Why you should swap greasy skincare concoctions for dry oils

If you share a love-hate relationship with facial oils owing to their viscous, greasy properties, dry oil could be the best solution for you

Oils, especially those meant for the face, have the tendency to put off people more often than not. When you think of oil, a typically thick, gleaming film instantly comes to mind, prompting you to give the product a hard pass. While this category of oils has been significantly not-so-user-friendly—whether for the skin, hair or body—conventionally, things aren’t like they used to be. From lightweight, non-comedogenic facial oils to rich and potent blends that don’t create a greasy mess on the scalp, oils today are more convenient and indulgent than ever before. Besides adaptable formulations, there is a whole class of oils, dubbed as dry oils, that make the application and wear of an oil surprisingly comfortable. French beauty brand NUXE was amongst the first players to introduce a dry oil in the market. Today, a bottle of the brand’s cult Huile Prodigieuse is sold every 11 seconds across the globe, explaining the extent to which beauty enthusiasts have embraced this concept. 

We reach out to experts in the skincare industry who give us a lowdown on  why dry oils make a worthy addition to your skincare vanity.

What is dry oil?

While the term ‘dry oil’ can come across as antithetical, the product is exactly that—it brings together the nourishment of an oil with a much-coveted weightless finish that lets you forget that you’re wearing any oil. “Dry oil is a type of lightweight oil that absorbs quickly into the skin without leaving a greasy or oily residue. Unlike conventional oils, dry oils have a lighter texture,” says Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Jaishree Sharad. “They are called dry because they do not feel heavy, making them suitable for all skin types, including oily or combination skin.”

According to Dr Madhuri Agarwal, Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist and founder of Yavana Aesthetics, dry oil is not actually an oil, but features the properties of an oil while getting absorbed quickly in the skin. “Dry oils are usually polyunsaturated fatty acids, made of lighter chains with linoleic acid in increased proportion” informs the skin expert. “They can be a blend of oils that the skin has an affinity for, like argan, squalane, sesame, grapeseed, avocado, safflower seed, sunflower seed, rose hip seed, evening primrose and olive oil,” says Jemy Dayrit, educator–Body & Spa at Moroccanoil, enumerating the commonly used ingredients in the making of dry oils. “Moroccanoil’s Dry Body Oil is blended with argan, olive and avocado oil, making it very nourishing for the skin. The hydrator leaves the skin feeling soft with the signature fragrances of the oil.”

Dry oil versus conventional oils

It’s fairly simple to tell the fundamental difference between a dry and wet oil; wet oils are more occlusive, thicker and oleaginous. However, there’s a bit more to the list of distinguishers that separates one from the other. Sharad apprises that more often than not, dry oils are made up of botanical (or plant-based) oils—think grapeseed oil, avocado oil, argan oil, rosehip oil, jojoba oil and so on—that lean towards a lightweight texture, even in their natural form, versus coconut oil that comprises up to 90 per cent of saturated fats. As a domino effect, the scope of usability of dry oil is much higher than typical coconut oil. 

Unlike conventional viscous oils, not only are dry oils compatible with most skin types and skin care products but are also versatile. “Thicker oils may be more limited in their use and primarily targeted for specific areas or concerns. On the contrary, dry oils can be used on the face, body and hair. They offer a multi-functional solution for hydration and nourishment,” believes Sharad. NUXE’s bestseller promotes exactly that—the name of the product includes the term ‘multipurpose’, and the low-on-viscosity texture makes it appropriate for hair, skin, body, nail and cuticle applications. Agarwal also opines that a dry oil is a perfect solution for someone who yearns for intense nourishment while residing in humid weather that is not cut out for the wear of heavy cosmetic products. 

In sync with your skincare routine

Besides the functionality and universal suitability (unless you’re allergic to any ingredients in a particular product) of dry oils, what also makes the product cop-worthy is its compatibility with your skincare routine. You don’t essentially have to switch things up in your skincare or make-up routine, in case you include a dry oil in them. “Dry oils are compatible with regular products like sunscreen and make-up,” says Agarwal. “But, avoid using it with make-up, especially in very humid weather if you have oily skin as it can cause some degree of clogging,” she warns. “Moroccanoil’s Dry Body Oil can be applied on damp skin after a shower. Some even apply it before drying the skin out with a towel to facilitate spreading the oil,” shares Dayrit.

Talking about how your hair can leverage a dry oil, Sharad says, “It can be applied to the ends of the hair to add shine, reduce frizz and moisturise dry or damaged strands. They can also be used as a pre-shampoo treatment or as a leave-in conditioner.” As far as make-up and skincare layering go, it’s not a tough nut to crack either. “ Dry oils can be layered with other facial oils or serums for a customised skincare ritual. Apply lighter, fast-absorbing products like dry oils first, followed by thicker oils or serums, allowing each layer to be absorbed before applying the next,” recommends Sharad. “Dry oils can be used as a make-up primer or mixed with foundation or concealer for a more luminous finish. However, it is essential to ensure compatibility with your specific make-up products. Some dry oils may work better with certain formulations, so perform a patch test or consult the product instructions for guidance.”

Lastly, make a choice between dry and wet oils after assessing your requirements. “Dry oils can provide moisture to the skin, but they may not be as intensely hydrating as heavier oils since they typically have a lighter consistency and are designed to provide a lightweight moisturising effect. For individuals with normal to oily skin or those who prefer a lighter texture, dry oils can be sufficient to fulfil their moisture needs. However, if you have very dry or dehydrated skin, a regular, heavier oil or a more emollient moisturiser may be more effective in providing deep hydration and moisture,” explains Sharad. “You can also consider layering a dry oil with a heavier moisturiser or using a heavier oil as a targeted treatment for drier areas of the skin. Additionally, adjusting the frequency of application or incorporating other hydrating products into your skincare routine can help meet your skin’s moisture needs effectively,” concludes the dermatologist.

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