Hair growth products promise a lot. Here’s what they actually deliver

In India, thick, long, black hair has largely held cultural weight. Yet over half the population continues to grapple with significant hair fall and thinning. The rise of science-backed hair growth products—serums, foams, and treatments promising follicular revival—has replaced the old guard of commercialised Ayurvedic quick fixes. Despite billions of views under #hairgrowth on social media and a surge in product launches, the question remains: How far can these solutions go? 

How the market for hair growth products has been proliferating

From rosemary-infused solutions and dermarolling tools to mutli-peptide hair growth serums and active-rich leave-ins, the hair growth products market has  been churning out products with new formulas at a relentless pace, each promising stronger actives and better results. Even supplements, once firmly prescribed by dermatologists or trichologists only, are now sold over the counter and consumed at will. The global market, valued at $7.73 billion in 2023, is projected to reach $11.58 billion by 2030. In India alone, the market is poised to triple in size within the same period. 

What has shifted, however, is the language employed by brands. Every hair growth product—including Ayurvedic ones—now leans heavily on science-speak to appeal to a younger, more discerning audience. Transparency, data, and clinical claims have become the new currency.  At the same time, several in-office hair care treatments have been democratised on social media. From platelet-rich plasma (PRP) to exosome therapy and hair transplants, younger individuals are signing up for such procedures as both preventive and reparative measures, often alongside their roster of hair growth serums. 

The science behind popular hair growth serums

The hair growth products market is flooded with options, but not every viral drop promises legitimacy. Every ingredient and format follows a different mechanism to target hair loss treatment and offer hair thinning solutions. 

“Topical serums, oils, and foams are carefully formulated to ensure optimal transdermal delivery of active ingredients,” says celebrity dermatologist Dr Jaishree Sharad. “They commonly use alcohol-based or liposomal vehicles to enhance penetration through the scalp barrier, while humectants like glycerin and hyaluronic acid help maintain scalp hydration. Antioxidants such as niacinamide and tocopherol protect against oxidative damage, and supportive actives like caffeine, peptides, vitamins, and botanical extracts boost follicular stimulation.”

While most trending hair growth products thrive on exaggerated claims, several  key ingredients are backed up by scientific evidence—including caffeine, amino acids, redensyl, or minoxidil for hair growth.

Achieving effective delivery of active ingredients to hair follicles depends on pH,  penetration enhancers, and advanced delivery systems, notes Dr Madhuri Agarwal, dermatologist and founder, Yavana Aesthetics. “Most commercial formulations incorporate multiple mechanisms. For instance, vasodilators like minoxidil to increase blood flow, biotin to enhance hair strength, peptides to strengthen hair follicles, DHT blockers to address hormonally driven hair loss by inhibiting the conversion of testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT), anti-inflammatories to mitigate scalp inflammation, and stem cell activators such as redensyl, peptides, and exosomes to reactivate dormant follicles or extend the anagen (growth) phase by directly signalling follicular cells.”

This layered approach attempts to tackle the causes behind hair fall, but its success ultimately depends on biology, consistency, and the correct diagnosis—not just the serum alone.

The limits of topical hair loss products 

Despite a sheer number of hair growth products on shelves today, consumers aren’t satisfied. Brands foreground clinical claims and jargon-heavy studies, but the caveats rarely make it to the label. For any topical hair growth product to work, an efficacious formulation is only one part of the equation. The outcome is shaped by deeply individual factors such as genetics, hormonal shifts, nutrient deficiencies, prior hair colour and treatments, autoimmune diseases, and overall scalp health—all of which determine the response to the product. 

Topical solutions also come with structural limitations, more so in cosmetic-forward formulas that lack medical grade rigour. “Their follicular penetration is often poor, reducing the delivery of active ingredients to target cells,” informs Sharad. “They require consistent and prolonged application, as discontinuation commonly leads to reversal of gains.” They also do only so much when the root cause of hair loss hasn’t been identified correctly. “The efficacy in addressing deeper, systemic causes such as hormonal, autoimmune, or nutritional imbalances is limited,” adds Sharad. Moreover, she also alerts users to be wary of scalp irritation and sensitivity. “Most importantly, they cannot revive scarred or permanently damaged follicles.”

“SERUMS WITH HARSH INGREDIENTS AND EXAGGERATED CLAIMS MAY NOT DO THE JOB” –– Dr Madhuri Agarwal 

If the scalp is already inflamed or compromised, results are further diminished, and are sometimes counterproductive. “Treating scalp conditions such as severe seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, or fungal infections before using any hair growth products is key since applying serums/oils to an already inflamed scalp can exacerbate issues,” says Agarwal.

