Why kaftans are no longer only for the beach

Over two years since the pandemic-induced need for comfortable clothing, kaftans continue to remain a wardrobe favourite

Since March 2020, as we spent more time at home attending Zoom meetings, we traded our jeans and office attire for loungewear and co-ord sets. But the one item of clothing to emerge as a winner during the pandemic has been the billowy kaftan. Owing to its roominess and the functionality of its silhouette, the kaftan has now cemented itself as a staple in almost every woman’s closet.

Comfort first

Actor Kareena Kapoor Khan’s infamous #kaftanseries on Instagram has inspired many to go online and add kaftans to their shopping carts. Even Malaika Arora, who, thanks to her bestie ‘Bebo,’ swapped her gym wear for comfy kaftans. So what made kaftans go from being just ‘nighties’ that mums used to wear, to being hailed as a wardrobe must-have by celebrities? Sakshi Sinha, creative director of Saundh India, credits this popularity to the garment’s adaptability. “Kaftans are so versatile that they can be styled any way you want and can be worn anytime now. The kaftan’s biggest boon is that it is a silhouette-free style and hence it has become more of a fashion choice now,” says Sinha, whose floral printed kaftans have been a favourite among content creators like Rasna Bhasin, Juhi Godambe and Sakshi Sidwani.

It’s not just versatility of this piece of clothing that has struck a chord with many, it’s also the shifting mindset of consumers that has added to the famed status of the kaftans. “Consumers have become a lot more self-aware and conscious of their buying needs. Earlier, how one looked in a particular outfit would take precedence, but now it’s the quality of the fabric, the fit, and most importantly, comfort that is the primary deciding factor when buying clothes. And kaftans are a great example as they are flowy and fluid,” says Sarang Singla, founder and managing director of clothing label Charkhee. While kaftans became the most comfortable work-from-home uniform, Indian designers gave it a super stylish makeover.

From lounge to festive

The silhouette of the free-flowing kaftan dates back to the Ottoman Sultans and the Moroccan dignitaries around the 15th century who wore them in luxurious silks with ornate beading. It was designers such as Christian Dior and Cristobal Balenciaga who introduced kaftans to the West in the 1950s as evening gowns and robes. Tom Ford gave it a sexy mini version during his years at Gucci, in 1996. Over the last few decades, the kaftan took a backseat from high-fashion runway collections, and instead became associated with resort wear.

But fast forward to the present day, designers have taken upon themselves to restore kaftans to their former glory, from being just loungewear or resortwear to a festive pick. From Tarun Tahiliani to Anamika Khanna, most Indian couture designers have their own interpretation of kaftans for formal occasions. Sureena Chowdhari’s muslin embroidered version and Payal Khandwala’s silk one have been spotted on actor and activist Dia Mirza, while Saaksha & Kinni’s abstract print kaftans have found fans in Karisma Kapoor and Mira Kapoor. On the red carpet, actress Andie McDowell attended an event at the Cannes Film Festival last month in an orange-and-yellow watercolour print kaftan. Actor and comedian Maya Rudolph wore an orange feathered kaftan by Valentino at the Oscars earlier this year.

“Kaftans have come a long way from just an oversized cover-up to evolving into a glitzy, chic, must-have silhouette,” says Saaksha Bhat of Saaksha & Kinni. The designer duo have given kaftans a sexier upgrade by including prints and textures to lend them a bohemian vibe. “The kaftans we design have one thing in common—they are made from soft fabric and have to be comfortable. To make them sexy and chic, we have added hand-embroidery detailing, lower cuts along the neck area, dual-sided slits that are customisable depending on how risqué the client wants to go, and adjustable sleeves and waist to ensure the customer can accentuate as much or as little of her curves as she desires,” says Bhat. Even Charkhee, whose collections incorporate a minimalist design aesthetic, have kaftans for every occasion. “Our loungewear kaftans are made of 100 per cent linen, while our festive-wear kaftans are made from chanderi with embedded mirror-work on them,” says Singla.

As designers experiment with fabrics and embellishments, the appeal of kaftans remains in the ease it provides to women of every age and size.

One size fits all

Kaftans came as a breath of fresh air when most of us turned to loungewear during the pandemic, but since then have been reimagined and redesigned to appeal to women of every age and size. Bollywood mommies-to-be, too, love a good kaftan. Sonam Kapoor Ahuja showed off her baby bump in a sheer number by Fil De Vie. Neha Dhupia leveled up her maternity style with Payal Singhal’s printed and tasselled kaftans. Even Anushka Sharma posted a throwback picture of her with her bump in a black printed kaftan. “The fact that I have seen my mother, grandmother and aunts wear kaftans when I was little and now I see young millennial and Gen-Z women wearing dressier versions of the garment is a testament to the versatility, and evergreen nature of, the kaftan,” says designer Ritu Kumar. “Unlike other silhouettes that are more form-fitting, women oftentimes are conscious of how the outfit looks on them. Kaftans offer this liberation from constantly thinking about how one is looking,” explains Kumar, who has reimagined kaftans into flowy maxi dresses which are perfect for the summer.

While its one-size-fits-all mantra may appeal to mothers and mature women, Bhat insists that kaftans aren’t restricted to any specific age group. “Surprisingly we have found that our customer base for kaftan varies in age. We have women in their 20s buying lower cut, off-the-shoulder kaftans, women in their 30s buying kaftans with mid-thigh slits, and women in an older age bracket choosing kaftans with touches of embroidery or hand micro-pleating,” she says. Sinha asserts that while kaftans extend to appeal to every age group, it’s how you make it suitable for your body that makes it unique to every person. “Different people can style their look differently to suit their personal style. You can style it with or without a belt, wear heels or flats. This is what makes a kaftan so inclusive and something more than just a trend, because it can be evolved into so many different looks,” she says.

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