Are medi-facials better than in-salon skin treatments?

While old-school facials still exist, advanced skin treatments and target-based facials have become more accessible at your dermatologist’s clinic. Which one should you opt for? 

A facial is one of the most sought-after beauty treatments women gravitate towards, and this has been the norm for years now—the older women in your family can corroborate this. While facials continue to thrive as the most-loved monthly beauty (and self-care) ritual for most women, owing to its premise of relaxation and rejuvenation, the scope of facials has expanded widely in the past few years, creating newer definitions. Traditionally, a facial entailed a beauty therapist at a salon (or a ‘parlour aunty’) who would execute the treatment with a fixed set of largely  local products such as a cleanser, face scrub, mask and a couple of tools to take care of any active blemishes on the face or blackheads and whiteheads on the nose. The process would include a steamer too, to open up the pores of your skin as the precursor to the facial.  

Today, while old-school facials still exist, advanced skin treatments, clean-ups and target-based facials have become more accessible at your dermatologist’s clinic. From boosting collagen to reducing pigmentation, controlling sebum production to improving skin texture, there’s a well-curated facial treatment to cater to every skin type and skin concern. Simultaneously, salon chains across India have also begun offering high-quality facials and chemical peels in the quest to make the highest-standard therapies for their clientele. So then, as a consumer, when you head out for a facial, what makes for a better choice—medi-facials or in-salon facials? We ask the experts.

The scope of medi-facials

While the process of an in-salon facial isn’t alien to most of us, medi-facials are a rather novel concept. Dr Geetika Gupta Mittal, dermatologist and founder, ISAAC Luxe, defines medi-facials as a new-age treatment that combines medicine and facials. “In-salon facials have been done for years now; they are all about feeling good, experiencing some relaxation and some superficial skin cleansing benefits,” says Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Madhuri Agarwal. On the other hand, dermatologists have always vouched for facials with clinical benefits dubbed as ‘medi-facials’. These work at a deeper level and target skin concerns with an integrated feel-good factor and element of relaxation, believes Agarwal.

Dr Pooja Talera Shah, founder of KOSA Wellbeing, considers medi-facials as an investment. “We call them Superfacials™ at KOSA as they are designed to work on concerns and improve the skin over time. Creating such a facial requires medical knowledge, inputs from an experienced beauty therapist, product knowledge by scientists and any additional fields in terms of technique used,” explains the skin doctor, indicating how and why a medi-facial involves a more science-backed approach and a unique skill set. Explaining the courses of action that fall under the medi-facial bracket, Agarwal shares, “A typical medi-facial aims to reduce skin clogging and dead skin buildup, stimulate blood circulation, improve the skin cell turnover and reset the new skin cell cycle by infusing nutrition and certain actives in the skin.” Since the skin cell turnover cycle is typically of 28 days, she advises seeking a medi-facial appointment on a monthly basis. 

The steps of a medi-facial include cleansing, stimulation, exfoliation, treatment of skin concern with devices, infusion (of chemical active ingredients) and finally, masking, apprises Agarwal. “There are various devices that utilise radiofrequency and dermal infusion to stimulate the skin and also help with lymphatic drainage. This is followed by exfoliation which is done with devices like OxyGeneo, low vacuum pressure, microdermabrasion and jet peel to reduce skin clogging, whiteheads and blackheads. Devices like Q-switched (that performs laser) are used to reduce pigmentation. Infusions are done with electroporation machines and finally, a relaxing mask completes most medi-facials. LED light is also used in certain medi-facials.”

Medi-facials versus in-salon facials

Though the end goal of both kinds of facials is to deliver healthy-looking, refreshed and glowing skin, the modus operandi varies at every stage. For instance, one of the influencing factors that drive you to a salon for a facial is the sense of relaxation you experience through the massages and hand movements, which is usually not a given in a lot of medi-facials. According to Sana Dhanani, founder of The White Door India, the primary distinction is that facials provided at a dermatologist’s office are more clinical-driven and might be problem-focused as doctors typically administer them. Here, it’s less to do with the overall experience and more with solving a skin problem. “On the flip side, facials that are administered in salons are done by skin therapists and are more aesthetically pleasing and experience-inclined to maintain the skin’s health. Specific massage techniques are used to release muscle tension around your face, and the experience is more comforting and relaxing for the client.”

