How effective is the light therapy offered by LED masks?

This at-home device makes indulging in light therapy convenient and effortless but does it match up to hi-tech, in-office treatments?

When Kourtney Kardashian posted a picture with a Stormtrooper-like mask-cum-device in November last year, it took the Internet by storm (no pun intended). The device was nothing but an LED mask, priced at least a whopping US $300-400, they have made their way into almost every A-lister’s beauty arsenal.

The way these masks function sounds almost magical—you put it on, opt for a preferred light and observe your skin improving visibly. However, there’s more science to this face tool than you think. What many may not be cognisant of is that such light-based therapies have been thriving at your favourite dermatologist’s clinic for a while now. The core (light therapy) technology that renders the mask its benefits has been employed at different stages across in-office treatments to boost their final outcome. Today, with the emergence of beauty-tech brands (or perhaps, offerings), more and more LED masks are being commercialised. While we’re not complaining, we attempt to find out how they fare in comparison to a comprehensive in-office treatment.

What are LED masks all about?

LED, or Light Emitting Diode, is made up of electrons and holes within energy bands. The separation of the bands, or the bandgap, determines the energy of the photons (light particles) emitted by the LED. The photon energy then determines the wavelength of the emitted light, and hence its colour, explains Vibhuti Arora, face yoga expert and founder, House Of Beauty.

“Different semiconductor materials with different bandgaps produce different colours of light,” she adds. New Delhi-based dermatologist Dr Jushya Bhatia Sarin explains further, “This therapy makes use of a simple principle of physics—one form of energy is transformed into another form. The light emitted by these diodes is in the infrared spectrum which is converted to heat energy when it hits different aspects of the skin. This can boost collagen, reduce inflammation and can have an antibacterial effect.”

Author and celebrity dermatologist Dr Kiran Sethi started infusing LED therapy in her signature NY4D facial as early as 2013. “With LED therapy as an add-on to a service, you can reduce redness, improve healing and boost collagen. I started doing it for acne treatments because in about 15-20 minutes, thrice a week, LED treatment (with low levels of energy) can significantly improve the occurrence of pimples. Currently, most of our services have an LED component as it boosts results by increasing collagen synthesis,” shares Sethi. 

Colour theory 101

While blue and red lights are the top contenders for all skin types, yellow and green lights can come in handy when it comes to more specific skin conditions like melasma, scars and wound healing. “Red LED light stimulates collagen, which is necessary for wound healing. People who have had skin-resurfacing surgeries have also received red LED light therapy after the procedure as it reduces redness, swelling and bruising while accelerating the healing process,” explains Arora. She adds, “On the other hand, acne is frequently treated with blue light because it has been scientifically proven to kill the acne-causing bacteria and reduce the amount of oil your glands produce. This prevents the hair follicle from clogging and causing acne.” A handful of LED masks also contain green, yellow and purple lights that efficiently target pigmentation, scars, dark spots; tackle freckles; and improve lymph metabolism respectively.

At-home v/s in-office LED therapy

Given the leaps that technology has taken, it doesn’t really come as a surprise that you can welcome the most proficient tech tools at home today. However, it is important to note that there will always be a conspicuous difference between the way the process takes place  at a clinic vis-a-vis at home. 

Hyderabad-based celebrity dermatologist and founder, Glow Clinic, Dr Varshini Reddy appreciates the evolution of at-home LED masks as they are easy-to-use, portable devices when compared to the ones at a clinic, allowing  us to use them more frequently and increase the longevity of results achieved after a treatment (or procedure) at the clinic. “These masks need to be used at least thrice a week for best results,” she highlights. However, when a device is calibrated for in-office use, it goes through unparalleled trials, administered by medical experts. To identify an efficacy-first LED mask, Sethi advises picking one that is approved and regulated by the USA FDA (The United States Food & Drug Administration) or the European Commission. “This can ensure that the energy or light delivered by your device is correct, safe and effective,” she says.

“For the most part, the FDA-cleared LED devices are pretty much very safe, but ‘safe’ is different from ‘safe and effective’. It’s not like there’s a governing body that measures the power densities of these home devices,” Jared Jagdeo, M.D. and associate professor of dermatology and the director of the Center for Photomedicine told The Cut, echoing the persistent difference between at-home and in-office light therapy.

Worth the investment?

If we go by what skin experts say, the answer is yes, provided you choose the right one and adhere to the required protocols. “LED masks do make a slight difference, but it is not extremely significant or enormous. So I would recommend it more as an add-on solution instead of just focusing on the light. Those who are sensitive to light or prone to seizure disorder should avoid using LED masks,” recommends Dr Sethi.

According to Reddy, an LED mask is a one-time investment. “Invest in a good quality one that lasts longer, so the cost per use works out better in the long run.” As far as the SOP is concerned, “Use it on cleansed, bare skin for 10 minutes or what the mask specifies, depending on the wavelengths used. A hydrating serum or a peptide-based serum can be applied too, in some cases. Never forget to put on eye-protection goggles. Lastly, use it at least thrice a week; compliance is key to seeing good results with these devices,” she advises.

Furthermore, using the mask on a full face of make-up is a strict no-no. “When used consistently, LED masks do make a difference in improving fine lines, collagen production, rejuvenation and plumpness, and help with reducing redness and inflammation,” Reddy reinstates.

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