Do gold, pearls and silver in skincare formulations really benefit your skin?

The idea of creams and serums supercharged with precious elements like gold, pearls and silver may sound luxurious, but what do they do for your skin? 

While precious metals and stones find place in the jewellery in our closets, what if we told you that these exquisite materials also make for skincare ingredients with consummate potential? Skincare formulations infused with 24-carat gold, crushed silver, pulverised rubies and similar components are becoming popular by the day. Such products may remind you of the omnipresent metaphor, ‘gold-like radiance’; however, there’s more merit to these formulations than you think. 

Gold bhasma (ash) has been a prominent ingredient in Ayurvedic beauty recipes since centuries; in another part of the world, Egyptian queens like Cleopatra would go to bed with a veil of sleeping mask that comprised specks of gold, to wake up exuding an innate glow. Today, just the global gold-infused skincare market, valued at US$3412.3 million in 2022, is poised to touch a revenue of US$14,238.9 million by 2023, at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 15.4 per cent—this excludes other metals and stones, that haven’t been extensively explored yet. So, what exactly makes concoctions infused with precious metals covetable? Brands formulating such products share their inspiration while dermatologists explain the science behind it.

Why do brands bank on precious metals and gemstones?

Pearls are a common ingredient in Tatcha’s Silk Canvas primer and clé de peau’s $330 Wrinkle Smoothing Serum. Meanwhile,  you’ll find gold in a plethora of facial serums, creams oils—the 24k Radiance Face Oil from RAS Luxury, Pure Gold Radiance Nocturnal Balm from La Prairie and Rose Gold Illuminating Eye Mask from 111Skin are just a few examples. Other metals and gemstones like copper, silver and rubies are making their way into cosmetic formulations. While the idea of applying a pure gold-infused product on the skin does sound luxurious and indulgent, there’s more to such formulations that make beauty brands bet on it.

Elaborating on the benefits of gold, Dr Taruna Yadav, senior Ayurvedic doctor at Forest Essentials, says that it is a renowned yogavahi metal (Vatadosha or one that has both Kapha and Pitta qualities) that easily absorbs into the skin, protecting it from the sun and environmental damage, improving its elasticity and working as an extremely powerful age-defying agent. “It acts as a carrier and penetrates to the deepest layer of the skin, giving it a warm sheen; it is cooling for its potency and gives the skin a luminous quality. It also balances, harmonises, tones muscles, and strengthens the underlying tissue.” 

Nikita Sharma, marketing manager of homegrown skincare brand Lisèn, talks about the brand’s Timeless Elegance serum that is bottled in translucent packaging, exhibiting the infusion of gold evidently. “We have used a minimal quantity of gold in our serum—less than 0.2 per cent, to be particular—to enhance the penetration of other cosmeceutical actives. It reduces redness and protects the skin against free radicals that lead to wrinkles, thereby providing radiance and increased elasticity.”

Homegrown brand Global Beauty Secrets offers a three-in-one face cleanser, polisher and mask called Chandani Avahana Ubtan, containing silver. “The decision to infuse silver into the product is rooted in its deep historical significance and potential benefits for skincare, as supported by both ancient wisdom and scientific understanding,” begins Aishwarya Sawarna Nir, founder of the brand. “Ayurveda acknowledges silver’s antimicrobial and skin-enhancing properties. The Chandani Avahana Ubtan draws inspiration from Vedic rituals, where the invocation of moonlit energies is symbolic of purity and rejuvenation. This fusion of chaandi (silver) and chandan (sandalwood) creates an anulepana, a blend that helps to cleanse and exfoliate.” 

The making of such blends

When it comes to gold, more often than not, it is gold bhasma that is added to a formulation to enrich it. “Pure gold bhasma is prepared according to the tenets of Rasashastra, the branch of Ayurveda that deals with the artistry of transforming precious gems and metals into the finest herbs. Rasagranthas also describe it [gold bhasma] as Champak/Kumkum Varnabhaam, or the one with a beautiful saffron hue,” shares Yadav. Explaining the process of inculcating gold into skincare formulations, she says, “Fine leaflets of gold are simmered over fire and then submerged in hot, hand-pressed sesame oil; this is repeated at least seven times. The soft, melted leaflets are then processed with buttermilk and the decoction of kulattha (Dolichous biflorus) and kanji (gruel processed from rice and radish juices). Finally, the leaves are sun-dried and prepped with fresh lime juice and saindhav salt paste. They are then put into a traditional furnace called Kukkuta Puta with some prescribed herbs and minerals to achieve a fine herb-enriched gold ash, which has antioxidant and age-defying properties.”

