Why this anti-pigmentation ingredient should be on your skincare radar

Tranexamic acid serves as an effective antidote for everything from post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation caused by acne to melasma and pigmentation caused by sun exposure

As Indians, the downside to living in the tropics is pigmentation and tanning, which is why the skincare space is flooded with ingredients that claim to combat uneven skin tone and dark spots. Vitamin C, alpha arbutin, glycolic acid, and niacinamide are popular chemical active ingredients that promise a brighter and even-toned complexion by reducing pigmentation. But, tranexamic acid is a lesser-known ingredient that's equally (or more) efficacious in combating pigmentation. From the viral Topicals Faded Brightening and Clearing Serum to Paula’s Choice's Clinical Discolouration Repair Serum to SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense, some of the best anti-pigmentation skincare products champion tranexamic acid as a key ingredient. The ingredient has now become more mainstream than before — homegrown brands like d’you, Neemli Naturals, Deconstruct, Foxtale, Minimalist, FixDerma, and Dr Sheth’s have also incorporated tranexamic acid in products that address (hyper)pigmentation. A dermatologist gives us a primer on the ingredient and apprises us of its caveats.

What is tranexamic acid?

“Tranexamic acid, scientifically called trans-4-aminomethylcyclohexane-carboxylic acid, is a synthetic acid derived from the amino acid lysine,” says Mumbai-based dermatologist Dr Madhuri Agarwal, who is also the founder of Yavana Aesthetics. Tranexamic acid’s antifibrinolytic action ingredient has been used during surgeries and to smoke excessive bleeding during a heavy period. “In 1979, it was discovered by a medical professional that the ingredient could also lighten skin pigmentation. It's been used to treat hyperpigmentation disorders ever since.”

Tranexamic acid is safer and a potent alternative to hydroquinone, a skin-whitening ingredient that comes with its cons. “There aren't many options when it comes to safe, effective skin-lightening bioactives,” said clean cosmetic chemist and founder of KKT Consultants Krupa Koestline in an interview with InStyle. “Hydroquinone is banned in Europe and restricted in many other countries due to its safety concerns. Tranexamic acid has shown promising evidence as a plasmin inhibitor, and therefore, an effective treatment for UV-induced discolouration, dark spots and redness.”

The science behind it

How does tranexamic acid break down pigmentation and curtail discolouration? “It does the job by obstructing the interactivity of keratinocytes—surface skin cells with the melanin-producing cells in the epidermis (uppermost layer of the skin). This, in turn, reduces melanin in the skin and helps even skin tone,” says Agarwal. The ingredient is ideal for Indian skin, rich in melanin, and can be used as an alternative to vitamin C. Agarwal elaborates on its benefits, “It helps to lighten dark spots, hyperpigmentation, melasma and acne scars. It can be topically used during pregnancy too, whereas other ingredients are not generally pregnancy-safe. It is also an anti-inflammatory and can also be used to calm down the redness if you suffer from rosacea.”

The topical versus ingestible debate

Tranexamic acid is available for purchase as supplements, medicines, creams, and serums that can be used topically on the skin. Just like any other ingredient, it can be ingested. It is a superior ingestible because Agarwal believes “it is a versatile ingredient that can help with stubborn melasma and dark spots, even in males, when consumed orally.” 

Dr Shari Marchbein, a New York Board-certified dermatologist, in an interview with InStyle, said: “Ingesting it orally is effective in treating melasma as opposed to using it in its topical form, or via serums and other products with the ingredient.” However, ingesting tranexamic acid orally must only be done in consultation with a dermatologist “as it can have side-effects such as abdominal pain, nausea and headache,” says Agarwal. “It should be given with caution to smokers and those on oral birth control pills as it can increase the chance of blood clots.”

The do’s and don’ts

While the ingredient is sold through high-performing serums, creams, and essences, shop for a product with no more than five per cent and no less than three per cent of tranexamic acid, recommends Agarwal. Also, like other acids, this is known to trigger potential irritation and redness, so it is better to run the products you plan to invest in by your dermatologist. It is pertinent to note that tranexamic acid is compatible with most ingredients, including retinol, vitamin C, arbutin, and other brightening ingredients. 

Agarwal also recommends only using the ingredients by individuals with sensitive, allergic, eczema-prone skin types. It can be used across all age groups; there are no age criteria for topical use,” says Agarwal. “It is best to start using the ingredient as a serum or cream. Start with gradual inclusion in your nighttime routine; always use it on dry skin after washing your face, and then apply moisturiser to avoid irritation or dryness. Don’t also forget to layer sunscreen if you use tranexamic acid during the day,” she says.

Our favourite tranexamic acid products:

1. Discoloration Defense, SkinCeuticals

2. Brighten Up 3% TXA Dark Spot Toner, Farmacy

3. Even and Correct Dark Spot Cream, SkinMedica

4. Bright Eye Hydrating Mask, Joanna Vargas

5. Tranexamic Acid Serum, The Inkey List

6. Replenishing Multi Acid Peel, Murad

7. 3% Tranexamic Face Serum, Minimalist

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