Is permanent make-up a trend worth the risk?

Sculpted brows, fluttery lashes, flushed lips and cheeks and a near-perfect complexion–is it passable to let your face don such looks permanently?

From JLo to Megan Fox, and Deepika Padukone to Shraddha Kapoor, celebrities across the globe have been championing picture-perfect brows, lashes and lips  even in their no-makeup selfies. Much to your surprise, they do wake up like this—with brows and lashes on fleek—courtesy of the permanent (or semi-permanent) make-up services that they undergo. From microblading to lip blushing and permanent eyeliner to lash extensions, there is a barrage of options to pick and choose from. In addition to easy access, social media has set up permanent make-up for all the virality possible—the hashtag #permanentmakeup has over 1.6 billion views on TikTok and over a million posts on Instagram. However, it isn’t without its risks, as permanent make-up involves invasive treatments. We speak to dermatologists and technical specialists to understand more about this trend. 

What is permanent make-up?

According to Arti Bagga, celebrity brow expert and house of talent at The White Door Salons, permanent make-up is essentially cosmetic tattooing. “When it comes to tattoos, pigments contain metal oxides which the body cannot reject, and hence the results are permanent. Secondly, the pigments are placed below the upper layers of the skin, and so the pigment is not being washed away or removed, since it goes in much deeper than any form of semi-permanent make-up,” explains Bagga. “On the contrary, semi-permanent make-up, in most cases, uses metal oxide-free pigment and is only performed on the upper layer of the skin and can hence last for one to three years,” she furthers.

For Sapna Vaid, a permanent make-up specialist whose services can also be availed at The White Door, permanent and semi-permanent make-up are pretty much the same; the key difference is perhaps how deep the pigment is deposited. Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Madhuri Agarwal shares a similar opinion, revealing that permanent make-up involves depositing pigment (in deeper layers of the skin) with a digital machine with needles, while semi-permanent make-up is where the pigment is deposited in the superficial layers of the skin manually through hands. “The varying depth and technique influence the longevity [of the make-up]”, says the dermatologist. We use a specialised tattooing technique to deposit pigment into the skin via a fine needle.

“The technician or artist will first have a detailed consultation session with the client to understand their needs, select colours, and study the skin texture and health. Topical anaesthesia is used during the procedure so there is minimal discomfort. You might need several sessions to achieve the desired results,” says New Delhi-based dermatologist and founder of Isya Aesthetics, Dr Kiran Sethi. 

An ever-expanding scope

The torrent of permanent make-up began with all things eyebrows–from microblading to nano-blading, endless options to enhance, or perhaps transform, the look of your brows have emerged. However, today there is a permanent make-up solution for every inch of your face, “to give the appearance of traditional make-up–think blush, eyeliner, eyebrows and even freckles,” shares Sethi. 

“It all started with brows initially, especially in Asian countries where clients struggled with sparse brows and were looking for some facial definition,” recalls Vaid. “Due to their facial composition, they also struggle with scanty lashes and thus semi-permanent make-up became popular. The trend made its way to Western countries and this phenomenon grew into what it is today. It has expanded to blush tinting, lip tinting, brow lamination, lash tinting and lifting amongst others,” she adds. The current roster of permanent make-up includes lip blushing, complexion correction, permanent eyeliner, hair and brow strokes, freckle tattoos, scar camouflage and lash extensions. The space is only proliferating by the day, thanks to technological advancements as well as the quest for flawless skin sans any imperfection.

Is it a risky affair?

“It is considered safe, provided it’s done with a certified artist, preferably in a dermatologist’s clinic, to take care of any adverse event,” believes Agarwal. In concurrence, Sethi says, “When performed by a qualified and experienced professional, in a clean and sterile environment, permanent make-up and semi-permanent make-up procedures can generally be considered safe. However, it’s essential to note that there are risks involved, as with any cosmetic procedure.”

For those who aren’t fully persuaded to commit to permanent make-up, semi-permanent make-up services pass as a better option, believes Bagga. “Semi-permanent make-up eliminates the need to put much effort into getting dressed every morning, without making you feel stuck in the same look for the years to come. Since the colour is semi-permanent, it does not turn into any green or red undertones, and instead fades off gradually.” Having said that, permanent make-up services pertaining to the eyebrows still prevail as the most-commonly opted for treatment. “This is because the risks associated with eyebrows are fewer, which is why the repeat clients for this particular procedure are higher,” says Agarwal.

It’s important to note that downtime is a significant factor that comes as a tag-along with every semi-permanent/permanent make-up service. For instance, in the case of lip blushing, “The healing process post the service is approximately 3-4 days, varying from person to person. During the course of that period, you may experience some dryness and change in texture that is up until the lips naturally exfoliate themselves and you are left with tinted, even-toned, blush lips,” says London-based celebrity aesthetician Ash Kaur, who attends her Indian clients at The White Door. According to Bagga, you may have a slight redness around the area (based on the permanent make-up treatment that you came in for) which subsides after a couple of hours. “The immediate results of all the treatments are very pigmented at the beginning till they go through the healing and scabbing process.”

Is it worth the investment?

Risk factors aside, permanent and semi-permanent make-up services are extremely expensive affairs. The starting price of such services at The White Door, for instance, is ₹ 30,000, which keeps increasing based on the nature of the service and experience of the technician/aesthetician. Suman Jalaf, a celebrity brow expert who has worked on brows of the likes of Deepika Padukone and Kate Moss, reportedly charges about £60 for a 45-minute shaping session, while a bespoke microblading session (plus retouching) can cost £700 in the UK. The longevity of this investment, however, can be underwhelming for some. “Lip blushing lasts for anywhere between 6-8 months while microblading and semi-permanent eyeliner can last up to a year or more, depending on the type of skin and pigments used,” says Agarwal. “It’s a worthy investment for someone who has eyebrow alopecia, scars, or an issue that they want to conceal; it enhances the features and takes away attention from the issue. It’s like any other aesthetic treatment done for enhancement. However, it can look unrealistic if you go overboard.”

The do’s and don’ts

While permanent make-up has the stamp of approval from dermatologists and aestheticians alike, it’s paramount that you analyse its positives and negatives. “It is inadvisable for people with keloids (a tendency to develop scars frequently) or excessive sun exposure due to their work or lifestyle. People with poor immunity or on blood thinners should do it with care,” suggests Agarwal. Bagga says it is imperative that you ensure you don’t have any medical conditions that can be potentially affected by any treatment. “Individuals with diabetes type 1, pregnancy, skin cancer or any allergy to cosmetics should inform the technician ahead of the service; we recommend doing a patch test to make sure you are okay to go ahead with the treatment.”

According to Vaid, studies have suggested that you avoid caffeine and abstain from alcohol prior to the service and get a good night’s sleep. “Ensure that you are keeping yourself hydrated. Avoid the procedure just before your period is due, because our bodies are sensitive during that time and what would usually not be so uncomfortable to bear, might hurt a little more,” she adds. “Anyone with a skin condition such as eczema, psoriasis, rosacea, allergy or sensitivity should keep away from permanent make-up services. On the other hand, a cancer patient would make for an ideal candidate as they struggle with hair fall.”

Sethi advises one and all to make sure that the technician or artist uses disposable needles and sterilised equipment and follows proper hygiene protocols to minimise the risk of infection. “Avoid direct sun exposure for four weeks and hot showers, swimming and strenuous exercise for ten days,” recommends Agarwal. “We would recommend taking special care of the area for the following day or two after the service,” concludes Bagga.

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