Along the same lines, Shubhika Jain, founder and CEO, RAS Luxury, unveils the process that is implemented at her brand’s chemistry centre to make the best-selling Radiance Beauty Boosting Face Elixir. “Pure 24-karat gold is finely milled and suspended into the serum, ensuring that it is evenly distributed and can be applied seamlessly to the skin. This process allows the gold's beneficial properties to be effectively delivered to the skin, thereby promoting radiance, reducing signs of ageing and providing a nourishing boost to the skin’s overall health.”

Similarly, Sawarna Nir takes us through the process that goes into infusing silver into the ubtan offered by her brand. “Within our Chandani Avahana Ubtan, silver manifests as delicate silver leaves and micro-particles. These intricately structured components possess an extensive surface area, which is a key factor to enhance the interaction between silver and the skin. We meticulously integrate these silver elements into the ubtan’s formulation. This process ensures uniform dispersion, thereby establishing consistency in distribution and stability during application.” Meanwhile, the Eladi Day Cream from Forest Essentials is enriched with pearl powder, through the inclusion of Mukta Pishti, a specialised Ayurvedic preparation where precious Keshi pearls are hand-pounded to the right consistency with pure steam-distilled rosewater, mentions Yadav. 

Does this have science’s stamp of approval?

Gold, crushed rubies, pearls, and other precious minerals have been used in skincare for their potential benefits, although scientific evidence on their effectiveness is limited, opines  Dr Kiran Sethi, New Delhi-based celebrity dermatologist and author of Skin Sense. “Brands often infuse these precious minerals into skincare products for marketing purposes; the association of such ingredients with beauty can make products more appealing to consumers. However, it’s important to note that marketing claims don’t always align with scientific evidence,” begins the skincare expert, “as the actual benefits of gold, silver and pearls in skincare products are a subject of debate. While some studies suggest potential positive effects, the evidence is often limited, and results can vary from person to person. Factors such as the concentration of the minerals, formulation, and delivery methods can influence their effectiveness.”

“Gold is believed to have antioxidant properties and can stimulate collagen production, which could lead to improved skin elasticity and firmness. It might also help reduce inflammation and provide a brightening effect,” says Sethi. It is key to note that most times, when gold is infused into a skincare product, it is executed by the means of colloidal gold which refers to ‘nanogold’ or gold with nanoparticles as studies prove the efficiency of nanotechnology in offering delivery to the deepest layers of your skin. “However, this does raise concerns about potential absorption into the bloodstream,” she warns. 

While Sethi believes crushed rubies and pearls are included in skincare products for their gently exfoliating properties which help to remove dead skin cells and promote a smoother complexion, Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist and author of The Skincare Answer Book: Answers to the Most Frequently Asked Skincare Questions, Dr Jaishree Sharad, attributes the employment of silver and pearl due to their antimicrobial and brightening properties respectively. “Silver can help combat bacteria and other pathogens on the skin’s surface, making it potentially useful for acne-prone or problematic skin. Pearls, on the other hand, contain minerals and amino acids that can potentially nourish and hydrate the skin. There is evidence supporting these properties, but more research is needed to validate these claims fully,” she says. 

Terms and conditions indeed apply

No matter how opulent the infusion of gold, silver, pearls or rubies makes a skincare formulation sound, it may not prove to be equally propitious for everyone. Just as with any other skincare product, a serum or oil supercharged with pearls or gold flakes also carries the potential of irritating your skin. “Scientific evidence supporting their effectiveness is limited, with a possibility of adverse effects,” confirms Sethi. Some individuals may experience allergic reactions to these precious metals or gemstones, leading to skin irritation, redness, itching, or allergic dermatitis, notifies Sharad.

“The physical properties of crushed gems like pearls can be abrasive on the skin, causing micro-tears and irritation, especially for those with sensitive skin. Additionally, gold and silver compounds may contain heavy metals, which, when absorbed, can be harmful to the skin. Phototoxicity and interactions with other ingredients in skincare products can also lead to negative skin reactions.” As with any other skincare product, conducting a patch test on your neck first is a wise choice. In consensus, Sawarna Nir says that it’s prudent to recognise that individual responses to skincare ingredients vary. “Therefore, conducting a patch test before extended use, and consulting a dermatologist for guidance on integrating products containing silver or novel elements into one’s skincare regimen is strongly advised,” she concludes.

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