Here’s how you can avoid sunscreen pilling

While sunscreen pilling equals to a waste of money, time and product, preventing this adversity is easier than you think

We’ve all had those days when on a bright and sunny morning, your sunscreen begins to pill just as you’ve stepped out of the house. The very dollop of sunscreen that is meant to keep your skin protected from the sun ends up nullifying the preceding products of your skincare routine, as soon as it begins to pill. Before you declare your skin–or the particular sunscreen that you’re using–as the problem, you must know that this [sunscreen pilling] is a universal problem. We speak to a dermatologist as well as makers of the product in question to know more about sunscreen pilling and keeping it at bay. 

What causes sunscreen pilling? 

When layered over certain skincare products, there is a possibility that the sunscreen won’t seamlessly blend in, and instead might break down on the skin, leading to small, scattered bumps of product, which refers to pilling. Needless to say, it negates the step—as though you never wore sunscreen in the first place. A bunch of factors can spawn pilling, from the formulations of your skincare products interfering with one another to the way you apply them.

Encapsulating the causes, Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Jaishree Sharad covers layering skin products in an improper sequence and a poorly formulated or expired sunscreen. “Sunscreens with silicones, iron oxide, talc and mica tend to pill more, plus applying sunscreen over make-up or not allowing it to fully absorb [into the skin] before you go in with make-up can also stimulate pilling,” says the skin expert.

Along the same lines, Karishma Kewalramani, founder of homegrown beauty brand FAE Beauty, whose popular sunscreen is called SPF Juice, says, “Sunscreens particularly pill when the product is not sufficiently absorbed by the epidermis, causing the excess product on the skin to stick together and ball up to form flakes. This can happen because of a number of reasons—using a heavy moisturiser, for instance.” 

Formulation and the sequence of application

There are a plethora of facets that come into play when it comes to sunscreen pilling; however, the ingredient complex and order of application are the two prime ones. Talking about the physical sunscreen versus chemical sunscreen debate, Kewalramani says, “Physical formulas can have a higher mineral content and can lead to pilling—especially when they’re excessively rubbed onto the skin. This is because such [physical, or mineral] sunscreens lay on the surface of the skin, whereas chemical formulas are absorbed into the skin.”

However, Sharad is of the opinion that pilling can occur with both mineral and chemical sunscreens. For Kewalramani, hybrid sunscreens emerge as clear winners, in this case. “Hybrid sunscreens combine the UV-reflective properties of mineral actives and the UV-absorbing and altering abilities of chemical actives in one formula that prevents damage to the skin possibly more effectively than either type on its own. Since they contain a blend of chemical and physical filters, they tend to absorb more easily into the skin than a physical sunscreen, reducing the chances that they will pill,” she explains. 

Amalgamating the influence of both the formulation and the sequence, Kewalramani says, “Skincare products’ interactions with one another are greatly influenced by the order in which you layer them. Lighter, thinner products such as serums contain active ingredients with smaller molecular structures, while thicker products, like rich creams, contain ingredients with larger molecules. When products are applied incorrectly, the bigger molecules ingredients might prevent the smaller molecules ingredients from effectively soaking into the skin, rendering them ineffective and creating a thick, pasty coating that may cause sunscreen to pill.” Thus, following the golden rule of applying your skincare products from thinnest to thickest, can augment the absorption of each product, thereby minimising any interplay, which, in turn, diminishes the chances of mishaps like pilling, greasiness and inefficient absorption. 

Additionally, the texture of your skincare products and your skin type can also be silent dealbreakers. For instance, using a mineral (read: thick, onerous to absorb) sunscreen with a heavy moisturiser makes a strong case for sunscreen pilling. Similar effects can be assumed when a silicone-loaded sunscreen and mattifying foundation are applied on dry skin. It’s paramount for every product to sit well with another as well as complement your skin individually. 

Bookmark these tips 

Sharad believes that exfoliating your skin from time to time can be extremely beneficial, as it ensures decongested, unclogged pores that are free from gunk and grime. “Use a chemical exfoliator such as an AHA, a BHA or retinol twice or thrice a week,” she recommends, indicating her preference for chemical exfoliation over physical scrubs. Kewalramani emphasises well-cleansed skin before kickstarting your skincare routine and spreading the sunscreen gently on the skin instead of being aggressive. “Allow the sunscreen to get absorbed and wait for 20 minutes before applying make-up,” reinstates Sharad. 

Upon being asked if certain serums would meddle with the sunscreen, Sharad affirms, “There is no specific serum that can cause pilling. However, applying too much serum or layering it over a moisturiser can.” She advises keeping away from ingredients and petroleum, mineral oil or waxes that are not only perilous to the skin but also disrupt the wearing experience of your skincare products. Lastly, maintain a buffer of at least 30 seconds between every product of your skincare regimen for each to dry adequately before the next step.

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