Why has thrifting not caught on despite ‘sustainable fashion’ being a buzzword?

In a fashion climate where the chatter around sustainability is only getting louder, why are thrift stores still such a niche concept?

Fast fashion is the toxic boyfriend of ready-to-wear. For a consumer with limited disposable income to spend on a gorgeous dress that doesn’t look like anything currently on their Instagram feed, it hits. It gives them the trend they're jonesing for, on the polypropylene-shoestring budget they’ve allocated to it. It’s ideal, but only if you can put your conscience aside. 

But since the late-noughties, that conscience has perhaps become harder to waylay. The more undeniable the damage caused by fast fashion, the stronger the collective moral compass of Indian fashion becomes. It presents in myriad ways—from concerted efforts to make production and packaging practices smarter, less wasteful, and more mindful, to greenwashing just enough to appear that way to the consumer who cares. Sustainability has mushroomed from an afterthought to a word that has seeped into the mainstream enough to be unignorable, no matter what a brand’s reaction to it might be. And, with an expected growth at a CAGR of 10.6 per cent  between 2021-2026, a sustainable approach to fashion seems here to stay. 

A slow rise

The sustainable brand has many faces—from employing organic cotton to being vegan to only using recycled materials. And for the consumer with the ability (and desire) to pay the premium, the payoff is worth it. Purchase mindfully, ethically; purchase quality. But the beating heart of sustainable, slow fashion remains preservation—from DIY upcycling to repair-and-reuse and, more importantly, thrifting. The practice of buying ‘pre-loved’ seems a go-to choice on multiple fronts in a sustainability-centric fashion climate. Yet, in India, it feels about as niche as Dollcore. 

“It’s definitely niche in India,” says Carol Humtsoe, founder of Carol’s Shop, adding that “it is growing in certain pockets of the country and it has the potential to grow more through word-of-mouth and social media.” 

Ishita Bajaj, co-founder of The Revival Pile, believes it's a little less niche than the last decade, crediting a shift to the pandemic-induced lockdown. “Thrift boomed during the pandemic,” she says. “It was the double whammy of not having access to brick-and-mortar stores and the ban imposed on Shein.” Dennis Hauzel, founder of Bygone Echoes, can corroborate this theory.”Compared to three-four years ago, a lot more people are exposed to thrifting because they spend more time online, which includes shopping. I remember when I started my store in January 2020, very few people even knew what thrifting was. Now, you’ll find hundreds of thrift stores, across Instagram alone.”

The concept caught on fast, but there was fear amongst thrift-store owners when the lockdown eased (and rumours of Shein returning began) that the boom was temporary. “But thrifting stuck with its consumers—a demographic of about 18-30 years,” Bajaj says. 

It’s generational

There seems to be a consensus on the idea that thrifting is for the young. “Gen Z and younger millennials” make up the bulk of thrift buyers, and while stylist and creative director Surbhi Shukla wouldn’t want to make a blanket statement, it feels like a concept that doesn’t land quite the same way with Gen X and Boomers. “I think it has to do with the way they approach investing in pieces and how they shop. Thrifting isn’t part of mall culture, especially in tier-two and tier-three cities. It isn’t often accessible; you need to go looking for it, and I don’t think Gen X and the older demographic does that. It also works the other way around—thrift stores, visually, are geared to a younger audience. Their mediums are younger, primarily Instagram, for instance,” shares Shukla.  

Bajaj can even narrow it down to regions .“I can’t speak for other thrift stores, but when we analysed our data, we found the most customers in the southern part of the country (Bengaluru, Chennai), Punjab and the North East. Somewhat younger consumer bases than other states,” she says.  

A lack of exposure also factors in, Yashna Malik, co-founder of The Revival Pile, believes. “The demographic beyond 30-35 years don’t always know what thrifting is, how it functions, what its benefits are. And then there’s the wrinkling of the nose about the clothes being second-hand, or the  idea of spending money on clothes that are used.” 

