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Why it is necessary to exercise caution in the quest for fluttery eyelashes

Can lash growth serums do your eyes more harm than good?

Why it’s necessary to exercise caution in the quest for fluttery eyelashes

The idea of fanning out your eyelashes using your favourite mascara can easily pass as one of the most non-negotiable steps of your make-up routine, should you identify as someone who swears by lashes on fleek. However, waking up with naturally fluttery, thick and long lashes undoubtedly sounds like a better idea. To achieve the latter, there’s a product that’s been making all the noise in the beauty industry—lash serums. From newer offerings via globally-loved beauty labels such as The Ordinary and Olaplex to the classic Revitalash, there is a plethora of options to choose from. A few other lesser-known brands applying all their focus on lashes (and lash growth) for over a decade are LASHFOOD, GrandeLASH-MD and RapidLash. 

The market for lash serum has proliferated and become more mainstream in the recent past (the global lash serum market, valued at US$752.1 million in 2020 is poised to expand to US$1.3 billion by 2031, growing at a compound annual growth rate of 5.7 per cent, reveals a report) as it is with in-office treatments to transform the look and appeal of your lashes amongst many other permanent and semi-permanent make-up services that we wrote about recently. With over 108 million views on TikTok, lash serums have managed to pique the interest of beauty enthusiasts across the globe. However, applying a lash serum—which is directly exposed to (the skin around) your eyes—for fuller lashes is very different from massaging oil into your scalp for healthier locks. We ask two dermatologists to weigh in their opinions on the efficacy of these serums and whether they are safe to use in the first place.

Lash serums 101

“Lash growth serums are topical products designed to enhance the growth, length, and thickness of eyelashes,” says Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Jaishree Sharad. “While different serums may have varying formulations, the majority contain active ingredients that promote lash growth and improve their overall appearance.” There are lash conditioning serums and then there are lash growth serums; while the latter can also double as the former due to the infusion of nourishing ingredients, the other way around is improbable due to a lack of the required hair-stimulating agents in the former.

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"Lash growth serums that are usually found OTC work like conditioners works for hair ends," says Dr Madhuri Agarwal. Image: www.theordinary.com 

Dr Madhuri Agarwal, celebrity dermatologist and founder, Yavana Aesthetics, is of the opinion that most lash growth serums available over-the-counter (OTC) work to improve and strengthen the lashes’ existing growth, but do not actually augment new hair follicle growth. “Lash growth serums that are usually found OTC work like conditioners works for hair ends; the actual growth requires a hormonal stimulus like prostaglandins,” informs Agarwal. Listing the common ingredients in OTC lash serums, the skin expert mentions ceramides for moisturising, amino acids and peptides to strengthen the hair follicle and panthenol for hydration. “Prostaglandins-infused lash serums should only be used upon a doctor’s prescription,” she clarifies.

Sharad lets us in on how such lash serums actually work. “When applied to the base of the eyelashes, the serum penetrates the hair follicles and interacts with the hair growth cycle. The active ingredients in the serum extend the growth phase (anagen phase) of the eyelashes, making them grow for a longer duration before entering the resting phase (telogen phase) and eventually falling out,” explains the dermatologist. “Additionally, these ingredients can enhance blood circulation around the hair follicles, which may help deliver more nutrients to the lashes, promoting their overall health and appearance.”

What makes lash serums potentially perilous?

So far, nothing about lash serums poses red flags. However, certain ingredients that go into the making of some lash serums are cynical—prostaglandins, for instance. Drawing a parallel to what Agarwal said, Sharad mentions that the most common active ingredient found in such serums is a compound called bimatoprost. “Bimatoprost is a prostaglandin analogue that was originally developed to treat glaucoma. However, during its use, it was discovered to have the side-effect of stimulating eyelash growth.”

“WHEN I STARTED USING THE PRODUCT, THE FIRST THREE TIMES IT WAS GREAT BUT ON THE FOURTH TRY, I WOKE UP WITH REALLY SWOLLEN EYELIDS AND THAT DIDN’T SEEM TO SUBSIDE FOR 2-3 DAYS”

Shalini Kutti

“It is a medication for eye concerns namely glaucoma and one of its benefits is lash growth. But it can have adverse effects like dryness of the eyes, redness and blurring of vision. It can increase melanin production (in the area) and thereby lead to darkening of the eyelid skin and permanent darkening of the iris,” affirms Agarwal. Even though prostaglandins are used in a much smaller ratio in lash serum when compared to glaucoma eye drops, they do carry the risk of playing havoc with your eyes and the area around the eyes. 

