These indie fashion labels are bringing Indian crafts, textiles and silhouettes to the fore

A number of new brands are encouraging consumers to make mindful purchases in order to spotlight what the country has to offer–and there is a market for it

Between ardent lovers of fast fashion who turn to high-street brands for elevated and everyday wear, and purveyors of luxury who only shop the most coveted styles from high-end brands, lies a cohort of consumers that revel in discovering lesser-known, indie labels. More often than not, they opt to buy from smaller, under-the-radar brands to maintain a distinct sense of style and individuality. Sometimes, they do so to support growing businesses, talent and craft. To cater to this growing market, more and more indie labels are turning the spotlight on tailoring techniques, silhouettes, choice of textiles and embroideries indigenous to India. We speak to the directors of four such brands to understand more.   

More than just a purchase

The term ‘feel-good factor’ extends beyond how the garment sits on the wearer. Instead, it’s focused on how one feels after making a certain purchase, knowing that they’re supporting a potentially endangered form of craft. More and more consumers are becoming conscious about the kind of garments they buy. The mother-daughter duo of the label Ashtar–Manju and Saumya Lulla–share that a large percentage of their buyers are “environmentally conscious” and “prioritise paying for quality over quantity.” By working closely with women artisans and craft clusters across the country, they seamlessly incorporate techniques such as the Parsi gara embroidery, ajrakh and bandhani into modern silhouettes.

Similarly, Manorath Dhillon, creative director and CEO at Okhai, mentions that each purchase made at the brand “directly impacts someone’s life in a good way” explaining that via the money generated through their craft, artisans are able to send their children to school and establish social equity. As the simple act of shopping becomes more altruistic , buyers frequently come back to labels for their “authenticity” and as a way to “do good in the world,” says Dhillon. Consumers are also frequently on the hunt for “something they can’t find on-the-go”, adds Aanchal Arora of Corpora Studio. The label’s creative director hints at buyers investing in pieces that are unconventional and stand out. 

Steering clear of fads

For indie labels, carving a niche of their own is of the utmost importance. By steering clear of momentary fads and trend-driven clothing, they work towards being timeless. Pranav Guglani of the label Cord cites relevancy as the “biggest part of the job.” He tells us that by combining techniques like hand-smocking and block-printing with simple, clean silhouettes, they strive to produce pieces that are innovative yet classic. In a bid to nurture these very techniques, the team at Okhai “actively reaches out to communities whose crafts are dying,” says Dhillon. By investing in wardrobe staples that are rich in Indian embroidery or those that are made using Indian textiles, customers are able to champion an art form that was once held in the highest regard. Manorath also lets us in on how up until the 1970s, Indian textiles and craft were always very fashion forward, leading to most of the West manufacturing and importing textiles and crafts from us. A sudden need to be more global caused a “dilution in aesthetics,” she says. 

Asking the right questions

An increasingly large number of shoppers are opting for labels that leave a large mark on closets but a small one on the ecosystem. Saumya Lulla notices a “gradual change from fast fashion to slow, with buyers valuing transparency in the supply chain and production cycles.” Alongside not wanting to wear what everyone else is, consumers also want to support local talent mindfully. Similar to the West that celebrates all things ‘handcrafted in India’, there are buyers who take pride in “contributing to the success of homegrown brands,” says Dhillon.

The future of fashion, concludes Guglani, lies in “discarding fast-paced and trend-based collections” and becoming more accepting of inexpensive products that end up adding more value and durability to modern-day closets. As more and more indie labels carve a distinct yet concentrated niche, buyers value easy-wearing, unique styles and tailoring. More upcoming indie brands need to develop an understanding of the growing need for individuality, community and sustainability in fashion.

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