Labels can also mislead. “Many products are formulated only with extracts, not actual botanicals in meaningful doses, thereby restricting their effiacy,” notes beauty creator and educator, Nipur Kapur Sohal. Agarwal agrees, adding that formulations often underperform when the active ingredient is overdiluted, unstable, unable to penetrate, or simply unsuitable for the individual's specific pattern of hair fall. With hair thinning solutions varying widely across causes and symptoms, personalised intervention, not generic serums, become essential. 

Are hair growth products overhyped or misunderstood?

Kapur Sohal, who has tested several hair growth products, doesn’t believe the entire category is a sham. “I’ve seen meaningful results from two categories: growth serums and high-quality hair oils. I prefer oils and serums where the base oils are unrefined and the actives are present in functional concentrations, not just extracts listed for marketing. Smaller, niche brands often get this right because they focus on formulation quality rather than mass-production economics.” 

The grey zone appears when brands lean on the word ‘natural’ to sell credibility. “These sound natural in marketing talk, but don’t have the phytochemical load to be effective. In many cases, the base is just petroleum-derived mineral oils with fragrance and colour,” she adds. 

It’s also important to understand that not all hair growth products fall into the same bucket. Results vary significantly depending on the treatment category and underlying cause of hair thinning, adds Sharad. “Among pharmacologic options, minoxidil remains the most effective topical agent, yielding a 20–40 per cent increase in hair density within 3–6 months. Peptide complexes like Redensyl and Procapil demonstrate 10–20 per cent improvement over 3–4 months, while nutritional therapies such as biotin and cyclical supplementation provide supportive benefits within 2–3 months, particularly when deficiencies exist,”she explains. 

Topical products can offer a 10–25 per cent improvement in mild-to-moderate cases—early AGA, telogen effluvium, or stress-induced shedding—but they have limited impact on scarring alopecia, autoimmune causes, or advanced baldness, notes Sharad. On the contrary, “serums with harsh ingredients and exaggerated claims may not do the job,” warns Agarwal. 

Essentially, not all hair growth products are snake oil, but most call for realistic expectations. Historically, the category has amplified insecurities through pseudoscience; today hype performs the same function. Is quick-fix language then the real scam? “Hair loss is emotional, and companies exploit it with vague scientific jargon, altered before-and-after photos, and photoshopped celebrity endorsements. Remember: most hair growth serums are just cosmetics with looser standards than drugs,” says Agarwal. 

Dermatologist-backed ways to treat hair fall 

Addressing hair fall requires a genuinely holistic strategy; hair care routine, a balanced diet, adequate sleep, supplementation and  physical activity—all factors that influence follicular health. “Hair fall is rarely a superficial problem; no topical product alone can fix that,” says Saloni Anand, founder of Traya, a company that focuses on hair and scalp health.

Effective hair restoration begins with everyday behaviour. “A well-balanced diet combining micronutrition along with macronutrition alleviates deficiencies. Junk, fried, and processed foods can increase the free radical damage in the hair follicle environment, thereby slowing down new growth. Uninterrupted sleep at the right time (body circadian rhythm) reduces physical stress and fatigue and improves the growing phase of hair,” says Agarwal. Diagnosis  forms the other half of the equation. “Getting diagnosed—whether the condition is androgenetic alopecia, telogen effluvium, or another form of hair loss through laboratory evaluation, including ferritin, vitamin D, B12, and thyroid profile—helps identify underlying deficiencies,” says Sharad. 

Sharad emphasises that scalp health shapes outcomes just as much as treatment. Gentle cleansing, timely dandruff management, and minimising chemical or heat styling help maintain a stable environment for regrowth. Lifestyle habits matter too. “Tobacco use and excessive alcohol consumption can exacerbate oxidative stress, reduce nutrient absorption, and impair circulation to the scalp, aggravating hair fall. Moderation or cessation is strongly advised.”

“HAIR FALL IS RARELY A SUPERFICIAL PROBLEM; NO TOPICAL PRODUCT ALONE CAN FIX THAT” –– Saloni Anand

Rather than choosing between in-clinic therapies, topical solutions or ingestible supplements, experts recommend a personalised plan tailored to both the scalp and the root cause. “Oral supplements address systemic deficiencies, while in-office procedures are potent but come at a cost. On the other hand, topicals are affordable and convenient but less effective,” says Agarwal, underscoring the need for combination care. 

Ultimately, biology—not just chemistry—determines success. Hair growth products may support the process, but they cannot correct underlying triggers alone.. A more sustainable solution for hair fall? Address the root cause first, then build a long-term maintenance routine that aligns with your body, and not just your bathroom shelf.