Can adaptogens in skincare products regulate the body’s stress response system?

Creams and serums infused with adaptogenic ingredients claim to alleviate stress. But can a topical  product work beyond being just skin deep?

It’s safe to say that technology has pervaded the world of beauty and skincare too. From unheard-of-chemical active ingredients to artificial intelligence, the scope of beauty has shifted from being just about products to expanding into beauty tech, psychodermatology and the likes. The fast-paced advent of such innovations has paved the way for more thoughtfully curated skincare products as well, escalating the yardstick of what basic formulations should look and feel like. One of the outcomes of this phenomenon is adaptogenic skincare, which refers to skincare infused with adaptogens, or adaptogenic ingredients. 

Adaptogens have been a part of Ayurveda and Chinese Traditional Medicine (CTM) for centuries; however, they have resurged in recent times, making their way into beauty products. Positioned as powerful antidotes to stress, adaptogens are having a moment today—from good old neem to the buzz-generating ashwagandha, many of the known and not-so-known adaptogens are amongst the top ingredients of facial moisturisers, toners and serums today. However, can the infusion of adaptogens really destress you? If yes, to what extent? We ask brands and dermatologists to help us make sense of it all.

Understanding the basics 

Adaptogens are a group of herbs and natural substances that have been used in traditional medicine that help the body adapt to various stressors, whether physical, emotional or environmental, explains Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist and author Dr Jaishree Sharad. “The primary characteristic of adaptogens is their ability to support the body’s natural resistance to stress, promoting balance and homeostasis. They are thought to work by regulating the body’s stress response system, which includes the hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal (HPA) axis and the sympathetic-adrenal-medullary (SAM) axis.”

“There are about eight herbs that are well-researched adaptogens, another ten that are probable adaptogens, and twelve others that are possible adaptogens (too little research to be conclusive). More research would certainly find that many other plants around the world fit the definition of an adaptogen, but have just not been discovered yet,” David Winston, a clinical herbalist, ethnobotanist and co-author of Adaptogens: Herbs for Strength, Stamina, and Stress RelieftoldGoop. “At the same time, there are dozens of herbs that people claim are adaptogens that are not.” Some common adaptogenic ingredients used in cosmetics include ashwagandha, neem, ginseng, goji berry, tulsi, turmeric, rosehip oil, basil and licorice.

While adaptogens have been acclaimed as ingestible superfoods, their topical efficacy is now being explored in the beauty industry. According to Dr Madhuri Agarwal, celebrity dermatologist and founder, Yavana Aesthetics, most skin conditions are triggered and sustained by stress which makes adaptogenic ingredients valuable to the skin as they help to manage the external stress impact, balance the cortisol response and maintain an equilibrium. 

The scope of adaptogenic skincare

From Deepika Padukone co-founded 82°E's Ashwagandha Bounce moisturiser to cult-favourite K-beauty brand Sulwhasoo’s new version of its bestselling First Care Activating Serum, brands across the globe have embraced adaptogenic ingredients. In skincare, adaptogens are increasingly being incorporated into products due to their potential antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, believes Sharad. “Through studies, it has been discovered that adaptogens are beneficial in the case of acne flare-ups as acne usually occurs due to hormonal imbalances and cortisol spikes that follow periods of stress, and adaptogens naturally help with exactly that—controlling cortisol spikes. The antioxidant nature of adaptogens is seen to be helpful in ageing concerns too. Since adaptogens are anti-inflammatory, they can benefit in the case of allergies and irritated skin.”

Sharad appreciates the gentle and mild nature of multi-beneficial adaptogens that make a considerable option for sensitive, irritated skin as well. “Adaptogens might support the skin’s natural barrier function, helping it retain moisture and prevent water loss, which is crucial for healthy and hydrated skin. Although the effects on the skin are indirect, using adaptogens in skincare might contribute to overall stress reduction, which could have positive impacts on skin health. They are also believed to strengthen the skin’s ability to handle stressors and adapt to changes, potentially leading to a more resilient complexion.”

How far can adaptogens go?

It’s impossible to talk about adaptogens without throwing light on their capabilities to combat stress—this class of ingredients almost thrive and survives (read: pique the interest of consumers) on the very basis of being able to destress you. But, what kind of stress are we talking about—the one experienced by your skin on a skin-deep level or the psychological stress that most of us go through? And, how do adaptogens mitigate it anyway? “When discussing adaptogens in skincare, we are primarily referring to the physiological stress experienced by the skin. This type of stress is related to external environmental factors and internal imbalances that can impact the skin's health and appearance,” clarifies Sharad.

