How to not fuck up your face

Ten simple steps to making every day a good skin day

‘Exciting,’ ‘lucrative’ and ‘inexhaustible’ are some of the words that describe the current status quo of the beauty industry across the globe. From an array of products and treatments to trends that surface on social media every other week, there is so much to play around with, if you’re a beauty fanatic. However, the overload of information, accessibility and availability is like a double-edged sword—if there are pros, there are several cons too. It’s common for a skincare enthusiast to wreak havoc on their skin, out of curiosity to experiment with every new trend and product.. While you may have evolved from using a soap-based face wash and face cream to befriending potent AHAs and BHAs, the very basic chemistry of your skin remains more or less the same. And your skin loves the less-is-more approach. If your skin is bearing the brunt of your imprudent choices, or if you’re simply scouting for ways to help improve the health of your skin, these ten tips have you covered. 

1. Don’t cleanse too much … or too little

While squeaky clean skin is highly romanticised, it can be anything but good for your skin. Similarly, not cleansing your skin enough is equally menacing. You neither want your skin to be stripped of its natural oils nor do you want to make your face a breeding point for sebum, debris and build-up. “Both extremes can disrupt the skin’s natural balance,” explains Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Jaishree Sharad. “Paradoxically, over-cleansing can stimulate the skin to produce more oil to compensate for the excessive dryness, potentially exacerbating oily skin concerns,” which can cause dryness, irritation and a compromised skin barrier. On the other hand, “accumulated debris can make the skin look dull and tired, as it hinders the natural radiance of the skin. Plus, when the skin is not cleansed properly, it may not fully absorb the beneficial ingredients from serums and moisturisers,” adds Sharad. Cleansing your skin twice a day using a face wash is the ideal frequency; during the day, you can just splatter some water.

2. Stop popping those pimples already

Popping pimples is never a good idea for it is an open invitation to a slew of long-lasting skin concerns. You can make your skin susceptible to worse infection and aggravate breakouts. “When you squeeze a pimple, you can push bacteria deeper into the skin, leading to a spread of the bacteria and oil to nearby pores, causing more breakouts,” says Sharad. Besides, consciously popping a pimple, and not letting it go through its natural cycle of being active and subsiding later can lead to post-inflammatory pigmentation. “Manipulating a pimple can damage the surrounding skin tissue, causing scarring that may be permanent. This is because popping a pimple can interfere with the natural healing process, prolonging the time it takes for the pimple to disappear.”

3. (Re)Apply your sunscreen, even while indoors

If there’s one skincare lesson that everyone’s picked up in the recent past, it has to be being religious with sunscreen application. The proliferation in the sunscreen market both in India and overseas is proof enough. However, it still doesn’t come naturally to a lot of people to wear sunscreen whilst being indoors. “Some types of UV rays, particularly UVA rays, can pass through glass windows, and end up contributing to skin damage, premature ageing and put you at an increased risk of skin cancer,” says Sharad. “Applying sunscreen indoors not only ensures you maintain a consistent level of sun protection throughout the day, but also provides protection against fluorescent and LED lights. Some sunscreens could also mitigate the potential damage caused by the blue light emitted by electronic devices like smartphones, computers and TVs.”

However, sunscreen application doesn’t involve a one-and-done process—reapplication is crucial. “The efficacy of sunscreens can wear off due to sweating, friction, rubbing or prolonged sun exposure. By reapplying sunscreen every two hours, you ensure that your skin remains shielded from harmful UV rays,” explains Sharad.  

4. Double cleanse 

While cleansing your skin twice a day is paramount, by the end of the day, the dirt and sebum on the skin can mushroom, which means the cleanse in your PM/nighttime routine needs to be a little more solid. Enter: double cleansing, which refers to using an oil-based cleanser first, followed by a face wash. According to New Delhi-based dermatologist Dr Kiran Sethi, double cleansing is essential for people with oily skin, or for those who wear a lot of make-up, to thoroughly remove dirt, oil, make-up, sunscreen, and other impurities from their skin. “While an oil-based cleanser helps break down and dissolve make-up, sunscreen, and excess sebum on the skin’s surface, a water-based cleanser (foam, gel or cream) rids your skin of any remaining impurities and residue,” says the skin expert. “Wearing SPF alone doesn’t call for double cleanse, but if you have reapplied many layers and feel that your skin hasn’t been cleansed properly at the end of the day (this could also depend on environmental factors and the weight of your SPF) then double cleansing is important,” she furthers. 

