Are capsule serums worth the hype?

Active ingredient-packed serums are now being offered as single-use capsules by brands. Does microdosing stand a chance against a usual serum in a bottle?

Not too long ago, owning a bottle of serum was out of the ordinary for most of us due to lack of awareness, accessibility and availability. Cut to today, from niacinamide to hyaluronic acids and salicylic acid, our vanities are chock-a-block with serums boasting every up-and-coming ingredient in addition to the many toners, essences, moisturisers, and sleeping masks. As the accessibility to skincare ingredients keeps mushrooming, our serum collection has also expanded considerably.There is a new candidate that is making its way up to this list—capsule serums. While you may have picked up a myriad of serum bottles to date, your favourite active ingredient also comes in a capsule-like pod now for single-time and single-dose use. 

We speak to dermatologists and brands that offer capsule serums to give us a lowdown on the product.

What are capsule serums?

“Capsule serums are a type of skincare product where the active ingredients are contained within individual capsules usually made of a biocompatible material, such as gelatin or a plant-based polymer. When you use a capsule serum, you typically break open the capsule to release the product before applying it to your skin,” says Delhi-based dermatologist Dr Kiran Sethi. A spokesperson at UK-based cosmetic surgeon and skin specialist Dr Maryam Zamani’s award-winning brand MZ Skin informs that the capsule serum passes as an efficient mode of delivery for sensitive or unstable ingredients like vitamin C and retinol. “When those ingredients are exposed to light and air, they can swiftly lose their potency, but capsules provide a sort of safe house for them. On top of that, they prevent users from going overboard on products/ingredients by providing a controlled dose for the consumer,” shares the brand’s spokesperson.

How are they different from bottled serums?

“Realising that serums get affected over time by exposure to light and other environmental factors if not sealed properly and knowing that the efficacy and performance of the capsules would reduce as a result, lead us to think of sealed capsules,” says a spokesperson of Elizabeth Arden. “Moreover, each capsule contains exactly the right amount, taking the guesswork out of skincare, so there’s no wastage and it is easier to carry and travel with.” 

Corroborating what the brands are claiming, Sethi says, “The main difference between capsule serums and traditional serums in bottles is the encapsulation of the active ingredients. The capsules help protect the ingredients from degradation and oxidation, keeping them stable and potent until they are ready to be used.” Capsule serums basically promote ‘portion control’ with respect to the topical consumption of active ingredients.

Additionally, through capsule serums, one can experience the active ingredients in the most potent and purest form, given that the microdoses allow for augmenting the concentration of ingredients. “They’re made to deliver efficacy, purity, potency, and ease of use with the right dosage (mono-dose delivery) and a specific amount per use/capsule. Our capsules contain waterless formulas, made using 100 per cent vegetable- and mineral-based materials that degrade back into the environment,” says Elizabeth Arden’s spokesperson. 

Along the same lines, Anubhi Khera, head educator at Maison De Beauté, talks about Eve Lom’s cleansing oil which is also available in a capsule format. “Since they come in compact and precise packaging, they are not only perfect for travel and on-the-go use, but also help you determine exactly how much product to use. Each capsule is perfectly portioned for single use. However, two can be used for a deeper cleanse which is the perfect double cleanse with the cleansing oil,” says Khera.

Should you be investing in capsule serums?

Capsule serums indefinitely come with a promise of enhanced efficaciousness which means faster and better results. “After using our Advanced Ceramide Capsules Daily Youth Restoring Serum, 95 per cent of the users demonstrated a significant improvement in visible firmness within two weeks; the Retinol Ceramide Capsules Line Erasing Night Serum, which is 76 per cent more potent than retinol that is not encapsulated, leaving 94 per cent of the users with smoother skin. The post-use effects of the vitamin C and hyaluronic acid serums were promising too,” shares Elizabeth Arden’s spokesperson.

Capsule serums can generally be used by anyone looking to incorporate targeted skincare ingredients into their routine, opines Sethi. “They can be particularly beneficial for individuals with specific skin concerns such as dryness, dehydration, or compromised skin barrier function. However, it’s always a good idea to check the product’s instructions and consult with a dermatologist or a skincare professional to determine if a capsule serum is suitable for your skin type and condition.” The dermatologist does believe that the capsule packaging element can be more than just a feel-good factor. “It can contribute to the product’s overall effectiveness and provide a unique and luxurious skincare experience,” she concludes.

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