How far can collagen-boosting products go to help your skin and body?

Collagen is a protein found in the body that acts as a building block for healthy, glowing skin. To what extent does ingesting it help?  

The beauty industry is infamous for making a new ingredient a trending buzzword. For the longest time, hyaluronic acid held prime position, followed by lesser-known ingredients like ceramides, niacinamide, salicylic acid, peptides and the likes. As the skincare ingredient glossary became more accessible, a myriad of elements that also occur naturally in our body—think hyaluronic acid, antioxidants, ceramides and lipids—have taken the spotlight. One such ingredient is collagen, a protein found in the body that acts as a building block for healthy, glowing skin. In fact, collagen makes for 30 per cent of the protein in your entire body, while it makes for 70 per cent of protein for your skin alone. 

Today, collagen has surfaced as a popular ingredient in the beauty and wellness industry. While it’s a key component of serums and creams such as the Biossance Squalane + Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum, The Inkey List Collagen Booster and the Higher Dose Glow Serum, it’s also made its way to a plethora of ingestible supplements—Nutrova, Wellbeing Nutrition, Skinade and Vital Proteins are a few examples. The hashtag #collagen features over 9.8 million posts on Instagram, and boasts over 3.6 billion views on TikTok. If that doesn’t stand as a testament to collagen’s hype, it can also be spotted on the vanity shelves of celebrities like Jennifer Anniston, Kelly Ripa and the Kardashian sisters. But what can the consumption of collagen—topically or as ingestibles—do for your skin? We ask three skincare professionals to weigh their opinions.

Why is collagen essential?

“Collagen is a natural protein available in the skin that gives it integrity, strength and structure; it behaves like scaffolding and hence makes the skin plump and wrinkle-free,” says Dr Akanksha Sanghvi, aesthetic dermatologist and founder, Oprava Aesthetics. Explaining the significance of collagen—which contributes to about one-third of the body’s protein composition—Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Madhuri Agarwal says, “Collagen works as an essential, robust support network that provides elasticity and firmness to the skin; it helps the skin produce new cells and replace old dead cells. It prevents the skin from tearing but also prevents sagging. Additionally, it provides structure and strength to various parts of the body, such as the bones, tendons and cartilage, says Dr Jaishree Sharad, celebrity dermatologist and author, The Skincare Answer Book.

Collagen isn’t just a requisite for ideal skin health—your body needs it too. “It is a key component of bone tissues, providing the framework for minerals like calcium to strengthen bones; it helps maintain bone density and prevents fractures. For the joints, collagen is found in the cartilage, which cushions and protects the ends of bones and allows for smooth movement and helps prevent joint pain and stiffness. It also supports the structure of various organs, for example, it helps maintain the integrity of blood vessels, the heart and the digestive tract. Lastly, while muscle tissues are primarily composed of different proteins called actin and myosin, collagen is present in the connective tissues that surround and support muscles, helping with alignment and functioning,” explains Sharad. 

What causes the depletion of collagen?

The first term you’ll come across on most collagen-infused products is ‘collagen-boosting’. This is because the natural collagen of our body begins to deplete by one per cent every year, starting from one’s early twenties, informs Agarwal. “At a younger age, the collagen production is higher than the breakdown, but with time, the process is reversed and the breakdown of collagen is more than its production,” says the skincare expert. “This is due to factors such as biological ageing, genetics wherein certain people might age slower than others, and external factors like smoking, stress, excessive sun exposure, as well as a diet high in carbohydrates, sugar and similar inflammatory foods. These triggers cause an inflammatory response leading to the activation of the immune system, DNA damage and generation of free radicals that can eventually precipitate the collagen depletion.” Along the same lines, Sharad mentions that stress, hormonal changes like decreased estrogen levels during menopause and environmental factors like pollution can also contribute to the loss of collagen. However, is it possible to boost the production of collagen, after it has begun to deplete in your body? Yes, believe all the experts, in consensus. 

Topical products versus ingestible supplements 

If you are considering boosting the levels of collagen in your body, three avenues worth considering include topical serums, ingestible supplements and in-office treatments. “Some skincare products contain ingredients like retinoids, peptides, vitamin C, and growth factors that can help stimulate the production of collagen within the skin. These ingredients work by sending signals to skin cells to produce more collagen. This can lead to improved skin texture, reduced appearance of fine lines, and enhanced skin firmness,” explains Sharad.

However, remember that while topically applied products containing these ingredients can support collagen production within the skin itself, they do not directly boost collagen levels in the deeper layers of the body. Agarwal agrees, saying, “Topical collagen creams do not work [to boost collagen production] as collagen is structurally located deep in the skin and they do not penetrate to that layer as collagen is a heavy molecule.” Deep-layer penetration and delivery to the dermis are key factors in promoting the efficacy of a topical collagen product. However, topical products with the right set of ingredients still make for a noteworthy choice, if you account for their maintenance properties.

On the other hand, ingestible supplements can be a convenient way to provide your body with specific nutrients that support collagen production and overall skin health, opines Sharad. “However, whether or not they are a better solution depends on individual needs, preferences and circumstances,” states the dermatologist. “Supplements can provide a concentrated dose of specific nutrients like collagen peptides, vitamin C, and amino acids that are directly involved in collagen synthesis while being easier to incorporate into your routine as well as track the intake.” Research has also concluded that hydrolysed collagen can help improve skin hydration and skin elasticity and hence improve the appearance of fine lines when consumed daily for 4-12 weeks, mentions Sanghvi. Agarwal is in favour of collagen powder and liquids over pills as they are usually tasteless and can be easily added to your everyday meals. “The powder formats are simple to use and more variety [in terms of flavour and ingredient profile] is available. Pills, on the other hand, have limited approved options and 6-8 pills have to be taken at a time for any noticeable results,” she explains.

As far as in-clinic treatments are concerned, dermatologists vote for common skin-enhancing options like microneedling, platelet-rich plasma (PRP) and chemical peels. Additionally, Sanghvi recommends opting for RadioFrequency Skin Tightening and Profhilo Treatment. “Radio-frequency or RF uses thermal energy that is delivered into the skin using a handheld device; this thermal energy heats the deeper layers of the skin and helps form collagen. In the case of Profhilo, the purest form of hyaluronic acid is injected into the skin which works on two levels—firstly, it instantly improves skin hydration and secondly, it stimulates the formation of collagen and elastin over the next few weeks.”

The final takeaway

Not everyone needs to worry about actively boosting collagen production, as the need can vary based on individual factors. “While collagen-boosting strategies can be beneficial for those concerned about skin health, it’s important to note that a holistic approach to overall well-being contributes to collagen maintenance,” suggests Sharad. “Boosting collagen should be a multi-level approach starting with a good diet and an exercise routine to counter the free radical damage, sun protection to prevent early breakdown and consistent use of skincare products and prompt in-clinic treatments as and when needed,” concludes Agarwal.

Also Read: 8 products to boost your skin’s collagen production

Also Read: Can adaptogens in skincare products regulate the body’s stress response system?

Also Read: Do gold, pearls and silver in skincare formulations really benefit your skin?