Is scalp care the new hair care?

With a slew of beauty brands venturing into product innovations for the scalp, we find out what propelled the buildout of scalp care and what lies in store for the space

Walk into the clinic of any trichologist or get seated in any hairstylist’s chair, the first course of action ought to be a scalp check. Your scalp is a reflection of your hair’s holistic health; more often than not, that’s where the problem germinates and transpires and that’s also what gives you hints to chalk out a treatment plan. It is then fair to say that the explosion of scalp care is way past time.

However, today, the space is thriving with classic and nascent beauty brands presenting a variety of scalp care-only products such as serums, scrubs, masks and oils. While conventionally skincare-first brands like The Ordinary, Drunk Elephant and Sunday Riley, and closer home, The Minimalist and Daughter Earth, have tapped hair care , a foresighted set of brands like BREAD Beauty, Jupiter, Fable & Mane, and Virtue inaugurated on the very basis of hair—and subsequently scalp—care.  

What’s behind scalp care’s explosion? 

About a decade or so ago, hair oil, shampoo and conditioner were staples for most of us. But we were fairly alienated from the world of scalp care. Besides hair oiling or champi, a significant part of our traditional beauty rituals, that one could work in any other product on the scalp was unheard of. However, over the last few years, new brands have catapulted the scalp care movement and cult brands like Aveda, Briogeo and Kérastase have followed suit. Today, the global scalp care market is enjoying a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 4.02 per cent; it is expected to grow from around $12 billion in 2021 to $16 billion in 2028, according to a report. The same report also revealed that India is amongst the top three countries to contribute to the global scalp care market’s revenue. 

Traditionally, there wasn’t a huge availability of scalp care products to begin with, and even if some products were created, “they were (and are) more often overlooked as hair care products are more popular and highly-marketed,” says Sharad. “People were also less inclined to talk about scalp issues, leading to lesser attention given to the topic.”

Today, it’s barely anything like it used to be. Melissa Hughe, national technical director, Schwarzkopf Professional, considers the ‘skinification’ of hair care to be a leading cause of scalp care’s explosion. “The whole narrative of scalp care has been driven by clinical, pharmacy/medical-like formats which make it seem a little arduous to decipher. But consumers are now keen to invest in routines and ingredients that boost overall scalp health. There is an increased awareness allowing consumers to perceive scalp care from a problem-driven approach to a benefit-driven approach,” says Hughe. As a result, brands have also risen up to the occasion with compelling stories backed by hardworking ingredients and regimes. 

Musaddiq Merchant, managing director of Fashion Identity, the official distributor of Nashi Argan in India, has a different opinion. He presumes that India has known the importance of scalp care for years. “It seems like the rest of the world is just catching on. This boom has come after international brands have recognised the gap in the market in order to understand how scalp health can directly affect hair health. It has almost become trendy and cool to take care of your hair, skin and physical well-being as opposed to a time when doing the bare minimum was also considered too much. It also has a lot to do with accessibility to information and research from across the globe being easily available. Communities are now sharing their secrets and hair hacks through digital platforms like TikTok and Instagram reels which have impacted Gen Z, the major drivers behind this change.”

Scalp care: A matter of interest 

According to Dr Jaishree Sharad, Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist and author of The Skincare Answer Book, caring for the scalp is essential. “The hair follicles are located on the scalp, and require proper nourishment and care to produce luscious hair. A healthy scalp promotes hair growth, and prevents hair thinning and hair loss.” Enumerating rituals that are statutory for the scalp, she names regular exfoliation, cleansing and moisturising for maintaining hair health. “Neglecting the scalp can lead to various problems such as dandruff, itching and inflammation, which can affect the hair’s health and appearance,” adds Sharad.  

In concurrence with the dermatologist, Hughes shares that the scalp’s skin is delicate. It has a high number of sebaceous glands and low barrier function, and hence it is imperative to pay attention to it. “The scalp forms the core of your hair and if not taken care of, it can lead to thinning of hair, premature hair loss or bumps on the scalp. Some people also experience extremely dry scalp or an excessively oily scalp which can lead to dandruff or flakiness.” Sharad warns that things can go out of control sooner than you think, should you fail to address the needs of your scalp in time. “In case of improper scalp care, it can lead to detrimental infections like fungal infection tinea capitis or bacterial infection (scalp acne), head lice, seborrheic dermatitis and psoriasis.”

Simplifying scalp care

“One should look out for scientifically backed care products which are free from all nasties with powerful ingredients,” advises Hughes. “For someone who isn't looking for products, they can opt for scalp stimulations with the right scrubs, rituals and massages,” she adds. Sharad says, “Glycolic acid can help to improve flakiness and reduce oil on the scalp—two major contributors of greasy hair. It enhances your hair’s manageability by conditioning, moisturising, cleansing pores, maintaining balanced oil production, preventing hair breakage and detangling hair; so look for shampoos that contain this AHA.”

Meanwhile Merchant talks about Nashi’s Armonia Range, a great solution for a dry and irritated scalp. He shares that the products, including a scalp scrub, are formulated with salicylic acid, which encourages cell renewal; pomegranate extract, which helps combat bacteria proliferation and restores skin balance; Japanese pepper extracts, that act as a powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory; and Golden Calla Lily extracts that help with skin sebum clearing and enlarged pores. According to Sharad, micellar-infused shampoos (that employ tiny micelles), salicylic acid, zinc pyrithione (a powerful antidote for dandruff), tea tree oil, scalp massagers and probiotics (to rebalance the microbiome of the scalp) are some of the key technologies and ingredients in the scalp care space.

“For daily scalp care, the most important step is to use a gentle cleanser that doesn’t dry out the skin. If the skin of the scalp looks dry and flaky, hydrating it should be the next step, through the use of scalp-specific products that prodive moisturisation without weighing down the hair,” mentions Prudvi Kaka, chief scientific officer, The Ordinary. He recommends products like the Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA for Scalp and the Multi-Peptide Hair Density Serum from the brand that combine potent ingredients in a gentle formula. 

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