We speak to the three beauty experts to establish DIY beauty’s status quo, and why it receives love and hate in equal measure
A quick online search on ‘DIY skincare’ and it is quite likely that your screen will be flooded with recipes, ingredients and hacks in under a second. Now, in that same search bar, type ‘Is DIY skincare bad?’ and innumerable articles and blogs spotlighting the perils of DIY beauty will also crop up. It is not just the Internet but the beauty industry also stands divided when it comes to DIY beauty.
If the influx of antithetical information online wasn’t enough to push beauty rookies into a quandary of confusion, several influential celebrities also endorse DIY beauty by sharing their go-to recipes and rituals on social media. Whether it’s Cardi B’s love for onion juice to cop thicker and healthier hair, Alaya F’s viral turmeric face pack, or raw milk’s utility for facial skin by the likes of Mira Kapoor and Shobhita Dhulipala, a host of celebrities are DIY-ing their way to better skin and hair using kitchen staples. Needless to say, when such figures, championing porcelain-like flawless skin and luxe hair, recommend something, fans are only likely to jump on the bandwagon. However, what happens next is nothing short of a mishap, given that everybody’s skin is unique and no two people will have the exact same experience with any DIY treatment. We speak to beauty experts who tell us how one can successfully navigate the touch-and-go phenomenon.
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Whipping up a face pack with multani mitti (Fuller’s Earth) or slathering cold yoghurt on the scalp are some DIY rituals that have always been a part of Ayurveda Image: Pexels
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“While DIY skincare can be a fun and creative way to take care of your skin, it's important to approach it with caution,” says Dr Aruna Purohit Image: Pexels
Practising DIY beauty isn’t the real villain
Whipping up a face pack with multani mitti (Fuller’s Earth) or slathering cold yoghurt on the scalp are some DIY rituals that have always been a part of Ayurveda, given how our mothers and grandmothers have endorsed it for years. Perhaps, DIY, as a concept, may not be worth all that criticism after all. “When done right, DIY beauty brings about a good transformation on your skin and it can easily be a great complementary practice along with your usual skincare routine,” says beauty editor and author of Glow: Indian Foods, Recipes and Rituals for Beauty, Inside and Out, Vasudha Rai, who believes your skincare consumption can be as diverse as the food you eat, with a mix of mainstream skincare, DIY rituals and some dermatologist-recommended treatments.
According to Dr Aruna Purohit, Ayurvedic consultant at Kama Ayurveda, DIY beauty has become increasingly popular over the years as people seek natural and inexpensive alternatives to commercial products. However, “while DIY skincare can be a fun and creative way to take care of your skin, it's important to approach it with caution,” she warns.
“When done right, DIY beauty brings about a good transformation on your skin and it can easily be a great complementary practice along with your usual skincare routine”
Vasudha Rai
Where does the trouble lie?
Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Madhuri Agarwal highlights that home remedies are not always scientifically proven. “Any DIY ritual shared by our ancestors is based on the benefits and quality of ingredients in their time. I am not a fan of DIY skin and hair care, especially when done without understanding its nitty-gritty and blindly following a trend,” says Agarwal, who also believes that one cannot expect any DIY treatment to treat all their skin conditions, especially problems like acne and melasma that require multi-level corrections.
For Purohit, one of the main reasons behind DIY’s bad reputation is that not all DIY skincare recipes are safe or effective enough. “There is a lot of misinformation online, and many people may be using ingredients that are not suitable for their skin type or could cause irritation or other adverse effects. In addition, the rise of DIY skincare has led to an increase in home remedies and hacks that are not backed by science or research.”
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My mother would swear by a lemon and malai mask for her face. However, I couldn’t get away with using it. I use a lot of honey on my skin, shares Vasudha Rai Image: Pexels
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It is the most popular DIY ingredient but can be harmful as it is acidic and can cause phytophotodermatitis, a skin reaction, reveals Dr Madhuri Agarwal Image: Pexels
On the same lines, Rai is of the opinion that DIY rituals have been subjected to condemnation because of certain recipes that put potent, irritation-stimulating ingredients like lemon, tomatoes and papaya into operation. “My mother would swear by a lemon and malai mask for her face. However, I couldn’t get away with using it. I use a lot of honey on my skin, but again, my closest friend is allergic to honey—it causes her pimples,” shares Rai, pointing out that the ingredient compatibility may vary from person to person.
Revisiting the fact that Ayurveda was suggestive of at-home DIY beauty treatments in a different day and age altogether, Purohit says, “While Ayurvedic texts do include recommendations for DIY skincare, it’s important to remember that the ingredients and methods recommended in these texts may not be appropriate for modern-day skincare concerns.” Agarwal adds that today, most foods are often loaded with pesticides, and dairy produce with hormones. However, aloe vera, white sandalwood and masks made of egg whites are fairly safer options to try out, reckons Rai.
Is there an ideal approach?
“As an Ayurvedic doctor, it is important for me to evaluate each individual case and determine whether DIY skincare is a safe and effective option for an individual’s specific skin type and concerns,” says Purohit. As mentioned earlier, DIY face masks are a categorical part of Rai’s beauty routine; however, she suggests opting for a patch test first, regardless of the ingredient you’re using, to rule out possible skin irritation or damage.
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Dr Aruna Purohit is a votary of oatmeal masks (she likes mixing up oatmeal with yoghurt or Kama Ayurveda’s Pure Rose Water), aloe vera gel, honey and a green tea toner (or green tea brewed in water) Image: Pexels
Agarwal suggests being wary of certain ingredients like lemon. “It is the most popular DIY ingredient but can be harmful as it is acidic and can cause phytophotodermatitis, a skin reaction. When applied on the skin after sun exposure, it can also lead to burns and further skin discolouration. Undiluted vinegar is another ingredient that causes severe damage by a chemical burn, irritation and loss of skin colour (chemical leucoderma) over repeated usage. Moreover, applying toothpaste on acne to treat it overnight irritate or burn the skin, leaving scars,” she says, enumerating the list of no-nos. In juxtaposition, “ingredients like honey, avocado oil, glycerin and banana can be used safely at home as they help in improving the hydration levels of your skin leaving it moisturised and supple,” she adds.
Talking about the mane’s equation with DIY rituals, Rai says, “Hair is a relatively safer place to kickstart your DIY journey. Ingredients like aloe vera, banana and lemon can be used. Considering the amount of heat that we put our hair through, DIY recipes definitely pass as a safe option to indulge in.” Agarwal, in subsequence, advises factoring in probable reactions, allergies and infections. Purohit is a votary of oatmeal masks (she likes mixing up oatmeal with yoghurt or Kama Ayurveda’s Pure Rose Water), aloe vera gel, honey and a green tea toner (or green tea brewed in water).
“Today, the market is chock-a-block with multiple products that beautifully blend traditional Ayurvedic ingredients with active ingredients, that offer effective results safely,” says Agarwal, hinting that you must, rather, rely on formulations that are lab-tested, stabilised and processed to suit the skin. “It’s important to be cautious when trying DIY beauty treatments and to consult with a skincare professional if you have any concerns or questions about the safety or effectiveness of a particular treatment,” concludes Purohit.
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