Do pimple patches really work?

Round stickers that claim to dismiss acne have been amongst the buzziest skincare products on the Internet. We ask the experts if pimple patches are really worth the hype

Piquing the interest of beauty aficionados and rookies in equal measure, it is quite likely that pimple patches will make an appearance on the social media feeds of anyone who is invested in skincare products. The idea of pasting a minuscule adhesive stick-on to heal and vanish a pimple overnight sounds almost illusory but that’s the very premise of a pimple patch. However, to consider pimple patches as a blanket treatment for every kind of acne wouldn’t be ideal for your skin. In fact, even in cases where pimple patches could make the cut as a solution, it is key to use them befittingly. We speak to three dermatologists who help us chalk out a primer on what pimple patches are and how they work. 

What are pimple patches?

“A pimple patch is a small, adhesive bandage-like product designed to help treat and reduce the appearance of pimples and acne lesions,” says New Delhi-based celebrity dermatologist and author of Skin Sense, Dr Kiran Sethi. They use a small piece of hydrocolloid dressing, a kind of patch that is traditionally used to cover bigger wounds with pus, adds Dr Jushya Bhatia Sarin. “These patches have become popular for their convenience and effectiveness in managing acne. You can get them clear (great for everyday use) or in fun colours and designs like stars, smiley faces and more,” says Sethi. Simply put, pimple patches are a more user-friendly, convenient, targeted and hygienic version of conventional (cream-based) spot treatment products. A myriad of homegrown and international skincare brands like Gush Beauty, The Derma Co, CosRX, Peace Out, Mario Badescu, Innisfree and Starface manufacture pimple patches.

“Pimple patches can be either simple hydrocolloid ones (non-medicated) or they can also have medicated active ingredients for acne,” says Mumbai-based dermatologist Dr Agni Kumar Bose. “The active ingredients commonly include salicylic acid, tea tree oil, benzoyl peroxide and niacinamide. Some also have very small dissolving microneedles in them to help make microscopic holes in the skin to deliver the active ingredient inside.”

If you’re wondering what hydrocolloid refers to, it functions similarly to starch—it helps absorb water and then transforms itself into a gel-like material. “Hydrocolloid [patches] simply suck out/draw out the water/pus/oil from a pimple—it doesn’t, however, have any medication in it by itself.” According to Bhatia Sarin, pimple patches were traditionally made to assist with pus-filled pimples by drying out the pus. However, of late, they have also been used to aid with red, inflamed pimples as that reduces the chances of picking them while also concealing them. 

How do they work?

“A pimple patch is meant to be placed directly over a pimple and it works by creating a barrier between the pimple and the external environment, which can help protect the blemish from further irritation and contamination. Additionally, the patch may contain active ingredients that target the pimple, reducing inflammation, absorbing excess oil, and promoting faster healing,” explains Sethi. Elaborating further, she says, “When applied to a pimple, the patch adheres to the skin, creating an occlusive environment, which helps in drawing out excess fluids, oil and impurities from the blemish while protecting it from further irritation caused by touching or exposure to dirt and bacteria. The hydrocolloid material aids in absorbing the exudate from the pimple, which may reduce its size and redness.”

While medicated/active ingredients-dipped pimple patches undoubtedly have an upper hand over basic hydrocolloid ones, owing to the former’s double-duty action, if you’re someone who tends to pick or pop pimples and are not sure about the classification of the acne you’re facing, using hydrocolloid ones are better than using none at all, given that they form a protective barrier.

However, the one-size-fits-all approach cannot be implemented in the case of pimple patches since different types and severities of acne demand different treatment. “Hydrocolloid patches work best for pimples that have burst or are open since these patches simply draw out oil and pus. They are ineffective for comedones (whiteheads/blackheads) or pimples which have been deep inside the skin and haven’t opened up yet. The medicated pimple patches with salicylic acid/benzoyl peroxide, however, can help with closed lesions/pustules since these are active, acne-fighting ingredients,” says Kumar Bose. “Also, for severe nodulocystic acne/generalised acne, pimple patches simply won’t work—you’ll definitely need to visit a dermatologist for that,” he adds, throwing light on the importance of getting your skin assessed in the case of prolonged, stubborn or unusual acne eruptions. 

The right way of using a pimple patch

The way you use a pimple patch can make or break its efficacy. After selecting the most appropriate match for your skin (and acne type), the application of patches must also be executed cautiously. Always begin on deep-cleansed skin that is completely dried out since “pimple patches don’t stick to wet surfaces,” advises Kumar Bose. “Each brand will have its own instructions, but a simple thumb rule is to wear patches for a few hours—either during the day or at night. This is because the pimple patches have adhesive in them which can irritate the skin so it’s important to not overdo it. As long as you switch the patch out every day, non-medicated hydrocolloid ones can be used for two to three days. If you notice any skin irritation or allergies, stop using them.”

Individuals with known allergies to adhesive materials or specific ingredients in the patches should avoid using them, shares Sethi. “If you have sensitive skin, keep an eye on the area to make sure it’s not irritated further.” Along the same lines, Bhatia Sarin recommends keeping away from pimple patches containing irritation-stimulating ingredients such as mint, menthol and retinol. 

“If you have generalised acne or severe nodulocystic acne, pimple patches won’t do the job. You’ll have to consult a dermatologist. For fewer, milder lesions, even after using pimple patches, if your lesions are not improving or are, in fact, becoming worse, you know they’re not working. Give it at least 2-3 days before you know whether or not it’s working for you,” advises Kumar Bose. Sethi concludes, “In such cases, it’s essential to explore other acne treatment options or consult with a dermatologist for personalised recommendations.”

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