Rich in antioxidants and supporting collagen production, this natural ingredient is slowly making its way into skincare formulations
Lemon has, for a long time now, held on to the position of one among many skincare villains. From causing dryness to irritation and peeling skin, lemon is notorious for wreaking havoc on the skin, irrespective of the skin type, owing to its acidic nature. However, caviar lime has emerged as a more skin-friendly class of this otherwise potentially detrimental ingredient.
Since caviar lime is beneficial for your skin, its extract is gradually gaining momentum in skincare formulations. “It is rich in citric acid like the other members of the lemon family. The inner part of the fruit has multi-coloured caviar-like pearls, hence the name,” says Prachi Bhandari, co-founder and head of research and development at Aminu. While it might sound like it has something to do with fish, caviar lime is a fruit that also goes by the name ‘finger lime’. In addition to being edible, it is a natural ingredient becoming popular in the beauty world, especially in its native Australia, says Dr Niti Gaur, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Gurgaon-based Citrine Clinic.
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“The inner part of the fruit has multi-coloured caviar-like pearls, hence the name,” says Prachi Bhandari. Image: Instagram.com/barbereno_sb
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Along with AHAs, the extract is also rich in antioxidants, such as vitamin C, which can protect the skin from environmental damage and support collagen production. Image: Instagram.com/aminu.life
vWhat does caviar lime do for the skin?
The extract of the caviar-like pods inside the fruit is what goes into the making of skincare formulations. The caviar lime fruit, native to the sub-tropical rainforests of Australia, is cultivated by local growers who follow sustainable practices, informs Bhandari, based on her experiences with sourcing the ingredient. Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Niketa Sonavane mentions that the juice (or extract) of the fruit is loaded with skin-friendly properties. “Caviar lime extract is beneficial for the skin primarily due to its high content of alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), particularly citric acid,” she says. “AHAs are known for their exfoliating properties—they help slough away dead skin cells and promote a brighter, smoother complexion. The extract is also rich in antioxidants, such as vitamin C, which can protect the skin from environmental damage and support collagen production.”
Upon asking Bhandari why she decided to infuse caviar lime extract into three of Aminu’s products—Correcting Concentrate, Skin Perfecting Serum and Night Repair Cream—she shares that the ingredient’s ability to provide gentle exfoliation, and improve the skin tone and elasticity were key factors. “Several popular brightening solutions are known to use steroids or bleaching agents, which can be very damaging to the skin. It is important for us to deliver results without compromising skin health, and thus, use ingredients that allow us to formulate clean yet effective products.”
“THINK OF CAVIAR LIME AS THE NEXT-GEN NATURAL SOURCE OF AHA THAT IS HYDRATING AS WELL”
Prachi Bhandari
Since caviar lime boasts a medley of vitamin C and AHAs, it makes for a powerful brightening and collagen-boosting ingredient. But what makes it different from other AHAs is its ability to exfoliate the skin very gently with minimised, or perhaps, zilch irritation and skin barrier disruption. “Think of caviar lime as the next-gen natural source of AHA that is hydrating as well. It exfoliates the skin gently by acidifying keratinocytes and then by opening the TRPV3 channel that stimulates the desquamation process, which involves the shedding of old keratinocytes and the production of new keratinocytes. Simply put, it increases cell turnover,” explains Bhandari. “Increased cell turnover helps fade existing uneven or abnormally pigmented keratinocytes, resulting in an even, brighter skin tone. It is also an excellent antioxidant, protecting the skin by limiting free radical damage.”
Additionally, according to Gaur, caviar lime is being used in shampoos and conditioners, as it naturally exfoliates the scalp without stripping it of its natural oils. “It cleanses the scalp of dirt and impurities and provides hydration, making such products especially beneficial for coloured or damaged hair—be it from heat damage, over-processing or environmental factors.”
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Caviar lime can be beneficial for normal, dry, combination and mature skin, and particularly for those looking to improve skin texture and combat signs of ageing. Image: Instagram.com/koraorganics
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Avoid pairing caviar lime with topical ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and retinol as it can lead to excessive dryness and irritation, says Dr Niketa Sonavane. Image: www.flowerpower.com
What you need to know before making an investment
Given that caviar lime extract is multi-beneficial with negligible amounts of caveats, it is, by and large, well-tolerated by most skin types. “It can be beneficial for normal, dry, combination and mature skin, and particularly for those looking to improve skin texture, brightness and combat signs of ageing. However, individuals with sensitive skin should be cautious, as the potent AHA may cause irritation. Patch-testing is recommended for those with sensitive skin,” apprises Sonavane. To avoid possible dryness and irritation, look for products that combine caviar lime extract with nourishing ingredients.
It is then important to note the compatibility of the extract with other common skincare ingredients. “It pairs well with AHAs like glycolic acid or salicylic acid for enhanced exfoliation. Plus, it goes well with hyaluronic acid and ceramides, which help build the barrier and reduce the irritant potential of this ingredient,” suggests Sonavane. However, the skin expert recommends avoiding pairing caviar lime with topical ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and retinol as it can lead to excessive dryness and irritation.
“Caviar lime can be found in various moisturisers, serums, cleansers and peels. While creams, serums and cleansers can be used up to two times a day, it is recommended that masks and exfoliants containing the ingredient only be used once or twice a week,” concludes Gaur.
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