Do men and women *really* need different skincare products?

As we inch towards creating an “equal” world, we evaluate whether skincare needs to be addressed according to gender or concern

Pink for girls, blue for boys, women stay home, men go to work—the world has been conditioned by distinct societal gender norms for centuries now. For real change to take place, where one can be whoever they want to be and make choices without conforming to said norms, the freedom should reflect across every aspect of their lives. It’s likely that you grew up watching or noticing your father shower, do his hair and beard, and step out of the house. Your mother, on the other hand, at least used a face cream and possibly some make-up after, before she started her day. 

There’s not as many men we’ve seen who prioritised looking after their skin—it was largely a feminine thing, which is changing today. Multiple aisles of skincare products for men, moving past just hair and beard care, are filling up traditional beauty stores. Men are starting to care more about how their skin looks and feels, and how they can keep it fresh and healthy. “There is a growing appetite for skincare among Indian men, with 84 per cent agreeing that they care about their appearance just as much as women do, according to Mintel Global Consumer research,” observes Tanya Rajani, senior beauty & personal care analyst, Mintel Reports India. But the real question here is, do we need a separate men’s skincare section at all? Or can anyone use any skincare formulation, if it works for their skin type as opposed to an assigned gender? 

Marketing skincare to gender-specific groups

“Skincare products are often marketed and priced differently for men and women due to perceived gender preferences and societal expectations,” says Mini Sood Banerjee, assistant director and head of marketing and training, Amorepacific Group, which is responsible for bringing Korean beauty brands like Innisfree, Laneige, Etude House and Sulwhasoo to India. “Brands target specific demographics and create separate product lines to cater to these perceived differences. This marketing strategy is prevalent both in the Indian market and globally, although there has been a growing trend towards gender-neutral skincare products in recent years,” she adds.

Physical elements like packaging and fragrance are the clichés most brands adopt when distinguishing their products for different genders. “Fragrance preferences can differ between genders, and companies may create scents tailored to these preferences,” says celebrity dermatologist Dr. Jaishree Sharad. “Additionally, packaging and branding choices are often designed to align with societal expectations of masculinity or femininity, reflecting traditional gender roles and aesthetics. Traditionally, women have been the primary purchasers of skincare products, and marketing campaigns often feature feminine aesthetics, floral scents, and soft colours to align with societal beauty standards. On the other hand, marketing towards men may focus on concepts such as simplicity and effectiveness to appeal to their preferences.” Case in point, the 3-in-1 face wash, body wash and shampoo for men. 

We evaluated skincare brand Clinique’s offerings: The pink-coloured Moisture Surge™ 100H Auto-Replenishing Hydrator and the blue coloured For Men™ Maximum Hydrator 72-Hour Auto-Replenishing Hydrator. Upon comparing their extensive ingredient lists, we found that the formula is exactly the same, barring the fact that the former has three different types of aloe extracts instead of just one in the blue formulation, which may be the reason why it promises 100 hours of hydration as opposed to 75. Yet, the brand retails them as two different products, in colours that are traditionally associated with females and males. While the brand was unavailable to comment on this finding, it’s likely that when they first launched the range specifically for men in 2008, they weren’t as comfortable using products they’ve traditionally seen women buy. Today, Clinique extensively collaborates with influencers across genders to help promote their iconic moisturiser—the pink tub, that is—for everyone, and every skin type. 

Sharad attributes the difference in marketing and pricing to a host of factors apart from societal perceptions and norms. If you’ve noticed that a basic skincare product marketed to women is more expensive than a similar product created for men, this is why. “Skincare companies base their pricing strategies on market demand and willingness among consumers to pay. Gender-specific products can be positioned as specialised, justifying higher prices. Furthermore, market research may indicate that men and women have different purchasing patterns or priorities, influencing pricing decisions. However, it's important to note that these marketing and pricing differences are not necessarily reflective of actual scientific variations in skin needs between genders,” she explains.

According to senior cosmetic dermatologist Dr. Chytra Anand, the price point variations also occur due to behavioural differences between the genders. “There is the assumption that men prefer simplistic, functional products, while women desire indulgent and intricate routines. Men also tend to be more loyal to a product or brand. Once they find products that they like, they don’t switch whereas women tend to try more brands and be open to switching between products.”

