Subscribe to our newsletter and be the first to access exclusive content and expert insights.

subscribe now subscribe cover image
Ria Bhatia profile imageRia Bhatia

Several beauty brands today espouse veganism with products championing ‘vegan’ on the label. What does it mean for your skin though?

Is vegan skincare more than just a fad?

Several beauty brands today espouse veganism, championing ‘vegan’ on the label. What does it mean for your skin though?

Gone are the days when beauty brands could thrive on basic formulations crafted with minimal effort, brand campaigns that pick on women’s insecurities and a business modus operandi that failed to factor in social responsibility and environment friendliness. Today, in the supposedly woke era, beauty brands, that form an industry worth US$579.20 billion globally, ought to be more accountable for everything they do—from the formulations of their products to their communication and everything in between. As a result, beauty brands have not only established noteworthy eco-friendly programmes and policies but have also become more conscious and intentional about the formulations that they create. Vegan, plant-based, cruelty-free and organic formulations have therefore taken centre stage. According to a report by Fortune Business Insights, the global vegan cosmetics market, valued at US$15.87 billion in 2021, is projected to touch US$24.79 billion by 2028 at a compound annual growth rate of 6.57 per cent. 

Simply put, a vegan formulation is one that doesn’t feature any animal-derived ingredients at all—including something as staple as beeswax. While the positive effects of this from an environmental point of view are decipherable, do such formulations actually present the skin with any benefits?. We reach out to brands to hear their perspectives on this and ask two dermatologists to weigh their opinions.

What does a vegan formulation refer to?

Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta, aesthetician and founder of ISAAC Luxe, explains that vegan cosmetics are made without any materials of animal origin or their traces. Conventional materials of animal origin include honey, beeswax, lanolin, collagen and elastin that are being replaced by materials derived from plants or minerals [in the case of vegan products]. Along the same lines, Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Madhuri Agarwal says, “There are few certification bodies to mark the formulation as vegan and certify that the ingredients used in the product are made from organic and naturally-derived components.”

The Body Shop was the first cruelty-free brand certified by Cruelty-Free International. Today, the brand proudly mentions 'vegan' on the packaging of its products that fall under this category. Image: Instagram.com/thebodyshopindia

The Body Shop was the first cruelty-free brand certified by Cruelty-Free International. Today, the brand proudly mentions 'vegan' on the packaging of its products that fall under this category. Image: Instagram.com/thebodyshopindia

According to Romita Mazumdar, founder of homegrown skincare brand FoxTale, the scope of vegan skincare also entails using ingredients and methods that cause no harm to animals at any point in the process of product development, including final production and manufacturing. Sukriti Jindal Khaitan, co-founder of clean beauty brand asa beauty believes that vegan make-up embodies an ethical attitude towards beauty. “Its guiding philosophy is to promote cruelty-free practices, ensuring that no animals are harmed at any stage of production. Furthermore, vegan make-up encourages sustainability by reducing its environmental effect. Adhering to these norms not only safeguards animal welfare but also illustrates a mindful commitment to the health and well-being of the planet.”

However, contrary to what many presume, being vegan is not the same as being cruelty-free. And, brands cannot transpose the two claims for one another. Veronica Bahl, co-founder of MASIC Beauty clarifies, “A brand can be cruelty-free without being vegan, and vice versa. Cruelty-free means the brand does not cause animal cruelty, particularly in terms of animal testing for all their formulas. For instance, COSRX’s cult-favourite snail mucin is not vegan but is still cruelty-free since no snails are harmed in the process [of manufacturing].”

How are vegan cosmetics prepared?

