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In a market flooded with offerings, we ask the experts whether individual-ingredient products score more points over multi-ingredient ones.

How do you choose between single- or multi-ingredient skincare products?

In a market flooded with offerings, we ask the experts whether individual-ingredient products score more points over multi-ingredient ones

Given the rate at which new ingredients and products are hitting the skincare and haircare aisles, it is quite likely that your beauty-shopping expedition is no longer restricted to a couple of make-up brands or an all-in-one shelf housing cleansers, moisturisers and scrubs. The product category proliferations have been enormous, especially in the skincare sector. While that’s a rather commendable supply-oriented response to the augmented consumer awareness, and thereby demand, it’s fair to say that consumers could often end up feeling quite overwhelmed. 

What might be the ‘it’ solution to achieve healthier skin one day, could become outdated the next. For instance, when The Ordinary broke into the market with a chemical active ingredients-laden serum, not only did everyone discover the science-backed flipside of the rather taciturn beauty industry, but also befriended serums with hero active ingredients. However, the autocracy of the single-ingredient skincare  segment didn’t last too long. Consumers soon found themselves struggling with using the many single-ingredient bottles on their vanity correctly, paving the way for multi-active products. It’s not like a cream, toner or face wash never had more than one active ingredient before the surge in the consumption of beauty products. Now, however, such products could be marketed to more aware consumers by focusing on the ‘multi-active’ USP. 

Today, the skincare market is saturated with both single-ingredient and multi-active products. What should you be investing your money in, then? We ask three dermatologists and a cosmetic expert to help us make sense of this.

Multi-active products offer a comprehensive skincare approach and display synergistic effects to enhance efficacy. While they are  crafted to tackle many skincare concerns simultaneously, they carry a higher risk of irritation, says Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta. Image: Instagram.com/glowrecipe

Multi-active products offer a comprehensive skincare approach and display synergistic effects to enhance efficacy. While they are crafted to tackle many skincare concerns simultaneously, they carry a higher risk of irritation, says Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta. Image: Instagram.com/glowrecipe

When The Ordinary broke into the market with a chemical active ingredients-laden serum, not only did everyone discover the science-backed flipside of the rather taciturn beauty industry, but also befriended serums with hero active ingredients. Image: Pexels

When The Ordinary broke into the market with a chemical active ingredients-laden serum, not only did everyone discover the science-backed flipside of the rather taciturn beauty industry, but also befriended serums with hero active ingredients. Image: Pexels

Single-ingredient versus multi-active products

It’s not that abstruse to decipher the differing premises of single-ingredient and multi-active skincare products. While the Revitalift Hyaluronic Acid Serum from L’Oreal Paris and the Retinol 1% (in Squalane) serum from The Ordinary are examples of single-ingredient formulations, Hustle from d’you, the Active Serum from iS Clinical and Lotion P50 from Biologique Recherche are some of the popular multi-active concoctions. 

“Products with a single ingredient are more purpose-focused with a higher concentration of only that one active and are meant to be used for a specific concern without the interference of other actives. In short, it is used for targeted treatments,” says Dr Saloni Vora-Gala, cosmetic dermatologist and medical head at Dr Sheth’s Skin and Hair Clinics. In agreement with Vora-Gala, Mumbai-based Dr Madhuri Agarwal says, “It is easy to pick, say, salicylic acid for acne-prone skin, in the case of single-ingredient skincare. In fact, at times, it can be used in a higher concentration for the specific problem, making the application (of that active) more effective. Plus, such products are likely to be more free of irritants.” 

“IN TERMS OF BENEFITS, WE DON’T BELIEVE THAT ONE OUTWEIGHS THE OTHER WHEN COMPARING MULTI- AND SINGLE-INGREDIENT PRODUCTS, AS THIS REALLY COMES DOWN TO PERSONAL PREFERENCES OF WHAT AN INDIVIDUAL WOULD WANT OUT OF THEIR PRODUCTS AND HOW THEY CHOOSE TO ORGANISE A REGIMEN”

Prudvi Mohan Kaka

Prudvi Mohan Kaka, chief scientific officer at DECIEM, talks about how this format [of single-ingredient serums] benefits The Ordinary and its customers equally. “Isolating and utilising well-studied ingredients when drawing up single-ingredient formulas allows us to offer more affordable pricing on these kinds of serums,” he shares. Single-ingredient formulations are helpful in special cases like those with sensitive skin or during pregnancy, where certain other ingredients may be contra-indicated, apprises Vora-Gala.

