What makes turmeric a viable skincare ingredient in 2023?

Given the rising popularity of chemical active-laden skincare products, where does turmeric feature in a skincare routine?

The employment of kitchen staples in several beauty preparations in Indian households is an age-old practice. Preparing a lepa (handmade mask) using sandalwood and turmeric powder for glowing skin or making hair oil from scratch, simmered with curry leaves and hibiscus for luscious locks are rituals that have been passed down over generations. While the glossary of traditional Indian beauty ingredients is vast—and their efficacy and safety debatable—there are some that have science’s stamp of approval too. Case in point: turmeric.

Turmeric is deeply rooted in the many traditions of Indian culture—having a dedicated ceremony during most weddings is just one of them. Additionally, turmeric has come to the rescue if you end up with cuts, bruises or wounds. At a time when science-backed chemical active ingredients have taken centre stage in the beauty and cosmetics industry, we ask skincare experts to throw light on the merit of turmeric, and where it stands in this saturated market.

A host of holistic benefits

From being a worthy candidate for brightening the skin to being a nourishing companion to our meals and milk, the reasons for turmeric’s popularity are many. Nidhi Pandya, a third-generation Ayurvedic practitioner and wellness coach informs that turmeric is also known as ‘kanchani’ in Sanskrit—or ‘gold’—and lends a gold-like hue to the skin. “Turmeric has a vital place in our traditions for it is suitable for all three doshas and possesses anti-bacterial, antifungal and antiviral properties. Plus, it can help with removal of toxins in and on the skin.”

Dr Rachna Rastogi, head of research and development at 82°E, imputes turmeric’s benefits to curcumin, a bioactive compound known for its antioxidant properties and skin-enhancing properties. “The spice’s distinctive yellow colour stems from curcumin; it not only endows turmeric its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it effective in reducing skin inflammation, promoting an even skin tone and management of acne, but has also made it a staple in Ayurvedic remedies for centuries. It is a versatile remedy for both digestive and skincare issues,” says the cosmetic expert.

Meanwhile, Dr Niketa Sonavane, celebrity dermatologist and founder of Mumbai-based Ambrosia Aesthetics, says, “Turmeric reduces inflammation and combats free radical damage. It may also assist in managing conditions like psoriasis and eczema, thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties.” Along the same lines, Dr Saloni Vora-Gala, dermatologist and medical head at Dr Sheth’s Skin and Hair Clinics, points out that turmeric is also a potential solution for treating selected types of acne that don’t involve underlying conditions or causes. Lastly, it is also known to reduce the visible appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation, given that it is a rich source of antioxidants, primarily vitamin C.

Commercial versus DIY turmeric skincare 

There’s no doubt that turmeric has thrived as one of the most go-to beauty components in our households for years, albeit in the form of DIY recipes. Today, skincare brands across the globe have incorporated turmeric into their formulations. Whether it’s the Turmeric & Cranberry Seed Energizing Radiance Masque from Kiehl’s, Turmeric Glow Face Moisturiser from Kora Organics, Suvarna Haldi Chandan Face Pack from Kama Ayurveda or Turmeric Shield Serum Sunscreen by 82°E, brands are not only taking notice of the good old kitchen staple but also amalgamating it with modern actives like ceramides and vitamin C. What, in that case, takes home the trophy—at-home preparations or scientifically devised solutions? “DIY turmeric preparations offer cost-effectiveness and customisation; however, they may stain the skin,” begins Rastogi, “whereas skincare products with turmeric provide consistency, and most are dermatologically and clinically tested to ensure they suit all skin types.”

According to Elizabeth Isaac, founder of Gunam Beauty, both categories offer unique advantages. “While DIY turmeric masks offer the freshness of the ingredient directly on your skin, they can be messy, and there’s also a potential for staining your skin and/or clothes, which can be annoying. On the other hand, well-formulated skincare products with turmeric are designed for ease of use and optimal absorption, and often combine turmeric with other ingredients to amplify benefits.”

Turmeric in nature is more alkaline as compared to the pH of the skin. This may strip away the skin’s barrier and natural oils. As a result, side-effects such as redness, inflammation, flaking and dryness can occur; your skin might even break out, warns Vora-Gala. “In formulated products, the pH value of turmeric is balanced in a desired manner with other ingredients to suit the skin. Thus, it is comparatively safer to use turmeric-containing formulated skincare products rather than kitchen-made masks and pastes,” she advises.

Why do brands love turmeric?

Different brands include turmeric in different products to address different concerns. For instance, turmeric made it to the milky, serum-like sunscreen from 82°E since “it is a strong antioxidant, which provides added benefits in terms of protection by shielding the skin from the harmful effects of UV rays,” shares Rastogi. For Isaac, given the array of benefits that turmeric offers, it was a clear choice to incorporate it in the brand’s Multi-Correctional Face Oil. “We aimed to create a facial oil that not only moisturises but also addresses multiple skin concerns like inflammation, dark spots and oxidative stress. We partnered with a supplier whose turmeric-sourcing programme ensures the highest quality of produce,” says the founder, highlighting all the boxes that the spice checked. 

What’s an apt way to use turmeric? 

While a fail-proof turmeric and sandalwood, or gram flour, paste whipped with some honey and yoghurt isn’t likely to harm the skin, investing in a serum or moisturiser that provides your skin with a boost of antioxidants on a regular basis isn’t a bad idea either. “Turmeric is generally safe for most skin types. However, individuals with hypersensitivity or allergies to turmeric should exercise caution. A patch test is recommended before incorporating turmeric-based products into a skincare routine,” says Sonavane. 

Talking about the kind of raw turmeric as well as turmeric-infused products you should invest in, she suggests using organic turmeric powder, free from additives and contaminants, to make DIY masks. In the case of formulated skincare, various types of turmeric are used to harness their unique properties and cater to different skin needs. Organic turmeric, derived from Curcuma longa, found in most Indian kitchens, is a popular choice due to its purity and high curcumin content, offering potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. Wild turmeric (Kasturi Manjal) is another variety known for its exceptional skin-soothing properties and Curcuma Ambada (Amba haldi) is known in Ayurveda for its glow-imparting properties. “The selection of the type of turmeric depends on the specific skincare goals, whether it’s addressing inflammation, sensitivity, or enhancing the complexion,” affirms Sonavane. 

If you lean towards chemical active ingredients, you might want to exercise caution while using turmeric in the same beauty routine. While Vora-Gala is of the opinion that not just turmeric, but generally, the use of any DIY preparation should be avoided in combination with chemical active ingredients as “it may cause severe skin damage and allergic reactions,” Sonavane says it is possible to incorporate both DIY turmeric preparations and chemical active ingredients into a routine. “However, it’s essential to be cautious and avoid overloading the skin with multiple products that may have conflicting effects,” she shares. Alternatively, you could depend on formulated skincare products, especially for daily use, as they promise maximum benefits with minimum perils. “Nowadays, brands have come up with different formulations that combine turmeric with hydrating and repairing agents like hyaluronic acid, Centella Asiatica, ceramides, aloe vera, and neem, or brightening agents like niacinamide, licorice, and vitamin C, or anti-ageing agents like collagen peptides; however, it recommended to seek advice from a dermatologist,” concludes Vora-Gala.

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