What will “re-emergence fashion” really look like?

Mindfully blurring the divide between occasion wear and everyday attire, post-pandemic dressing is all about embracing the in-between

We’ve all oscillated between two extremes through the Covid-19 pandemic–strict lockdowns on the one hand and a surreal, celebratory state of affairs on the other. While the former had us retreating to the roominess of loungewear, the latter made us reach for elaborate outfits. This back and forth, with a lack of middle ground, can get exhausting for even the most accommodating individual, and leads us to an important question: Like several other areas of our life, is our wardrobe, too, in need of a hybrid model that balances the lessons the pandemic taught us with what we continue to cherish from life as we knew it? We asked designers and stylists–who imbibe what we’d like to call an in-between aesthetic–to share their thoughts.

Let’s take a minute to talk about “re-emergence” fashion, or looks built around the idea that our ability to step out again is an occasion in itself. So far, this concept has been synonymous with a “more-is-more” approach. Think sequins during the day, colours reminiscent of rainbows and loud, busy prints. “After two years of close to no occasions, there is a boom in excess and maximalism among a lot of consumers. An over-compensation for lost time, if you will,” says celebrity stylist Divyak D’souza.

However, is the version of re-emergence we’ve seen so far, a realistic representation of what our post-pandemic needs will look like? Most of us will admit that the initial enthusiasm we experience can be short-lived and difficult to sustain. It’s not long before we start noticing the rigid, unbudging waistlines of our jeans and start craving the ease we’ve gotten acclimatised to over the course of the last two years.

It is believed that moderation is about never giving up, or fully giving in, and maybe that’s the solution to this conundrum. “Post-pandemic dressing will draw from both the loungewear we’ve loved and the pieces we’ve revenge-shopped recently. It will be comfortable and chic at the same time,” says Bhumika Ahluwalia, co-founder of Mishé–a sustainable label that befriends balance. Her collections, defined by detailed and deconstructed pieces crafted using eco-friendly fabrics, cater to both the practicality we’ve come to love and an appetite for outfits that uplift our spirits. If you look closely, you’ll discover an increasing number of designers that make the in-between easy to incorporate by deftly blurring the divide between occasion wear and everyday attire.

New Delhi-based Lovebirds, founded by Gursi Singh and Amrita Khanna, is another example. A quick scroll through their Instagram reveals highlighter hues and clever cut-outs on silhouettes that don’t thrive on trends but transcend them. “Our design ethos has been focused on pieces that cross the barriers of size or age, can be worn in between seasons, occasions or even from day to evening. Our clothes are designed in a way that they can be dressed up or dressed down,” says Khanna, explaining that multifunctionality is a key ingredient of fashion that doesn’t adhere to extremes. “The idea is to have a wardrobe of pieces that can be mixed and matched to suit your lifestyle and aesthetic. I would wear the same thing to work and to a wedding. My go-to, for example, has been a humble, cream co-ord set made from handloom cotton. With a blazer and brogues it’s ideal for a summer wedding, and with a tote and Birkenstocks it’s the perfect outfit for running errands,” says D’souza.

While the idea of a wardrobe that embraces the in-between may seem simple at first, it can be tricky to put into practice. Sometimes, we have at hand an occasion that demands we dial up the drama. Are there any circumstances in which we can make an exception for extremes? “Extremes are good when it’s occasional. From a design point of view, I don’t think we should get rid of them because that’s what fantasy is. Clothes meant for occasions are important as they make you feel special and different to how you would on a regular day,” says designer Kanika Jain of Kanelle, a label known for its take on conscious clothing.

D’souza, whose personal style steers clear of an over-the-top aesthetic for the most part, doesn’t disagree. He finds that we can make room to indulge in extremes in the event of a milestone moment. “There is a special joy to custom-made couture for one-off special occasions like a wedding or a big celebration. Those are the moments where fashion plays a huge part in spreading joy and creating memories for a lifetime. One just needs to be mindful, not necessarily frugal,” he says.

After all, the balance we are seeking ultimately serves a bigger purpose. Other than combatting a state of confusion, it makes us more conscious consumers. “We live in uncertain times and making or buying clothes in large numbers is not the need of the hour. We all need to step back and rethink our purchases–they should not only cater to a given occasion but also be something that can be repeated several times,” adds Ahluwalia. Singh, the other half of the duo behind Lovebirds, has a similar point of view. “It’s time we become responsible for our sartorial choices. Post-pandemic dressing will be more conscious. It will be timeless, utilitarian, thoughtful and made of high-quality pieces that live with you longer,” he says.

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