How do you spot the acne-causing culprit on your skincare shelf?

If you’re clueless about the skincare product that’s playing the bad cop, this guide will streamline the hunt

Skin purging, acne, breakouts, zits, pimples, boils, bumps—there’s an endless list of terminologies exemplifying skin that has been sullied due to a reaction from topical products containing harsh chemicals or potent active ingredients. While a new retinol serum or the salicylic acid solution you’ve been using could be common suspects as soon as you notice a series of breakouts, there could be other covert assassins that go unnoticed, courtesy of the multi-step—which means multi-product—skincare regimen. 

Describing how product-related breakouts can manifest on the skin, New Delhi-based dermatologist Dr Kiran Sethi says, “They will start in areas where the product is applied, like the face and neck. There can be comedones, bumps and pus-filled boils. These are usually small in size and at times feel like bumps on the skin. The skin feels rough and congested—it is often difficult to differentiate from regular acne.” However, going off your entire skincare routine may not be feasible for everyone; moreover, doing so in the long run to alleviate zits may not be in the best interest of your skin’s overall health. To help you identify just one culprit that could be wreaking havoc on your skin, we ask two skincare professionals to share tips to help you navigate the problem. They also tell us how to tackle breakouts that are particularly spawned by a product’s reaction.

Are there universal triggers? 

Skincare causes acne breakouts when the wrong formulation or ingredient is used on acne-prone skin. “This is known as acne cosmetica. Such products (often labelled as comedogenic) clog the pores and hair follicles on the skin and scalp, which causes more oil collection in the pores leading to  breakouts,” shares Sethi. Similarly, skincare products can also cause breakouts or acne when you use products that aren’t suited for your particular skin type, adds Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Jaishree Sharad.

While different skin types react differently to different products, some ingredients are considered to be problematic across the board—including oleaginous natural oils, thick creams, and potent active ingredients. To make the identification process failproof, Sethi enumerates the ingredients that could induce reactions on the skin. “Ingredients such as lanolin, mineral oil, wax, isopropyl myristate, squalene, coconut oil, and vitamin E serums (a fat-soluble vitamin), when applied topically, can aggravate acne.” Certain make-up products, when balmy or made on the premise of compromised quality, could also lead to a breakout on the epidermis. According to Sharad, snail mucin, oil-based vitamin C serums, silicones, comedogenic hydrators like cocoa butter and vegetable oil, alcohol, and fragrances can also be irritants. 

Every skin is different

Keeping aside comedogenic agents and irritants, one’s skin could react negatively to a slew of other ingredients, depending on each skin’s unique chemistry. The reactiveness of the skin is highly subjective, which is why two individuals falling under the same skin type category may also respond differently to the same product. Elaborating on the same, Sethi says, “Primarily when you have oily or combination skin type that is more prone to acne, then hormonal changes and certain lifestyle habits worsen the oil production of the skin. In such cases, when you use certain products that have comedogenic tendencies, you can see a breakout. Skin types that are dry usually have fewer oil glands and lower oil production so they may react as allergic reactions rather than acne.” Changes in climate or environmental conditions can also affect the skin, apprises Sharad. “For example, using heavier moisturisers in hot and humid weather may contribute to clogged pores and breakouts.”

Ways to find your skin’s nemesis

When you’re habituated to comply with a 7- or 10-product routine, narrowing down on the troublemaker can be tough, albeit, not impossible. “When you introduce a new product and the skin starts showing acne, it is more likely to be the culprit product,” begins Sethi. “However, when you have been using products for a longer period of time, and the skin suddenly starts breaking out, then it is a challenge to identify the product.”

Before diving into the symptoms or ingredients, there are certain products that have a higher propensity to cause acne. Listing them, Sethi includes thicker, creamier bases and a serum that is left on the skin, versus a cleanser which is washed off immediately. Sharad adds to the list, sharing, “Harsh or overly drying cleansers can strip the skin of its natural oils. This leads to increased oil production as the skin tries to compensate, potentially contributing to breakouts, especially in individuals with oily or acne-prone skin. Some cleansers may leave behind residue or not effectively remove make-up and impurities—residual products can clog pores and contribute to acne. Lastly, heavy or occlusive moisturisers can sometimes trap sweat, bacteria, and other impurities against the skin, potentially causing breakouts. Lastly, both physical and chemical exfoliants, if used excessively, can lead to over-exfoliation. This can compromise the skin’s protective barrier and result in acne.”

Sharad recommends running an ingredient check of the products you’re planning to use, preferably before investing in them. This makes ruling out products with red flags easier. “Look for common acne-triggering ingredients such as comedogenic oils, fragrances, and certain preservatives. Most importantly, incorporate new skincare products one at a time into your routine. This makes it easier to identify the specific product that might be causing acne. Lastly, read reviews; if you feel like you have started breaking out after a product-heavy skincare routine, you must stop using them all at once. Thereafter, you can re-introduce the products into your regime one by one and see which product is causing breakouts.”

“A patch test on the side of the face or jawline is another method of identifying acne-causing products,” informs Sethi. “Use the product consistently for a few days and keep watch whether the skin is breaking out. Another giveaway is that the skin breaks out the moment you apply the product.” The skincare expert further highlights the difference between purging and breakouts. “Purging happens with specific ingredients that are exfoliant in nature, such as AHAs, BHAs and retinols. In case you are breaking out with other ingredients, say hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, oils, sunscreen or make-up, then it is likely to be acne/breakouts. Purging starts and gets over at a faster rate as compared to a breakout. Acne would persist for longer than six weeks. Stop the product immediately when you see breakouts after using the product.”

Be smart with your irritated skin 

Should your skin feel and look good at most times, using fewer products is indeed better. To combat breakouts, eliminate the redundant products from your routine. “The ideal essential routine should consist of a cleanser/face wash, sunscreen, and a moisturiser. According to the skin type and concern, you can add a serum in the morning or night that may help with acne control, reduce hyperpigmentation or work on ageing concerns. A basic antioxidant serum in the morning before applying sunscreen will nourish and protect the skin. At night, use a hydrating moisturiser and retinol peptide-containing cream for ageing concerns or an anti-acne product for acne-prone skin,” explains Sethi. “Formulations like essences, toners, scrubs, and sheet masks, or using multiple ingredients or trying to incorporate every ingredient you read about on social media are majorly wrong practices,” warns the medical professional.

The best way to tackle a product-induced breakout is to stop using all active serums and creams and stick to a simple routine comprising a gentle cleanser/face wash, followed by a gel-based moisturiser and sunscreen, intimates Sharad. “Do not forget to cleanse off all the make-up, dirt and grime after coming back home and apply a gentle gel- or ceramide-based moisturiser over your entire face at night. You can follow this simple regime till the skin calms down. You must also visit a board-certified dermatologist, if necessary.”

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