Sebum-reducing products always manage to secure a spot on the shelves of those struggling with oily skin, but do they really work?
Oily skin is both a boon and bane in chorus. While the film of sheen on your skin might render naturally lit and dewy skin in your selfies, the greasiness can be quite a plight to deal with. Speaking of which, the T-zone crops up as the most problematic area, no matter how little or more the sebum production on your skin is. From extremely oily to combination skin, the T-zone area secretes the maximum amount of oil (or sebum), making it more prone to blackheads, whiteheads and congestion, which, in turn, causes even more oil secretion. It indeed is a vicious circle, making people reach out to an ‘oil-controlling’ toner, serum or mask in the hope of bridled oil. We ask two dermatologists to weigh in their opinions on such ‘oil-controlling’ skincare products—whether they really work and if they should even be used in the first place.
Why is the T-zone prone to oiliness?
From climatic conditions and hormones to your skin’s topography and your dietary practices, a lot of your day-to-day life influences the way your skin behaves, including the sebum it produces. A National Library of Medicine report reveals that “the amount of sebum a person produces varies throughout the course of his or her life. Sebaceous glands are present at birth and display a relatively high production of sebum at this time. Shortly after birth, sebum production decreases until puberty, at which time it dramatically increases. Sebum production does not decline again until after menopause for women and around the sixth to seventh decade for men.”
As far as the T-zone is concerned in particular, it’s an area that is most highly susceptible to a surfeit of sebum. “That is because the T-zone is the area where the maximum number of oil glands are concentrated, especially among people with oily skin,” says Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Madhuri Agarwal. In concurrence with Agarwal, New Delhi-based Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta, founder of ISAAC Luxe, shares, “This makes your skin appear greasy and may also contribute to related concerns such as clogged pores, congestion and acne breakouts.”
![“This [excess oil] makes your skin appear greasy and may also contribute to related concerns such as clogged pores, congestion and acne breakouts” says Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta. Image: Pexels](https://img-cdn.publive.online/filters:format(webp)/established/media/post_attachments/theestablished/2023-04/6bb10549-9461-4bea-82c1-68eb96f728cd/pexels_angela_roma_7479955_copy.jpg)
“This [excess oil] makes your skin appear greasy and may also contribute to related concerns such as clogged pores, congestion and acne breakouts” says Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta. Image: Pexels
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Dry skin, too, can have oil glands in areas like the T-zone and chin that can lead to excess oil production, especially while exercising and/or in case of stress or hormonal imbalances, says Dr Madhuri Agarwal. Image: Pexels
If you think that an oily T-zone is a predicament for oily skin alone, think again, for dry skin could also experience atypical stickiness in just the said area of the face. “Yes, dry skin, too, can have oil glands (though not many as compared to oily skin) in areas like the T-zone and chin that can lead to excess oil production, especially while exercising and/or in case of stress or hormonal imbalances,” explains Agarwal. Mittal Gupta advises to be wary of confusing dehydrated skin with oily skin. “You can have an excess of sebum, but you will still lack the right and necessary amount of hydration for your skin if you have dehydrated skin,” she mentions.
Are oil-controlling products the solution?
Be it sporadically or regularly, the occurrence of tiny blobs of oil can be irksome, especially when you’re spending the day at work or the outdoors in scorching weather. Habitually, people struggling with excessive oiliness and turn to products that claim to suppress or ‘control’ oil production in the form of astringent toners, clay-based cleansers and masks and BHA-infused serums. “Products claiming to stop/control oil production attract oil from the surface of your skin or just beneath it in your pores. Through their porous nature, such products absorb the oil and hold onto it so it doesn’t cause that classic oily shine on your skin,” says Mittal Gupta.
“PRODUCTS CAN CONTROL AND REDUCE EXCESS OIL FOR A SHORT PERIOD OF TIME, NOT INDEFINITELY. WITH TIME AND AGE, OIL PRODUCTION ALSO REDUCES. I DO NOT TRUST THE CLAIMS OF PRODUCTS OF STOPPING OIL PRODUCTION”
Dr Madhuri Agarwal
However, we wonder if a topical skincare product can actually annihilate the production of sebum—a naturally-occurring phenomenon in the skin. “No product can completely stop oil production,” clarifies Agarwal. “Products can control and reduce excess oil for a short period of time, not indefinitely. With time and age, oil production also reduces. I do not trust the claims of products of stopping oil production,” adds the dermatologist.
Upon being asked if such products are benign for the skin, Mittal Agarwal says, “It is okay to use skincare products that claim to stop/control oil production if you’re relying on customised products prescribed by healthcare professionals.” She also wants you to be sure of your skin type and condition before subscribing to such products. “If these products are used by dry skin types, it can cause loss of essential oil as well, which will ultimately lead to dry and irritated skin, with inflammation and cracks,” warns Mittal Gupta. Agarwal believes that an unrestricted use of oil-controlling products can actually lead to more production of oil since the skin will compensate for the oil lost. “It can strip the skin of oil and lead to a barrier breakdown with irritation and reactions. It can worsen skin dryness and cause allergies and flare-ups at times,” says Agarwal.
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Innisfree's bestselling Green Tea Seed Serum combines the soothing properties of antioxidant-rich green tea and barrier-repairing tri-biotics, leaving the skin supple, hydrated and balanced. Image: Instagram.com/innsifreeindia
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1.5 per cent salicylic acid is the hero ingredient of this dry oil which claims to regulate oil production and clear up acne on the skin. Ingredients like tea tree, black cumin seed oil, liquorice and hexylresorcinol support the function. Image: Instagram.com/sundayriley
What’s the best way to tackle excess sebum?
While there’s no right or wrong way when it comes to using oil-controlling skincare products, one needs to be mindful of a bunch of factors before including them in their skincare routine. However, if excess sebum is a pain point that you wish to address, there are a few ways to do so. “It is possible to control oil production with oral retinoids prescribed by dermatologists (do not self-medicate) for a longer period of time,” shares Agarwal. “Lifestyle changes to balance hormones and reduce stress can also help to control the excess oil.”
Enumerating the at-home skincare tips to manage oil imbalances, Mittal Gupta mentions cleansing and moisturising the skin regularly, using products containing salicylic acid, including a green tea-infused product in your skincare regimen and whipping up clay-based face masks from time to time. “Blotting papers and medicated pads can usually help absorb excess oil from the skin’s surface. People can gently press blotting papers or pads against the skin for a few seconds,” adds the expert. She also recommends making dietary tweaks such as cutting out foods with a high glycemic index since “the American Academy of Dermatology suggests that high glycemic foods and beverages may stimulate inflammation and sebum production as they raise blood sugars quickly.” Lastly, she also encourages visiting a dermatologist’s office should you wish to opt for treatments like Ice Facial and Carbon Laser Peel that tackle open, large pores and, subsequently, oiliness and all types of acne.
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