If the infusion of a vegetable or fruit extract prompts you to shop for a skincare product, here’s what dermatologists want you to know
How many times have your mother or grandmother nudged you to use ingredients from the kitchen to begin a skincare or hair care routine? Whether it’s whipping up a banana and honey hair mask for softer locks, combining turmeric and sandalwood with yoghurt and besan for brighter skin or crushing neem leaves as a topical treatment for acne, there’s a traditional recipe for every beauty concern. So when a product thrives on the premise of being natural through the addition of fruit and vegetable extracts, it almost instantaneously piques the interest of consumers—not only in India but across the globe too.
From homegrown brands like Lakme and Forest Essentials to new-age international players like Youth To The People, Fresh Beauty, Glow Recipe, Farmacy, and Glowish, the global beauty market is now betting on the incorporation of fruits, vegetables and greens into their product formulations. While the natural beauty market, estimated at US$11.8 billion, is a tempting space for many brands, can fruit and vegetable extracts used in skincare products really offer any benefits?
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Youth To The People creates skincare products only using superfoods. Image: Instagram.com/youthtothepeople
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“Many fruits and vegetables contain chemical actives that contribute to skincare benefits,” says Dr Niketa Sonavane. Image: Pexels
Fruits and vegetables and skincare: The link
From berries and papaya to avocado and kale, all your favourite smoothie ingredients have made their way into serums and moisturisers. Why is this so? “Many fruits, vegetables, and greens contain chemical actives that contribute to skincare benefits,” says Mumbai-based dermatologist and founder of Ambrosia Aesthetics, Dr Niketa Sonavane. “For example, antioxidants such as vitamin C and flavonoids protect the skin from oxidative stress, whilst enzymes such as bromelain (found in pineapple) and papain (found in papaya) aid in exfoliation and brightening.” Berries are rich in antioxidants, bananas contain vitamins A, B and C, kale comprises lutein, avocados are rich in fatty acids, potatoes naturally contain azelaic acid, cucumbers feature astringent properties, watermelons encompass AHAs … the list can go on. This explains why brands resort to including such ingredients; not only can they monetise the presence of “natural” ingredients, but also promote that the products are packed with chemical active ingredients—a win-win.
Are the benefits significant?
From Glow Recipe’s cult-favourite Watermelon & Niacinamide Glow Drops to Glowish’s viral Wishful Yo Glow Enzyme Scrub, a slew of fruit- and vegetable-championing products have been vouched for by the global beauty community. However, the role of the fruit or vegetable is just a little more than that of a prop for the product images, in order to amplify them on social media.
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iS Clinical's cult-favoruite Hydra-Cool Serum comprises mushroom and Centella Asiatica extracts. Image: Instagram.com/isclinical
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With pomegranate extracts, Paula's Choice's Barrier Repair Advanced Moisturizer aims to tackle dryness and a weak barrier. Image: Instagram.com/paulaschoice
“While certain ingredients like papaya enzymes or antioxidants from berries may offer some benefits, the active percentages in these products can be low and inconsistent,” informs Dr Kiran Sethi, a New Delhi-based dermatologist and founder, Isya Aesthetics. “For example, fruits like watermelon have alpha hydroxy acid, but in a lower percentage. So, they’re just making the product sound pretty because it’s watermelon. You won’t get the benefits you’re hoping for from the watermelon in it.” We’ve all seen creams and serums mentioning certain percentages of ingredients like hyaluronic acid or salicylic acid, but has any product mentioned ‘2% watermelon’, for instance? Not that we can think of. Along the same lines, Sonavane says, “Skincare products containing greens, fruits, and vegetables can vary in their efficacy depending on not just the formulation or concentration of active ingredients but also individual skin type. While some may be ineffective or have minimal impact, others can indeed offer tangible benefits for the skin.”
Fall for it, but with caution
In the realm of skincare, products containing greens, fruits, and vegetables often tout their natural ingredients as beneficial, but in reality, many of these additives are more about marketing than efficacy, states Sethi. “For the most part, they’re gimmicky products. Still, look for scientifically backed ingredients, transparent labelling, and reputable brands with a track record of efficacy. Additionally, prioritise products with high concentrations of active ingredients and avoid those with excessive marketing hype around natural ingredients. As I said, you can always opt for a DIY face pack if you want to go completely natural,” recommends Sethi.
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Look for products with scientifically backed ingredients, transparent labelling, and reputable brands with a track record of efficacy, suggests Dr Kiran Sethi. Image: Pexels
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Certains fruits contain chemical actives such as papaya (enzymes) and watermelon (AHA). Image: Pexels
Lastly, if you are welcoming such products into your skincare routine, don’t forget to factor in your skin type and other products in your existing regime. “While these chemicals might provide several benefits, it’s important to remember that not all skincare products are suitable for everyone. Factors such as skin type, sensitivity, allergies, and individual reactions to specific ingredients can influence how well a product performs for an individual. Patch testing new products and keeping your dermatologist in the loop can help minimise adverse reactions,” suggests Sonavane. Moreover, different foods are known for different compounds. “Eating them or directly applying them to your skin will provide more benefits than using skin care products that claim to have them included,” concludes Sethi.
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