Here’s what you need to know before opting for laser treatment for your skin

The effects of laser treatment–done safely under the guidance of licenced, trusted dermatologists–can help better your skin

It used to be a mainstay in most science fiction movies—lines of green, blue and red light that pierce armour and establish dominion over new species and planets and occasionally turned on humans and the earth too. Today, however, lasers can translate into lunchtime facials, and nobody is complaining. As far as skincare goes, the effects of a laser treatment–under the guidance of licenced and trusted dermatologists, of course–are far superior to what comes in a bottle, no matter how potent the formula and how rigorous your routine. From pigmentation to skin tightening, laser skincare is not only common in clinics across the country, it’s safe and getting more and more affordable.

“Laser is an acronym for Light Amplification by Stimulated Emission of Radiation,” says Dr Jaishree Sharad, incidentally on her way back from a seminar in Europe where she was speaking about laser skincare. “There are many lasers with various wavelengths and each wavelength has a specific target chromophore that it targets in the skin.” An author and one of the country’s foremost dermatologists, Sharad specialises in laser treatments at her clinic, Skinfiniti Aesthetic Skin and Laser Clinic. 

Dr Kiran Sethi, author of Skin Sense, which debuted earlier this year, has been enthusiastically vocal about laser treatments through her Instagram account. Her clinic, Isyaderm, uses laser treatments to treat “pores, texture, scars, wrinkles, lines”. “Lasers work on broken blood vessels, spider veins, varicose veins, freckles, birthmarks, stretch marks and vitiligo (UVB therapy). It also works on rosacea [a skin condition wherein the blood vessels on your face become visible]. As well as burn scars, and improve inflammation, so they can reduce rosacea or sensitivity.” 

What are the kinds of laser treatments? 

It’s great that laser treatment is no longer rocket science, but how do we pick a treatment, even if it is just for research? We know it treats pigmentation and lines effectively, but to get a slightly nuanced understanding, we need to go deeper. “There are ablative lasers that ablate (remove) superficial skin (Carbon dioxide and Erbium YAG laser),” says Dr Madhuri Agarwal, founder and medical director, Yavana Aesthetics Clinic. “It takes 7-10 days to recover. This can be used for skin rejuvenation, acne scars, traumatic raised scars and stretch marks. Non-ablative laser targets the dermis (mid-skin layer) and stimulates collagen (1550 Erbium laser, 1064 Qswitched laser,1450 Diode laser). It helps in skin rejuvenation and in reversing photodamaged skin. These, however, do not require downtime.

Fractional laser is an advanced technology, used in both ablative and non-ablative lasers. This technology is preferred in the case of Indian skin types because it delivers the laser or thermal energy on the skin in fractional columns, leaving the surrounding skin unimpacted. This reduces the risk of side-effects like burns and hyperpigmentation.” Then there is Intense pulsed light (IPL) used for hair reduction, rosacea or acne. High intense focused ultrasound (HIFU) goes deep into the skin, right up to the fat, and helps to tighten skin. It also reduces skin layer fat, enables in refining the jaw and reduces neck sagging. Radiofrequency machines stimulate collagen formation causing skin tightening. These treatments can be started as early as in your 30s for better effect, as aging might have commenced by then,” explains Agarwal. 

Do I qualify? 

Laser treatments can cost anything from a couple of thousand rupees to a lakh—depending on which kind of treatment your skin needs, what you want from it and your skin condition which determines how many sessions you will need. Anyone can opt for it, although Sethi says she will avoid giving it to those who aren’t regular sunblock users and who are frequently out in the sun. There are teenagers who opt for it, although all three dermatologists were clear that laser hair reduction amongst teenagers can–and should–only happen 2-4 years after puberty. “That is the amount of time that the HPA (hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal) axis needs to settle down, and by then the hormones are balanced so that the laser works,” says Sharad. Sethi adds that for young children, laser treatment can be recommended for removal of birthmarks. 

Reading the fine line 

None of the treatments are particularly painful, and some require no downtime at all, qualifying them as lunchtime facials. “Only the fractional VM laser is painful so we have to apply a numbing cream,” says Sharad. “The micro injury to the skin is really, really micro and the skin heals automatically. All laser treatments are colour-, light- and heat-related. As they are colour-specific—fairer the skin, safer the laser; darker the skin, you have to be more careful when it comes to sun exposure. Therefore it’s extremely important to protect your skin from sunlight, especially if you’re doing a resurfacing laser.”

As with all the delicious bits of life, too much is never a good idea. Likewise, too many sessions will make your skin more sensitive (defeating the purpose of getting the treatment in the first place). Your doctor will advise you on the frequency required, too. “Lasers for hyperpigmentation and resurfacing should be done once every 5-6 weeks. You have to allow the skin to heal. Doing it every two weeks is a very bad idea,” says Sharad. If you’re curious and cautious, Agarwal suggests, “Start gradually with a non-ablative laser. Do a patch test and always follow the instructions provided by the doctor (and no, do not try to be your own Google or Instagram doctor)!”

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