Should you be investing in saffron-infused skincare?

While some saffron-filled products might make you smell like mithai, the spice does have near-miraculous effects on your skin

It’s perhaps the ultimate glow in a bottle or a tub. No highlighter or Monet-level Impressionist brush strokes required. It works on all skin tones, types, and ages. And it’s ‘natural’, if that’s a dealbreaker. Saffron has been a staple in Indian skincare for millennia, but as with many indigenous practices and ingredients blowing up the Internet in recent times, saffron is enjoying the spotlight on the shelves of international behemoth stores too. 

Saffron in skincare has been said to improve complexion—adding a natural glow, fighting pigmentation—and is also said to heal, soothe, and renew skin. Its anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties are supposed to be superheroes when tackling acne. One of Ayurveda’s most well-known concoctions is the kumkumadi tailam, believed to have been created by the twin Vedic gods of medicine known as the Ashwini Kumaras. It translates to ‘saffron oil’ (kumkuma is saffron) and is a carefully made concoction of 21-25 herbs, spices, and oils aimed at balancing the doshas and addressing the issues that arise from the excess of any of them. A powerful antioxidant, saffron fights free-radical damage, and has vitamins A, B and C, all of which mitigate wrinkles, pigmentation, and trans-epidermal water loss. 

What’s the big deal about saffron?

Saffron is among the world’s most expensive spices, and its distinctive scent powers our memories of biryani, piping hot kahwa, and fragrant mithai. The spice was originally native to Persia. In India, the flowers that it is sourced from grow in the high altitudes of Pampore, Kashmir. In a report by The Indian Express in 2019, the annual demand in India for saffron is 100 tonnes, but only 6-7 tonnes are produced. To supplement the demand, saffron from Iran and Afghanistan is used.

However, for skincare, especially among brands that pride themselves on the provenance and authenticity of ingredients, the gold standard is the Pampore variety. “The alkaloids in this saffron is very high,” says Anand Srinivasan, head of research and development, Kama Ayurveda. “Saffron has a lot of components, but there are three main active constituents which contribute to its efficacy—crocin, picrocrocin, and safranal. Crocin is responsible for colour, for ‘good complexion’ and fights pigmentation. Picrocrocin is what lends the bitter taste. And safranel gives the smell,” he explains. Most importantly, saffron plays well with other ingredients, which explains how it’s moved beyond the annals of the Vedas and is now available as serums and gels in sophisticated and luxe formulations. 

The delivery system

The benefits of saffron are best delivered through a fat, which is why most DIY recipes and the kumkumadi tailam processes involve oils and full-fat milk. Meher Jadwani, founder of the pared-back skincare brand The Dearist, has been developing a saffron-based product for a few months. One of her challenges has been procuring unadulterated saffron infusions. “My manufacturer told me that you have to put the saffron in oil and then make an extract. Otherwise, it can be very adulterated,” she says. There are extracts of saffron that are water soluble, but those are expensive, adding to the cost of the final product. There are limited certifications in India when it comes to grading the quality of the spice. There are three grades that are commonly known, as well as the ISO certificate

Sourcing saffron is challenging, as Srinivasan explains, “The saffron we use is available only during October and November. It takes 150 flowers to get one gram of saffron. It’s expensive, but we are assured of its quality and its ability to penetrate the skin.” Kama’s bestselling kumkumadi tailam facial oil comprises saffron and goat’s milk. “Goat’s milk has a lot of therapeutic properties. Goats drink less water and the milk is very high in fats, increasing the potency of saffron,” adds Srinivasan. 

New-age saffron

With so much emphasis on beauty rituals and self-care routines, there has been a shift towards reinventing or relooking at traditional ingredients and formulations to make them accessible for a newer, younger audience, or a global market. One of the brands that has been successful in doing so is RANAVAT. The brainchild of Michelle Ranavat, the Ayurveda-forward brand’s bestselling product is Radiant Rani, a skin-brightening saffron serum. It is a lightweight serum with most of the kumkumadi tailam’s ingredients and all the benefits. “RANAVAT is a modern interpretation of Ayurveda,” says Ranavat. “We combine modern technology and clinical testing with Ayurvedic ingredients. The serum is an interpretation of traditional kumkumadi oil. I adjusted the formula to make it a bit lighter for year-round application and adjusted the scent profile with a hint of rose oil. For the Saffron Resurfacing Masque—this was a completely new formulation that we created in a modern light—the aim was to find the perfect balance of exfoliation and calm. Each treatment takes a unique approach and varies in terms of how much it speaks to the tradition of Ayurveda.” Using sesame oil as the base for their serum, Ranavat infuses the saffron and other herbs under low heat in copper vessels for 18 days. This process allows the phyto-nutrients of the plant to transfer into the skincare product.

“Yes, saffron does work on pigmentation and glow. It helps decrease the melanin in the skin,” says Jadwani. “But it’s important to check the source of the saffron, and how it’s been formulated.” It’s difficult for a layperson to get into detailed background checks, and this is where trusting a brand comes into play. Ayurveda’s traditional approach is extremely individualistic, but brands have taken pains to make sure a single product addresses multiple needs, with smart formulation. While the balancing of doshas is one aspect, there’s also varying weather conditions within India to consider. And while saffron is meant to be great for all skin types, there can be exceptions. Just because an ingredient or product is 100 per cent natural and/or organic does not mean it’s always safe. You might be allergic to it, for instance. Hemlock—cultivated in Kashmir for use in homeopathy—is also 100 percent natural and organic, but it can still be harmful to some. 

So do you need a saffron-infused skincare product in your routine? Yes. It’s anti-inflammatory, an antioxidant, and works to reduce skin pigmentation. But find the formula that works for you. Tailams or traditional Ayurvedic oils might be too heavy for some. Thankfully there are gels and serums to counteract that. There are also ongoing studies—and a few conclusive ones—that have looked into the benefits of saffron on neuropsychiatric diseases like anxiety, depression, Alzeihmer’s and Parkinson’s. Traditional Chinese medicine has used saffron for this purpose for millennia, and now clinical trials are being conducted to confirm their efficacy. Saffron is also known as ‘red gold’ and it’s increasingly clear why. Perhaps it’s time to upgrade saffron’s status and rename gold as ‘yellow saffron’.

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