5. Exfoliate, but chemically

Most of us have faced the consequences of using a gritty and abrasive face scrub in our teens, leaving our skin with microtears or enlarged pores. As a result, many have abstained from exfoliation altogether, albeit, that’s counterintuitive; you can opt for chemical exfoliants instead. “Chemical exfoliators, such as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), work by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to be easily sloughed off. This process is generally gentler on the skin as compared to physical scrubs, which can be abrasive and potentially cause microtears or irritation. Chemical exfoliators also penetrate deeper into the pores, removing debris, excess oil and dead skin cells from within. This can help prevent clogged pores and reduce the likelihood of acne,” says Sharad. Using chemical exfoliators can also help address other issues such as hyperpigmentation, acne and uneven skin tone.

6. But first, patch test

Have you ever ended up shopping for a skincare product raved by a friend only to realise that it does absolutely nothing (or worse, something disastrous) for your skin? Given that every skin type, its requirements and threshold can be vastly different, the concept of patch testing is important. “Dermatologists have been practising patch testing forever,” affirms Dr Madhri Agarwal, celebrity dermatologist and founder of Yavana Aesthetics. Explaining how patch tests function on the preventative measure mechanism, she says, “A patch test area is observed for 72 hours ideally. There can be an immediate allergic reaction to the active which happens within hours of applying the active or there can be a delayed reaction which can occur between 24-72 hours. In case you don’t do a patch test, there is a chance of developing a reaction (‘allergic’ or ‘irritant contact dermatitis’ in medical terms) or redness, swelling, rashes, irritation and itchy skin.” By following the patch-test policy you can not only save your money and your skin’s well-being but also understand which ingredients actually work for your skin.

7. Don’t jump on the bandwagon

With a myriad of skincare trends like slugging, skin fasting, skin cycling, skin flooding and moisture sandwiching promising Instagram-perfect skin, it’s decipherable why everyone wants to try their hands at everything. However, not every skincare practice/trend suits every skin type. “Often, what’s trending may not have been well-studied or have a scientific basis; it is based on the practical experience of an individual,” begins Agarwal. “It is important to understand that each skin is unique and has its own comfort levels and reactions. What can be trending and may have worked for one individual may not necessarily work for your skin and could do more harm than good.” She recommends approaching trends with caution, understanding the logic behind them, and seeing if your skin really needs it or if your skin is happy with your existing routine.

8. One active at a time

Don’t be surprised if a petrifying mess transpires on your skin upon including too many harsh chemical active ingredients in your routine suddenly and all at once. Firstly, your skin doesn’t need that much, and even if it does, you ought to give it time to adapt to the effects of every ingredient that you’re exposing it to. When multiple actives are used together, it can be challenging to determine which product is responsible for a particular reaction or result, opines Sethi. This can make it difficult to further assess the effectiveness of individual products. “Certain active ingredients like retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) and vitamin C can cause skin irritation and sensitivity, especially when used in high concentrations or combined with other potent actives,” informs Sethi. “Similarly, using too many exfoliating agents can compromise the skin’s protective barrier, causing redness, dryness, and increase the risk of sun sensitivity.” To avoid these consequences, it’s essential to introduce chemical actives gradually into your skincare routine and use them as directed, or after consulting a dermatologist, believes the skin expert.

9. Check your labels

You can never predict how your skin will react to a certain chemical active ingredient or a product. However, you can minimise the possibility of potential side effects by looking for products that are ‘non-comedogenic’ and ‘hypoallergenic’. “Non-comedogenic products are formulated to not clog pores. Using such products is essential, especially for individuals with acne-prone or oily skin, as they help keep the pores clear and prevent the formation of comedones (blackheads and whiteheads),” says Sethi. Hypoallergenic products are designed to have lower allergenic potential, which means they are less likely to cause allergic reactions in individuals with sensitive skin. They are formulated to be gentle on the skin and typically avoid common irritants and allergens, explains Sethi. “Using hypoallergenic products can be beneficial for sensitive skin, as they reduce the risk of triggering skin reactions like redness, itching or rashes.” Picking safer formulations can work as an added layer of precaution to make sure you’re not making your skin vulnerable to damage-causing blends or ingredients.

10. See a dermatologist

Nothing can quite save you from episodes of bad skin days like visiting a dermatologist and getting your skin assessed. “While Google and social media platforms do offer a plethora of information related to the skin, it may not always be accurate and suitable for your skin,” shares Agarwal. “Dermatologists have spent years studying skin intensively; a consultation is a good idea as a skincare professional can understand your concern, look into the medical history and examine to arrive at an accurate cause for your skin issue and help you resolve it faster and safely.” Today, you can also pay your dermatologist’s office a visit for skin-enriching medi-facials or other treatments to supplement your daily skincare efforts.

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