The ‘second-hand’ stigma

The idea of wearing someone else’s clothes runs two ways—incredibly cool or ‘not for us’. Labels like ‘pre-loved’ might uplift the idea, but to the consumer that stands firm on buying fresh-off-the-mill garments, as it does little to sell the idea of thrifting. “Based on my experiences doing pop-ups across Delhi, I’ve noticed that people who are really wealthy or in the societal ‘upper class’ are a bit sceptical about thrifting or buying previously-worn clothing,” says Hauzel. “I've had people get creeped out or make faces after they've been told the items are worn or are second-hand.” 

Sacha Mendes, founder of Sacha’s Shop, agrees with Humtsoe. “I've met quite a few people that still view pre-loved clothing as unglamorous, second-hand, and sometimes even inauspicious!” mentions Mendes, with Humtsoe adding, “People’s beliefs are definitely part of the reason; certain groups can’t subscribe to the idea of wearing second-hand clothes and the reasons often link back to personal or spiritual beliefs” 

‘Sustainably-made’ versus thrifted

“Slow fashion comes at a cost,” says Shukla. “But the people that can afford it will often buy from sustainable fashion brands as opposed to thrift stores because they’re still buying new pieces. There’s a degree of overlap between the thrift-store consumer and the consumer buying from sustainably-made brands, but not very much.” 

Mendes also believes it’s a concerted effort on the part of the sustainably-made brand, and their marketing. “I think the subliminal message when selling aspirational products and fashion is that they are ‘brand-new’ and ‘created from a fresh perspective’—new ideas, new patterns, never-seen-before…This makes it harder for thrift stores to take over the fashion retail scene at the moment.” 

Hauzel attributes it to the desire to be sustainable without actually looking into what kind of consumption has more impact. “Pre-loved clothes were made (often) years ago, and are passed down and reworn. Just the fact that sustainably-made clothes are new, and require production and processes in itself has infinitely a greater impact on the environment than buying pre-loved clothing, even if it’s made-to-order. But the desire for newness counts for more to that customer.” 

“For a lot of Gen Z that buys fast fashion because it’s price-effective, thrifting works,” says Malik. “It gives them cool clothes at the same prices that they’d find at Zara or H&M, but the key difference is what they’re after. If they’re after unique pieces or vintage clothing or accessories, then thrifting is just the ticket. But it doesn’t always work if what they’re after are trends.”

Navigating a trend-based market

In a fashion landscape geared toward trends, how does the kaleidoscopic nature of the thriftverse fit in? Is there an inherent ‘alt’-ness to thrifting that cannot be shaken simply because it can never be as cyclical as changing fashion seasons? “I think thrifting runs parallel to the mainstream. That's what makes it interesting, or desirable,” says Mendes.

“At the same pop-ups where people wrinkle their noses, many others are fascinated, and very open to trying a new way of shopping, to being exposed to clothing you can’t find at a mall,” Hauzel chimes in.

In a trend-driven market, thrifting is an afterthought. “I style celebrities and do independent projects, and there has never once been a request to incorporate thrifted clothing in a shoot.” Shukla recalls.  

What needs to change

Preconceived notions about preloved clothes notwithstanding, there are other reasons thrifting still feels niche. For one, it seems harder work than buying fresh from brands that will deliver seamlessly and guarantee fit and quality. A better shopping experience would go a long way, or so Shukla has found. “I’ve had situations where a piece I’ve ordered from a thrift store has been delayed for three weeks. Or, in some cases, cancelled altogether. Streamlining processes and giving shoppers a better experience would help them give it more of a chance.” 

Hauzel, Malik and Bajaj can instantly pinpoint two possible changemakers—influencer endorsement and an increase in brick-and-mortar stores. “You very rarely see influencers tagging and endorsing thrift stores on their feeds, even if they wear thrifted clothes. The one time I remember an influencer tagging a thrift store, their following quadrupled overnight. If they care about sustainable fashion, they could really use the power they have to normalise it,” believes Bajaj. 

Malik mentions that to some people, nothing replaces the experience of shopping at a brick-and-mortar store, and that's where a lot of Instagram thrift stores lose out. “Just being able to set up stores where people could see and feel the merchandise would help thrift culture immensely,” adds Malik. Hauzel agrees, “I would really love to see more physical stores—and maybe regular pop-up events all over the country—so more people are exposed to the idea of thrifting.”

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