Founder of nascent homegrown skincare company Gunam Beauty, Elizabeth Isaac’s intention behind making her brand’s products vegan was fairly simple—to be more inclusive. “Honestly, in cosmetics, making products vegan is not too complicated. Aside from a few ingredients derived from animal milk and bees, most of the other commonly used ingredients are vegan,” shares the founder. “In fact, even an ingredient like lactic acid, used widely in the industry, is mostly derived from vegan sources.” Mazumdar explains that to ensure a formulation is vegan, every step from the research and development (R&D) to final production is evaluated carefully. “When formulating, every ingredient chosen must be classified vegan by the supplier and come with a certification for the same. Often, there are some essential ingredients that have been historically obtained from animals; for example, glycerin, which is traditionally derived from pigs. Fortunately, science has progressed positively and nearly most of these products have plant-based vegan alternatives that deliver the same results, if not better.”

“Honestly, in cosmetics, making products vegan is not too complicated. Aside from a few ingredients derived from animal milk and bees, most of the other commonly used ingredients are vegan,” shares Elizabeth Isaac. Image: Instagram.com/milkmakeup

“Honestly, in cosmetics, making products vegan is not too complicated. Aside from a few ingredients derived from animal milk and bees, most of the other commonly used ingredients are vegan,” shares Elizabeth Isaac. Image: Instagram.com/milkmakeup

Jindal Khaitan thinks of vegan make-up as an ethical alternative for conscious customers looking for compassionate beauty solutions because of its dedication to using cruelty-free and sustainable solutions. “A comprehensive cross-checking technique is used during the production process to guarantee that all components and formulas match the vegan requirements.” Bahl apprises, “In the case of most brands, including MASIC, which works with contract manufacturers, achieving a vegan product requires clear communication in the product brief. The manufacturers carefully choose plant-based or synthetic alternatives, avoiding any animal-derived ingredients like beeswax or lanolin. We ensure that we only work with suppliers who offer certified vegan ingredients, meet strict standards and have credibility and past experience with launching vegan formulas. Lastly, during product development, the labs create prototypes and samples, ensuring they stay within the vegan boundaries. We do not sample any non-vegan formulas in the journey which makes it easier to eliminate the possibility.”

How do vegan products fare for the skin?

Vegan formulations pare down the utilisation of animal-derived by-products, but what do they do for the skin? “Vegan cosmetics contain natural ingredients that work with your skin, not against it, making it ideal for those with sensitive skin or irritating skin conditions, like rosacea,” states Mittal Gupta. While the positive eco-friendly impact of vegan cosmetics is obvious, “many of such products are also gluten-free, which is a huge perk for people who suffer from diseases like celiac and other inflammatory skin conditions.”

“PLANT-BASED OR LAB-GROWN ALTERNATIVES ARE USUALLY MUCH GENTLER ON THE SKIN AND WON’T AGGRAVATE ANY CONDITIONS OR IRRITATE THE SKIN; THEY ARE ALSO LESS LIKELY TO CLOG PORES AND FAR MORE SUITABLE FOR SENSITIVE SKIN TYPES”

Romita Mazumdar

From a larger lens, any vegan formulation is known to be more skin-friendly and skin-loving as animal-based products tend to be heavy and difficult to absorb by the skin. “Vegan products are relatively kinder to the skin and safer to use. Plant-based or lab-grown alternatives are usually much gentler on the skin and won’t aggravate any conditions or irritate the skin; they are also less likely to clog pores and far more suitable for sensitive skin types,” shares Mazumdar.

There are particularly comparative studies that can vouch for additional skin benefits from a vegan formulation vis-à-vis a regular formulation. However, the presumption and anecdotal experiences show that if something is purely plant-based, it will be more well-tolerated by even sensitive and rosacea-prone skin, says Agarwal. She highlights how vegan alternatives can be superior to ingredients derived from animals. “They [vegan ingredients] could include superior antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and natural oils from plant sources. Since vegan products typically have less chemical content, they are promoted to be gentler on the skin. However, there is very little data or scientific proof to these claims,” adds the doctor, pointing out that some of the plant-based ingredients like tea tree or witch hazel could be potentially more irritating as compared to science-backed, non-vegan ingredients.