Gendered skincare and popular culture

Popular culture depicts this shift to skincare becoming gender neutral more today than ever before. There’s a viral meme on the Internet about how after getting into a relationship or marriage men start to use their female partner’s products. If Victoria Beckham and David Beckham can swear by the same under-eye mask— the celebrity-loved 111Skin Celestial Black Diamond Eye Masks—so can the rest of us. A quick snapshot of the infamous Kendall Roy on television show Succession gives us a peek into this bathroom shelf which features Augustinus Bader’s iconic The Cream, priced at approximately ₹ 24,000 for a 50ml bottle.

Mens’ grooming influencers in India, like Riaan George and Rizwan Bachav, are very comfortable talking about their favourite products, which don’t just include those targeted to men. The Netflix series XO, Kitty, based in South Korea, has a typical alpha male, casanova-like character named Min Ho. On multiple occasions over the season, he expresses his annoyance about the female lead stealing his hand creams and serums, and another time, asks a male friend if he’s up to get some fried chicken and use a sheet mask—a refreshing change from most shows that depict their straight male lead as one who sprays ten people worth of perfume on himself and runs out the door. “Skincare in South Korea is not heavily gendered, and men in the country often enjoy having skincare routines as much as women.” confirms Banerjee.

Do men and women need different skincare?

While there may be subtle biological differences in skin structure and hormonal fluctuations, Anand emphasises that the fundamental principles of skincare remain the same for both men and women. The basic steps of cleansing, moisturising, and sun protection apply to all individuals. While oiliness and acne are often considered to be a prominent concern for men, they are also issues for a large chunk of women. “Men typically have higher sebum production due to higher androgen (male hormone) levels,” explains Sharad. “This can lead to oilier skin and potentially more prominent pores. Women's sebum production may vary with hormonal fluctuations, such as during the menstrual cycle. Products that help control excess oil or provide oil-free formulations may be beneficial for individuals with oilier skin, regardless of gender.” 

Everybody ages, so anti-ageing products are essential for all individuals when they reach a certain age, some may simply need to start on them before others.“Men's skin tends to be thicker compared to women's. It has a higher collagen density, which gives it a firmer appearance and may delay the onset of wrinkles. Women's skin, on the other hand, is generally thinner and more prone to showing signs of ageing earlier. However, the difference in thickness does not necessarily require different skincare products,” explains Sharad.

Oiliness or signs of ageing, a product made to address either of these concerns can work for everyone, gender no bar. Banerjee shares that while Innisfree has a separate line of products for men, their unisex (in terms of marketing) Super Volcanic range has a significantly high number of male consumers since it controls sebum, decreases pores and improves skin texture. Indian skincare brands that have garnered a loyal customer base like d’you, RAS Luxury Oils and Dr. Sheth’s, all promote their products in a gender-neutral way, asking consumers to think of their skin type when shopping, and nothing else. Meanwhile, skincare brand Aesop can be found on shelves without a gender bias. It is in actor Margot Robbie’s handbag and all over social media strategist and content creator Alexander Atkins’ (Mr. Essentialist on Instagram) digital feed. 

Challenging societal norms

Dermatologists are likely the largest group of people globally who speak to men on a daily basis about their skin concerns. When asked about the growth in terms of mens’ willingness to use skincare, Anand says, “Cultural conditioning and societal expectations often influence male behaviour, leading to hesitancy or scepticism towards adopting extensive skincare regimens. With the increasing availability of gender-neutral skincare products and the rise of men's grooming, many men are embracing skincare practices and demonstrating similar compliance levels to their female counterparts.”

“The unisex skincare industry plays a role in challenging societal norms and stereotypes associated with beauty and self-care,” says Banerjee. “It encourages individuals of all genders to embrace and prioritise their skincare routines as an essential part of overall well-being. The skincare industry has also seen a rise in gender-neutral packaging and marketing, with a focus on inclusivity and catering to individual needs. Simplified routines and ingredient transparency are key factors driving the growth of this industry.” Sharad adds, “Ultimately, individual variations in skin type, concerns, and personal preferences should guide the selection of skincare products, rather than strictly adhering to gender-based marketing.”

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