Along the same lines, Kanchan Punjani, beauty and make-up education manager at Jean Claude Biguine Salons India, says, “Salons use non-medical-grade (non-chemical) procedures that help to renew the cells so that the skin is rejuvenated, smooth and supple and are handled by trained aestheticians who work on superficial layers of the skin. The treatments involve the implementation of face massage tools along with manual anti-ageing and lymphatic massage techniques which require manual pressure, stretching or vibrations to activate the skin cells tissues underneath and stimulate blood flow, release facial muscles’ tension caused by stress, deliver oxygen flow and improve the production of collagen.” However, “Salon facials have a limited scope to customise the face treatment because of the standard face treatment protocols,” admits Punjani.

Dhanani, meanwhile, has a slightly different take on this, based on what’s offered in her salon. “While clinical facials are machine-based, they have a short treatment time of no more than 45 minutes and do not include services like extractions; spa facials are often procedures that last anywhere from 60 to 120 minutes, are highly personalised and may be modified to address the client’s unique skin issues,” she says.

Does the quality also vary?

Considering that medi-facials involve the use of high-quality technology, at times, a combination of multiple technologies, to address skin concerns, and are done under the supervision of a board-certified dermatologist in a clinic, they unquestionably have an upper hand with regard to safety and experience, opines Agarwal. “There is a lot of time and energy spent in a clinic on ensuring impeccable hygiene levels, FDA-approved devices and superior quality materials used in medi-facials.”

Mittal Gupta recommends in-office treatments as they are customised according to your skin type and have an extra edge over salon treatments. “The procedure makes use of medical-grade products and devices to deeply cleanse, exfoliate and rejuvenate the skin, making it beneficial for skin concerns including acne, sun damage and fine lines and wrinkles. The use of medical-grade products and devices also deeply penetrates the skin to deliver powerful antioxidants, vitamins and nutrients,” says the dermatologist, highlighting the targeted benefits of a medi-facial, besides the guaranteed safety quotient. But naturally, medi-facials are, therefore, more expensive. 

However, we can’t overlook the progress that salons have made in terms of their facial offerings. For example, The White Door’s spa facials employ products from Biologique Recherche, just like ISAAC Luxe and many other clinics, except the technique and medium of delivery are distinguished. “At The White Door, the brand combines science and the latest beauty technology to drive visible results in the product and service line. We have international trainers to up-skill our staff and technicians to match globally-acceptable standards with local tastes, preferences and climatic conditions to ensure the best experience is delivered. We have also imported state-of-the-art machines to offer complex facials to stay ahead of the curve,” says Dhanani.

Even at Jean Claude Biguine, one can go and avail a Spanish skincare brand Skeyndor’s Probiome Personalised chemical peels, which is a small step to bridge the gap between an in-office treatment and in-salon facial. “The peel has a scientific approach—a combination of low volume of acids with high-quality natural ingredients. There are various peels and unique technologies with multi-biotic restoring complexes that are used to develop three hyaluronic acids (low, medium and high) and postbiotics that have pre and probiotic properties, to rebalance, restore and regenerate the new skin cells for stimulating the skin's natural microbiome at an affordable price. Needless to say, it’s done by trained, qualified and certified professionals only,” shares Punjani. 

You do you

While Mittal Gupta believes that salon facials are designed to give a more soothing and pampering experience and simply target the top layer of the skin, medi-facials are more like a treatment for your skin and its active concerns which generally comes along with a consultation (with the dermatologist) as a precursor. “For aesthetic services, a spa/salon would suffice to give you an instant glow, hydration, cleanup or sculpted look, depending on the facial or skin treatment,” says Dhanani. However, she does agree that despite offering a host of services that cater to maintenance for acne, pigmentation and scars, for any major skin-related issue, you cannot replace your dermatologist with a spa treatment. 

While at a dermatologist’s clinic, you can trust the doctor to prescribe the best-suited treatment for you when visiting a salon, it is paramount to ensure that it passes all quality checks. “When accurate knowledge and experience is lacking, it can lead to wrong practices and no result. Side-effects like allergic reactions, rashes and dark spots are commonly seen after salon facials, if not done properly. Hygiene is another factor that can cause the transfer of infections, and bleach and steam have the potential of adverse effects,” says Agarwal. In concurrence, Talera Shah says, “A lack of understanding of a client’s skin type and concern is common. Hence, an in-salon facial might not do much for the skin in the long run. Occasionally, using the wrong products or excessive steam or extractions could cause more damage to the skin.” 

If you wish to club the benefits of both varieties, look for a clinic or service that provides a blend of indulgence and efficacy. “At KOSA, our facials include the latest technology; say, for anti-ageing, four types of microcurrents delivered with pure cosmeceutical ingredients, along with a physiotherapist-designed lymphatic drainage,” says Talera Shah. “In the case of facials designed with clinical relevance, you not only get immediate results but a longer, deeper action on the tissue and muscle which helps in long-term maintenance of skin health,” she concludes.

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