From a larger lens, any vegan formulation is known to be more skin-friendly and skin-loving as animal-based products tend to be heavy and difficult to absorb by the skin. Image: Instagram.com/asabeauty

From a larger lens, any vegan formulation is known to be more skin-friendly and skin-loving as animal-based products tend to be heavy and difficult to absorb by the skin. Image: Instagram.com/asabeauty

“Vegan cosmetics contain natural ingredients that work with your skin, not against it, making it ideal for those with sensitive skin or irritating skin conditions, like rosacea,” says Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta. Image: Instagram.com/theordinary

“Vegan cosmetics contain natural ingredients that work with your skin, not against it, making it ideal for those with sensitive skin or irritating skin conditions, like rosacea,” says Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta. Image: Instagram.com/theordinary

The Body Shop was the first cruelty-free brand certified by Cruelty-Free International. “We were the first cosmetics company to campaign against animal testing in 1989, with a fundamental belief that animals should not be harmed in the pursuit of beauty,” says Harmeet Singh, Vice President of Marketing at The Body Shop, Asia South. “Vegan ingredients/formulations have the upper hand over non-vegan ones due to their reduced risk of allergens and irritants from animal-derived ingredients, making them suitable for sensitive skin. For example, the Edelweiss Daily Serum Concentrate’s concoction has double the concentration of Edelweiss plant extract, which is naturally (and rather uniquely) strengthened with leontopodic acid known for its antioxidant properties. In fact, we found the tiny Edelweiss plant extract to have 43 per cent more antioxidant power than retinol. We’ve enriched our vegan serum with natural-origin peptides too. Derived from rice, peptides are known to help maintain the skin’s natural moisture barrier.”

Are vegan cosmetics always better?

“I wouldn’t go so far as to say one is better than the other,” says beauty content creator and founder of make-up brand Wearified, Aanam Chashmawala, in concurrence with what Agarwal mentioned earlier. “But yes, vegan products have proven to be better for highly sensitive skin types and various autoimmune conditions. So, one might feel more confident about picking up a vegan formula.” She chose to opt for an all-vegan line since as a brand, she wanted to be fair to all elements of the ecosystem, and beyond that, it’s also a good business decision to stay vegan because some people may be allergic to different kinds of animal derivatives. However, she doesn’t consider one to be loftier than the other. “It’s like saying there’s no scientific proof that organic-anything is better than its counterpart. It’s just a matter of preference, and that’s something we respect.”

According to Aanam Chashmawala, it’s also a good business decision to stay vegan because some people may be allergic to different kinds of animal derivatives. However, she doesn’t consider one to be loftier than the other. Image: Instagram.com/rubysorganics

According to Aanam Chashmawala, it’s also a good business decision to stay vegan because some people may be allergic to different kinds of animal derivatives. However, she doesn’t consider one to be loftier than the other. Image: Instagram.com/rubysorganics

“While using vegan skincare products is a conscious and ethical choice, their effectiveness on your skin type may vary,” mentions Prachi Bhandari, co-founder of Aminu. “Keep in mind that everyone reacts differently to certain ingredients. For example, petroleum-based products may harm some due to man-made chemicals, and natural oils derived from nuts or seeds can trigger sensitivities in others. Also, animal ingredients have yet to be proven to be superior, and wholesome vegan alternatives exist. Vegan formulas and ingredients can be just as effective as non-vegan ones. The key is finding the right fit for your skin, and with patience and perseverance, you’ll discover the proper routine and achieve healthy skin,” she says. 

Also Read: Do all vegan perfumes really follow ethical standards?

Also Read: Will a diet devoid of dairy help your skin?

Also Read: Here’s why it’s close to impossible for the beauty industry to ditch plastic

Ria Bhatia profile imageRia Bhatia
Ria Bhatia is the associate beauty editor at The Established. She explores beauty and wellness through industrial, cultural, and social lenses, with bylines in Femina, ELLE India, Harper’s Bazaar India, Masala UAE, and VOGUE India.

Subscribe for More

Subscribe to our newsletter and be the first to access exclusive content and expert insights.

subscribe now