“When adaptogens are infused in skincare products, their stress-reducing benefits are not targeted at the psychological stress that you might experience in your daily life. Instead, they are related to the physiological stress that your skin undergoes.” Along the same lines, Agarwal adds, “Oral [adaptogenic] supplementation works more effectively than topical application, usually found in skincare formulations such as washes, serums and creams.” When applied topically, they are seen to work on the skin cells to reduce the free-radical damage, control oily skin, decrease skin reactivity and also work on pigment reduction, she further explains. 

Explaining the science behind why the adaptogenic effect of topical skincare is limited to the skin, Prachi Bhandari, co-founder and head of Research and Development at Aminu says, firstly, the concentration is typically low to have an effect on the entire nervous/endocrine system. Secondly, very little—if any—of these adaptogens will anyway find their way into the bloodstream when applied topically. “Probably, a more direct way to mentally destress is by ingesting edible adaptogens, or perhaps, through aromatherapy.”

It’s important to note that while adaptogens have a long history of traditional use and some promising research, more scientific studies are needed to fully understand their mechanisms of action and potential benefits in skincare and other areas of health, notifies Sharad.

Why are brands betting on adaptogenic formulations?

While both Agarwal and Sharad maintain an objective opinion on the idiosyncrasies and effectiveness of adaptogens, we asked brands to walk us through the merit that they observed in adaptogens. Mini Sood Banerjee, head of marketing at Amorepacific—the company responsible for bringing K-beauty brands like Innisfree, Sulwhasoo and Etude House to India—talks about the infusion of ginseng in Sulwhasoo’s bestseller.

“Ginseng is a heritage ingredient that has been traditionally used in Korea for skincare as it contains high levels of vitamins, minerals and antioxidants that nourish the skin for a fast-acting glow,” says Sood Banerjee. Upon being asked if the adaptogenic characteristic of the ingredient was a key incentive too, she explains, “Yes, the adaptogenic properties of ginseng were indeed a motivator for the brand. In Sulwhasoo’s products, adaptogens are natural substances that are believed to help the body and skin adapt to various stressors, promoting balance and overall well-being. Ginseng aligns well with Sulwhasoo’s philosophy of combining traditional wisdom with modern skincare science. The brand’s focus on ginseng is driven by its potential to enhance the skin’s resilience against both external and internal stressors.”

Even for Bhandari, the adaptogenic and anti-inflammatory properties of ashwagandha and neem—found in the brand’s Phyto Nutrient Oil and oil-based products respectively—acted as a strong impetus while formulating the products. “Neem is very rich in several phytochemicals that aid in improving skin health. Among other benefits, we added neem in our formulas specifically for its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties as inflammation is the underlying cause of several major skin concerns such as premature ageing, pigmentation and increased sensitivity,” begins Bhandari, “It is very important to keep your skin de-stressed. Ashwagandha also shines as an ingredient for its anti-inflammatory and adaptogenic properties.”

Is it worth your investment?

Just like other common skincare ingredients—think hyaluronic acid, ceramides and vitamin C—adaptogens, too, don’t promise instant gratification. “Adaptogenic skincare can be a helpful addition to your skincare routine, especially if you have stressed skin, but it might not be the only solution,” says Sharad. “To effectively address stressed skin, a holistic approach that combines multiple strategies like a healthy diet, hydration, sun protection, stress management and adequate sleep are recommended.” Agarwal is in consensus with Sharad, explaining that adaptogens cannot be the only answer to everything stress-related as there are limited studies on the subject and lack solid approvals from the FDA (Food & Drug Administration).

That being said, using skincare products that combine adaptogenic ingredients with compatible actives is a risk-free move that you will certainly not regret, for it equips your skin with a stress-fighting mechanism in addition to the other benefits from the ingredient blend that forms the product. If the skin is not under stress (and not inflamed), the cell regeneration is faster and hence it ages relatively slower. Moreover, its ability to stay naturally hydrated is higher, the barrier is stronger and hence there are lesser chances of infection, says Bhandari. “In other words, skin that is not stressed stays healthier for longer,” she concludes. 

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