On the other hand, multi-active products are like multitasking heroes, opines Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta, founder of ISAAC Luxe. “They offer a comprehensive skincare approach and display synergistic effects to enhance efficacy. While they are meticulously crafted to tackle an array of skincare concerns simultaneously, they carry a higher risk of irritation, especially for sensitive skin.” This multi-pathway approach is particularly helpful for complex skincare concerns, believes Mohan Kaka. Multi-active products can be a double-edged sword—while they make skincare simpler, quicker, and more effective and time-saving, they do come with a set of caveats that the user must be aware of in order to avoid any reactions or purging. 

“In terms of benefits, we don’t believe that one outweighs the other when comparing multi- and single-ingredient products, as this really comes down to personal preferences of what an individual would want out of their products and how they choose to organise a regimen,” cites Mohan Kaka. 

d'you's Hustle combines over 11 active ingredients to deliver a multi-faceted benefit portfolio and address various skin concerns. Image: Instagram/dyou.co

d'you's Hustle combines over 11 active ingredients to deliver a multi-faceted benefit portfolio and address various skin concerns. Image: Instagram/dyou.co

Paula's Choice is known for its science-backed formulations that are available in various ranges that focus on one key ingredient. Case in point: Vitamin. Image: Instagram.com/paulaschoice

Paula's Choice is known for its science-backed formulations that are available in various ranges that focus on one key ingredient. Case in point: Vitamin. Image: Instagram.com/paulaschoice

What do the experts recommend?

Make a choice based on the typical behaviour of your skin and the top-most concerns that you wish to address. “This selection is quite dependent on the personal preferences of the consumer. Some individuals enjoy taking their time to follow a multi-step skincare regimen involving various products. On the other hand, there are some who would like a quick and easy regimen with as few products as possible. They may prefer multi-ingredient products that address multiple concerns at once for simplicity,” says Mohan Kaka. “Additionally, if someone is beginning their journey with skincare or a new brand, multi-ingredient products can be a useful starting point.”

Vora-Gala recommends single-ingredient products for those who are pregnant, for skincare beginners or those who have been prescribed higher concentrations of actives to tackle a skin concern. “Higher concentration of an active can be used in the required manner without having to worry about the pH levels of different actives affecting the skin. Those with sensitive or allergy-prone skin usually prefer single-active products to avoid any skin irritation. Plus, products with single actives are helpful when one wants to layer ingredients,” says the skincare professional.

Dr Saloni Vora-Gala recommends single-ingredient products for those who are pregnant, for skincare beginners or those who have been prescribed higher concentrations of actives to tackle a skin concern. Image: Instagram.com/theordinary

Dr Saloni Vora-Gala recommends single-ingredient products for those who are pregnant, for skincare beginners or those who have been prescribed higher concentrations of actives to tackle a skin concern. Image: Instagram.com/theordinary

“When the skin is sensitive or has an active concern like acne, I recommend single-ingredient products. This ensures good resolution of the skin concern with fewer side effects. Once the problem is resolved, I recommend multi-active products,” says Dr Madhuri Agarwal. Image: Pexels

“When the skin is sensitive or has an active concern like acne, I recommend single-ingredient products. This ensures good resolution of the skin concern with fewer side effects. Once the problem is resolved, I recommend multi-active products,” says Dr Madhuri Agarwal. Image: Pexels

“As dermatologists, we usually treat active problems with a single ingredient and maintain [the skin] with multiple ingredients,” says Agarwal. If you plan to include a handful of single-ingredient products in your skincare routine, you might as well invest in one multi-active product as “using multiple layers of single ingredients can clog the pores; it can be time-consuming and not budget-friendly,” says the dermatologist. However, being able to thoroughly comprehend the ingredient label of multi-active products is essential to ensure you’re not exposing your skin to any ingredient that your skin is reactive towards. 

“When the skin is sensitive or has an active concern like acne, I recommend single-ingredient products. This ensures good resolution of the skin concern with fewer side effects. However, once the problem is resolved, I recommend multi-active products,” says Agarwal. “Remember, the right combination and formulation is very crucial in multiple-active products if you opt for them,” she concludes.

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