How the Indian salon experience has evolved over the years

From bleach being the solution to everything to five types of pedicures on a menu today, we’ve come a long way

A trip to the salon has been a significant part of the lives of most Indian women. The experience and frequency may be drastically different for each of us, but the joy of looking and feeling put together post a visit is the common factor. As young girls and women today embrace more of a ‘you-do-you’ philosophy, with no real rules when it comes to what you ‘should’ look like, four to five decades ago, women were almost always expected to be done up and appear presentable. 

Ask any woman around you and she will have a story to tell about what her first-ever salon experience was like—and in all likelihood, it will involve getting their eyebrows and upper lip threaded or their body waxed. 

Mumbai-based Neeta Chandhok’s first trip to the salon was when she was 16. “It was the first time my mother took me to a place called Queenie in a bungalow around Madhu Park in Khar in Mumbai, to do my eyebrows. I then started waxing, and at that time, it was more than enough. I’m 64 today, so this was 48 years ago. At that time, our mothers and aunts did not encourage us to do much to our skin. My mom said the moment you start fidgeting too much, you’ll start getting more problems.” 

Meanwhile, 52-year-old Preena Kohli found herself at a salon for the first time at the age of 15. “When I was young, our parents allowed us to get threading and waxing done only after the tenth  grade. So even though I had a unibrow and a full moustache, I had to wait till my board exams were over to get it done.” Once she started, she found herself at her local salon twice a month, getting her brows threaded, waxing every few weeks and signing up for manicures and pedicures.

The bleach phenomenon

When laser treatments and regular facials weren’t options, and threading and waxing was all you could do, bleaching became the norm, given the obsession with fair skin among most people. “Back then, we had a bleach called Jolen—it was a big thing for us because it wasn’t easily available,” says Chandhok. “If somebody was travelling from overseas and they got it for you, you were on top of the world.”

Kohli adds, “We were ardent believers of bleaching, which we don't opt for anymore because we’re educated and know its side-effects. In those days, bleaching was a very big thing because it was the only process that made you look ‘fresh’. Once a month, we would do a face and body bleach. Now it’s reduced because of options like laser treatments. Plus, for skin upkeep, you end up going to a dermatologist or cosmetologist instead.”

Beauty writer Tatiana Dias’ skin is on the darker side of the spectrum, which means she’s been sold bleach to her more times than she can count. “When I was 20, I didn’t get facials done at a salon because I had acne-prone and sensitive skin and I was consulting a dermatologist. Whenever I’d go for threading or other appointments, I’d get the usual ‘Bohut tan ho gaya hai skin. Ye wala bleach laga do.’ Your arms are a lot more tanned now. Why don’t you try this body pack?’” After much coercion, she finally gave in. “I tried it once when I was young and didn’t know better. Recently, I’d gone to wax my skin at the salon post a beach holiday and my skin was really tanned. I got the usual, ‘aap ye wax use kar lena, isse aap ka sara tan hutt jayega’. They always recommend products saying that if I use a particular treatment, my skin will become lighter by a shade or two. The idea is to sell skin-lightening treatments and products which they mask under de-tanning. As a teen and someone in my early 20s, I’d feel a lot more conscious about it but ever since I entered the beauty industry professionally, I don’t feel bad or insecure—I turn a deaf ear.”

The nostalgia and joy of salon trips

Chandhok describes her salon experience from four decades ago as a sense of royalty. “Now it’s become a part of routine life with parlours everywhere, but back then it was a big thing to get your hair washed and straightened, and apply nail polish,” she says. “I used to go with my sister-in-law who was almost like a sister to me and we used to get everything done together. For facials, I first used to go to a place called Blush Beauty Parlour and then to Dr. Jamuna Pai’s clinic.” 

While a lot of women may have built relationships with their salon technicians to discuss their own woes, Kohli enjoyed chatting with them about their concerns. “Eventually, you know all the girls by name, the managers, the owners, you become very comfortable and feel at ease because they know you as well. I used to love listening to their life stories like an agony aunt.”

For Samir Srivastav, the newly-appointed CEO of luxury salon chain Looks Salons, the customer is still queen. “We are seeing much higher levels of personalisation, an exposure to global trends, a very responsive and responsible approach to the customer’s beauty needs, especially in skincare towards Indian-origin and ingredient-focused products.” With 18 years of experience in building salons behind him, Srivastav sees the potential in international chains over local standalone salons. “They bring in scale. A customer base, geographical footprint, large number of skilled staff, an immediate ramp-up of a new launch and economics which make great sense to a brand partner entering India.”

The convenience of at-home services

After Chandhok had her son at the age of 26, she preferred staying home to look after him which meant her salon professionals started to come home, a trend that’s popular across India even today. She had a different lady for her nails, one for her waxing and threading, and another for her hair colour. “I still did everything because I wanted to be neat and groomed at all times. Chipped nail polish was a pet peeve for me so I made sure my nails were always well taken care of. Whether I had to go for a party, a kitty, an impromptu lunch or dinner, I didn’t have to worry because my grooming was in place.”

The industry today

“In the long run, salon chains will drive the business as they will bring in international brands due to their footprint and existing customer base,” believes Srivastav. “For example, Redken has chosen Looks Salons as a partner instead of a standalone salon. If there is a very specialised salon, boutique in nature, it could see a small segment provided if they offer a very unique menu of services.”

Kohli today trusts Placid Braganza at Placid Salon to colour and treat her hair, the only treatment she finds herself at the salon for. “Thirty years ago, hair straightening had just started and girls were doing it with an iron meant for clothes. Because of lack of tools and knowledge, hair colour meant bleaching your hair and applying mehendi over it. Over time, as products and technology have developed, parlours have upgraded too. The person who is doing your hair knows about hair. Placid understands the hair colour I want and tells me how to maintain it as well, a very personalised approach.”

Skincare may have been an oft-ignored category, especially when you hear of women in your family using bar soap and talcum powder on their faces, but there’s always been some women who painstakingly cared for their skin. Ancestral beauty tips weren’t born overnight. “One thing my mother taught me was that when you wash your face with hot water, you have to splash cold water at the end so that your pores are minimised and you don’t develop acne, which is something I do till date. After I became a mother, I didn’t have the time to follow too much of a routine, but I still continued to use my moisturiser and sunscreen. I’ve always been a fan of brands like La Prairie and La Mer. I’m bedridden today due to health concerns but still have friends and family visiting me who compliment me on how good my skin looks,” shares Chandhok.

Kohli adds, “Salon technicians will always try to push a treatment but you need to use your discretion and also factor in how much you trust them. When you trust the person, you’re convinced to try a service or product they recommend additionally. Back in the day, they would primarily insist on getting a scalp massage or a body massage, because that was the only add-on service.” The lesson here: Do the due diligence, find your trusted salon and wear sunscreen.

Also Read: Here’s what you need to know before opting for laser treatment for your skin

Also Read: Is semi-permanent hair colour the answer to reservations about experimentation?

Also Read: Have active-based skincare routines spelt the end for facials?