Does your skin respond to serums better when damp?

Skincare experts have vouched for the benefits of applying serum on damp skin once it is cleansed. But what is the quantum of change that this step can bring about?

Have you ever used a skincare product—a serum, in particular—for months, only to be dismayed, because you didn’t get the results you were expecting, or the product claimed to deliver? You’re likely to then conclude that the product isn’t good enough. However, did you ever consider that the problem could, perhaps, lie in the technique of its application? 

Just like using a gua sha might support deeper and accelerated absorption of the facial oil or serum, or cleansing before applying your skincare ensures better delivery of the product, similarly, applying your facial serum more thoughtfully can make a difference. Skincare experts have vouched for the benefits of applying serum on damp skin, after cleansing it. But what is the quantum of change that this step can bring about? We ask three skincare professionals who break down the logic behind this step for us.

What makes damp skin more predisposed to skincare?

“The idea of dampening the skin before applying serum is rooted in the belief that moisture helps enhance the absorption of products,” says Dr Manasi Shirolikar, dermatologist and founder of online consulting clinic drmanasiskin.com. “Damp skin is thought to have increased permeability, allowing active ingredients to penetrate more effectively.” Think of damp skin to function like a sponge—your skin (and the pores) become more receptive to serums that will be applied on top of it.

Along the same lines, Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta, aesthetician and founder of ISAAC Luxe, says that dampening your skin may help boost absorption of especially humectants, as this category of ingredients specifically attracts water to themselves and the skin when applied. “Additionally, occlusive ingredients like petroleum jelly and beeswax might seal moisture out if applied to dry skin,” she says. 

New Delhi-based celebrity dermatologist and founder of Isya Aesthetics, Dr Kiran Sethi points out that this step is highly compatible with water-soluble ingredients versus oil-soluble ingredients. “Damp skin is thought to have slightly more permeable cell layers, allowing water-soluble ingredients in the serum to penetrate more effectively. The water on the skin’s surface could create a gradient that pulls the serum’s ingredients into the skin,” she says. Additionally, Shirolikar says, “Hydrated skin promotes the opening of intercellular channels, facilitating the passage of molecules into the deeper layers where they can have the most impact.”

Is damp skin then non-negotiable?

There’s no straightforward answer to this—the necessity of this step can be very subjective, based on one’s skin type and requirements, believes Sethi. “Even though dampening the skin before applying a serum is recommended by many skincare experts, its effectiveness can vary from person to person; some find it beneficial, while others might not notice a significant difference. It’s not an absolute necessity but could be a useful step. It’s a matter of potentially increasing the effectiveness of the product, not necessarily making it ineffective when applied to dry skin,” she explains. 

What is the best way to apply your serum?

First things first, choose the right serum for your skin. If you are struggling with acne, opting for a ceramide-heavy serum defeats the purpose. Understand your top skin concerns, know your ingredients and then choose a product according to the results of your analysis. While the benefits of damp skin have been established, dampening your skin in the right manner is also paramount.

“Oversoaking the skin with excessive water can dilute the serum or using toners containing high levels of alcohol can disrupt the skin’s natural balance and hinder absorption,” says Shirolikar, pointing out how it can counteract when done incorrectly. “You can dampen your skin with a gentle mist of water or a hydrating toner. The goal is to have a slightly damp surface without excessive moisture, so pat your skin with a towel if it’s too wet,” recommends Sethi.

Before spritzing a mist, it’s essential to factor in the ingredients of your facial spray as well as the serum and make sure they don’t make the potency of each other redundant. “Compatibility is key. Ingredients in the mist and serum should complement each other. Water-based mists are generally safe, but for serums, it’s crucial to consider potential interactions,” says Shirolikar. “If they have conflicting pH levels or ingredients that might interact negatively, it could affect the efficacy of both products,” adds Sethi.

According to Mittal Gupta, while dampening your skin as a precursor to serum application does help, over-applying certain potently-concentrated serums may make your skin over-sensitive, and lead to excessive dryness in the epidermis. “It is best to opt for dermatologist-approved formulas to avoid harsh, sensitising ingredients, and use potent anti-ageing or exfoliating serums 2-3 times per week,” she advises. 

“While damp skin can potentially boost serum absorption, it’s only one piece of the skincare puzzle. Focus on choosing the right serum for your skin concerns and consult a dermatologist for personalised advice. Skincare should be thoughtful and tailored to individual needs,” says Shirolikar.

Also Read: Are capsule serums worth the hype?

Also Read: Will 2023 mark the end of hyaluronic acid serum’s hype?

Also Read: Do you really need a serum in your skincare routine?