Witch hazel–oily skin’s dream ingredient–is making a comeback

If witch hazel is on the list of ingredients you’ve been looking forward to adding to your skincare, here’s everything you need to know about it 

From Thayers’ cult-favourite facial toner to Mario Badescu’s Witch Hazel & Rose Water Toner, a handful of efficacious options feature witch hazel as the main ingredient. Celebrities affirm the many benefits of witch hazel too. While Drew Barrymore swears by Dickinson’s Witch Hazel wipes, Zendaya finds the Thayers Facial Toner in the Rose Petal variant to be extremely refreshing. Khloe Kardashian went on to share that the Quinns Witch Hazel and Rose Toner is a staple in her skincare routine. Clearly, witch hazel has a rock-solid fanbase. Why? Because the botanical extract is believed to have a myriad of benefits for every skin type. Traditionally, witch hazel was used to treat concerns like inflammation, common cold and flu, eye irritation, and insect bites. However, it became synonymous with toners a few years ago and the ingredient is on its way to making a comeback again. We talk to skincare experts to know more about the plant-based ingredient.

What exactly is witch hazel?

“The witch hazel plant (Hamamelis virginiana) is a flowering shrub whose leaves, bark, and twigs are processed to create a clear liquid that is sold commercially as witch hazel. The plant extract itself is also used in topical ointments, although the toner-like liquid form is far more common for skincare,” shares Desiree Stordahl, director of Applied Research and Education at Paula’s Choice.

Dr Kiran Sethi, New Delhi-based dermatologist and author of Skin Sense, informs that witch hazel has several medicinal properties. “It is commonly used in skincare products and is popular for its astringent, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.” She adds, “The extract is obtained via a distillation process and is a clear liquid with compounds including tannins, flavonoids, and volatile oils.” According to Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta, celebrity skin expert and founder of Isaac Luxe, the astringent, antioxidant properties and natural preservative properties combined with the ease of formulation, make witch hazel a valuable ingredient for cosmetic and skincare products.

Why is witch hazel touted as an oily skin saviour?

Allison Marks from Murad Skincare's Education Team, says that witch hazel is used as an astringent in blemish-controlling products and as a skin conditioner, and as a cooling and soothing agent in hydrating skincare products. However, if you’re wondering how exactly it works on regulating the sebum production of the skin, Stordahl lets us in on the scientific fundamentals of the ingredient. “It is used as an astringent (a lotion that controls bleeding caused by bruises as well as reduces the oil secretion in the skin) for skin due to its tannin content. When applied to the skin, tannins have a constricting and drying effect. They compress proteins in the skin, creating an invisible film that can, to a minor degree, temporarily decrease skin and minimise the look of enlarged pores.”

On the same lines, Sethi informs that it helps with the constriction or tightening of skin tissues when applied topically. “This tightening effect can help reduce the appearance of enlarged pores, giving the skin a smoother and more refined look,” she says. 

Sethi attributes witch hazel’s property to treat acne and eczema to this very nature of the ingredient. “As an astringent, witch hazel extract also maintains the pH of the skin, reduces inflammation, soothes irritation and itchiness and dries out blemishes,” shares Mittal Gupta. “Murad features witch hazel in the hydrating toner where the ingredient is a cooling and soothing agent whereas it is also used in the clarifying toner to dissolve oil and tighten the pores,” says Marks.

There’s more to the botanical extract

While witch hazel is often associated with oily and combination skin, owing to its high astringency, you can leverage its other properties to alleviate a slew of common concerns. Loaded with anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, witch hazel “is great for insect bites and skin irritations that cause itching or discomfort,” says Sethi. Mittal Gupta also highlights the botanical extract’s efficacy to terminate dandruff. “Its anti-inflammatory properties enable witch hazel to subside sunburn, an irritated scalp, redness and puffiness as well as rashes. Witch hazel also contains a range of antioxidants, including flavonoids and gallic acid. These compounds help to protect the skin from free radicals, which are unstable molecules that can cause skin damage and accelerate the ageing process.”

Not without its caveats

Witch hazel is trending on TikTok recently, with over 75 million views on the application. However, it is important to be aware of its cons as much as the pros. While astringents have the propensity to reduce oil production and tighten the pores temporarily, the entire process can be taxing (read: irritating and triggering) for people with sensitive skin, or perhaps, a compromised barrier. “If the individual’s skin barrier is compromised, it is possible it could not be well tolerated as individual reactions and sensitivities may vary. It is important to purchase products from a trusted brand to assure they are well-formulated,” says Marks. 

“In addition to tannins—the main astringent compound—most types of witch hazel are distilled using denatured alcohol (ethanol), with the final extract for use on skin containing about 14 to 15 per cent alcohol. Although the distillation process destroys some of the tannins (which, ironically, is a good thing, given that they are potential irritants), applying this kind of alcohol to your skin generates free-radical damage and impairs the skin’s surface,” explains Stordahl. Moreover, according to her, witch hazel contains the fragrance chemical eugenol, known to be a skin irritant.

Talking about the compatibility of acne-prone skin with witch hazel, Stordahl opines, “Drying out skin with astringent ingredients, like witch hazel, can lead it to create more oil to compensate, triggering acne and leaving skin even oilier than before.” Sethi recommends using witch hazel only after diluting it as “ it may cause irritation or dryness.” She suggests considering going for a patch test around the neck first, and in case no redness or irritation surfaces, you can apply it on the face. 

“Apply it after using a cleanser to re-balance the skin’s pH; after you’ve washed your face thoroughly, pat it dry with a soft cloth and then apply a witch hazel toner before layering a moisturising cream or serum,” recommends Mittal Gupta, who is against consuming witch hazel orally. “It can be helpful to seek a skincare professional or dermatologist to guide you in choosing the best products for your skin,” concludes Marks.

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