Optometrist Inna Lazar, founder of Greenwich Eye Care and Dry Eye Spa in Connecticut, in a chat with Refinery29, shared her experience with Latisse—the world’s only FDA-approved lash growth medication with bimatoprost—which, by the way, is only obtainable when prescribed. “My lashes were long, but they were very bushy and all over the place. Plus I got hyperpigmentation on my lash line. With those side-effects, I stopped using it.” In an in-depth feature about Latisse, Dr. Ashley Brissette, assistant professor of Ophthalmology at Weill Cornell Medicine told Byrdie, “I don’t recommend it to people with sensitive skin or eyes as it can lead to redness, dryness of the eyes and even formation of styes in some people. It is also not recommended for use if pregnant or breastfeeding.”600

When applied to the base of the eyelashes, the serum penetrates the hair follicles and interacts with the hair growth cycle, says Dr Jaishree Sharad. Image: Instagram.com/lashfood

When applied to the base of the eyelashes, the serum penetrates the hair follicles and interacts with the hair growth cycle, says Dr Jaishree Sharad. Image: Instagram.com/lashfood

The all-new Lashbond from Olaplex contains a patented Peptide Complex and Bond Building technologies with hyaluronic acid and biotin to boost eyelash growth and volume over time. Image: Instagram.com/olaplex

The all-new Lashbond from Olaplex contains a patented Peptide Complex and Bond Building technologies with hyaluronic acid and biotin to boost eyelash growth and volume over time. Image: Instagram.com/olaplex

Beauty and lifestyle content creator Shalini Kutti tried out a lash and brow growth serum, and her experience was underwhelming. “From what I’ve read, lash serums seem to be a hit-and-miss. When I started using the product, the first three times it was great but on the fourth try, I woke up with really swollen eyelids and that didn’t seem to subside for 2-3 days. I’ve read that a bunch of people had similar issues. It’s unfortunate because it was so hyped.” Similarly, model and content creator Sophia Becker took to TikTok to share her experience with GrandeLash. “I was thinking, What did I change in my skin-care routine that’s making my eyes so red and so hyperpigmented?It’s this,” she exclaimed in the video.

Sharad goes into the details of why prostaglandins are possibly irritating. “It works by increasing blood flow to the hair follicles, including those of the eyelashes. While this can promote lash growth, it may also lead to increased blood flow around the eyes, which can cause redness, itching, or irritation. Some allergic reactions can manifest as redness, itching, swelling, or other forms of eye irritation. It can also potentially interact with contact lenses, leading to discomfort or blurred vision (it's generally recommended to remove contact lenses before applying lash growth serums and wait for at least 15-20 minutes before reinserting them).”

To ditch or to cop?

From irritation to hypersensitivity and pigmentation to unruly growth and tired-looking eyes, the potential complexities associated with a lash growth serum are not ineffaceable. However, “it’s important to note that individual results may vary when using them,” says Sharad, which applies to both its efficacy and the risk of blow-ups. “While many people report noticeable improvements in lash length and thickness after regular use, others may experience more modest results or no significant change at all. Additionally, it’s worth noting that not everyone will experience these reactions. If you have a history of eye sensitivity, allergies, or any other pre-existing eye conditions, it’s essential to exercise caution when using lash growth serums and consult with a dermatologist or an ophthalmologist before trying any new product.” She also suggests following the instructions provided by the specific product and preventing the serum from trickling into the eyes.

Look for lash growth serums that contain good-for-you and safe-for-the-eyes ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, peptides, castor oil and redensyl. Image: Instagram.com/lashfood

Look for lash growth serums that contain good-for-you and safe-for-the-eyes ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, peptides, castor oil and redensyl. Image: Instagram.com/lashfood

Look for lash growth serums that contain good-for-you and safe-for-the-eyes ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, peptides, castor oil and redensyl, and in any case of ambivalence pertaining to the ingredients, turn to a dermatologist or ophthalmologist. “As long as you take care of lashes and don’t put it through multiple treatments like lash extensions, the lash naturally stays healthy. Choose the right kind of serum which is FDA-approved and abides by all safety norms followed by the product,” suggests Agarwal. “You can add lash serums to your routine provided you will do it regularly,” she concludes.

Also Read: 8 lash primers for big, bold eyes

Also Read: Is the need to use mascara basically just built around marketing?

Also Read: How effective are post-wash scalp serums?


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