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Are the new-age renditions of Ayurvedic beauty really worth ditching science-backed solutions? Read more on The Established

Can Ayurvedic beauty really replace everything else in your vanity?

Are the new-age renditions of Ayurveda really worth ditching science-backed solutions? We attempt to find out

Should you resort to hyaluronic acid or ashwagandha for plumper skin? Vitamin C or licorice to achieve a brighter complexion? Salicylic acid or neem to heal acne breakouts? Panthenol or aloe vera to soothe and repair the skin? If a tug of war between the two philosophies of beauty—Ayurveda and modern science—periodically sway past your mind, you’re not alone. From the 1990s to the present day, the Indian beauty landscape has come a long way. For instance, ‘barrier-repairing’ creams have taken over old-school Lacto Calamine and cold cream. Serums— alien about a decade ago—have secured a permanent spot on most of our beauty shelves. Traditional Ayurvedic beauty, though native to India, lost its significance in the bargain, barring a few beauty brands that championed a luxurious yet authentic approach to Ayurveda to be relevant to the modern consumer, who deeply cares about what they’re putting on their faces. 

‘Barrier-repairing’ creams have taken over old-school Lacto Calamine and cold cream. Serums— alien about a decade ago—have secured a permanent spot on most of our beauty shelves. Image: Instagram.com/isclinical

‘Barrier-repairing’ creams have taken over old-school Lacto Calamine and cold cream. Serums— alien about a decade ago—have secured a permanent spot on most of our beauty shelves. Image: Instagram.com/isclinical

Saffron, for example, is a powerhouse of vitamin C, enabling it to tackle pigmentation and dark spots and also offer sun protection. Image: Instagram.com/ranavat

Saffron, for example, is a powerhouse of vitamin C, enabling it to tackle pigmentation and dark spots and also offer sun protection. Image: Instagram.com/ranavat

However, in the last few years, going back to Ayurveda has seemingly become the new cool. From consuming amla-turmeric immunity shots to turning to brands that draw inspiration from traditional Ayurvedic recipes, the modern beauty and wellness enthusiast’s consumption patterns are changing. According to Bloomberg, within the next five years, the market for Indian Ayurvedic products is projected to top US$20 billion, tripling its market size from 2022. Parallelly, a sizeable share of beauty consumers have also acclimatised themselves to the world of chemical active ingredients, as their potency promises high efficacy and swift results. 

It’s 2024, and both schools of thought co-exist and flourish. This is both a good and a bad thing for the consumer. Are the new-age renditions of Ayurveda really worth ditching science-backed solutions? We speak to experts from both fields to attempt to find a reasonable answer. 

Ayurveda versus Chemical Actives 

Ingredients that are ‘natural’ also comprise chemicals in some form or the other. Saffron, for example, is a powerhouse of vitamin C, enabling it to tackle pigmentation and dark spots and also offer sun protection. Aloe vera, an ingredient that has been extensively commoditised, is packed with hyaluronic acid; and lactic acid (an alpha hydroxy acid or AHA) occurs naturally in milk and yoghurt. So, what really distinguishes natural Ayurvedic ingredients from chemical actives? “Chemical active ingredients-led products have the benefit of consistency and are evidence-backed. They have a more specific, defined mode of action, which makes them faster-acting. There are also stringent regulations around them which provide them with good safety and efficacy,” explains Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Jaishree Sharad. “Ayurvedic products, on the other hand, have natural ingredients that focus more on holistic improvement. Although there may not be much concrete evidence, they are more experience-based and time-tested. There is also some amount of cultural significance attached to them,” she furthers. 

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"Chemical active ingredients-led products have the benefit of consistency and are evidence-backed. They have a more specific, defined mode of action, which makes them faster-acting," says Dr Jaishree Sharad. Image: Instagram.com/biologiquerecherche

While Michelle Ranavat, founder of skin and haircare brand RANAVAT, defines Ayurvedic beauty as a holistic science that takes lifestyle, diet and mental health into account as the inside-out connection is at the core of Ayurveda, Dr Taruna Yadav, senior Ayurveda doctor at Forest Essentials applauds Ayurveda’s emphasis on balancing the three doshas (Vata, Pitta, and Kapha) to achieve radiant and healthy skin, which leads to long-lasting results and a more sustainable skincare routine. “One of the primary advantages of Ayurvedic beauty lies in its use of natural ingredients sourced from herbs, flowers, fruits, and essential oils that are minimally processed, ensuring that their therapeutic properties remain intact while delivering results,” says Yadav. While Dr Kiran Sethi, a New Delhi-based celebrity dermatologist concurs that Ayurvedic products are often gentler on the skin, their efficacy often lacks robust scientific validation. “Many people who prefer Ayurvedic beauty do so for its natural origin and cultural significance, but this does not necessarily equate to better skin outcomes.” According to her, scientific proofs pertaining to chemical actives, and the rigorous testing they’re put through to ace efficacy, consistency, and stability are noteworthy.  

Half-baked knowhow = more dubiety?

“When you get down to the real chemistry, every ingredient is just a molecule. The importance, however, lies in the quality of the ingredients (molecules) used,” explains Dr Charlene DeHaven, from iS Clinical. “Chemical actives like AHAs and enzymes are a great way to promote skin health–but what people don’t realise is that many of them are native to Ayurveda (enzymes from fruits like papaya),” says Ranavat, “I believe the definition of chemical active should evolve and change. For example, our Saffron Serum contains crocin, a naturally occurring chemical in saffron and turmeric, that provides anti-inflammatory and brightening benefits. Ayurveda uses plant medicines and ingredients but there are still chemical actives in these formulas that provide the benefits our skin needs.”

“When you get down to the real chemistry, every ingredient is just a molecule. The importance, however, lies in the quality of the ingredients (molecules) used,” explains Dr Charlene DeHaven. Image: Instagram.com/isclinical

“When you get down to the real chemistry, every ingredient is just a molecule. The importance, however, lies in the quality of the ingredients (molecules) used,” explains Dr Charlene DeHaven. Image: Instagram.com/isclinical

Dr Taruna Yadav applauds Ayurveda’s emphasis on balancing the three doshas (Vata, Pitta, and Kapha) to achieve radiant and healthy skin, which leads to long-lasting results and a more sustainable skincare routine. Image: Instagram.com/forestessentials

Dr Taruna Yadav applauds Ayurveda’s emphasis on balancing the three doshas (Vata, Pitta, and Kapha) to achieve radiant and healthy skin, which leads to long-lasting results and a more sustainable skincare routine. Image: Instagram.com/forestessentials

“The lack of awareness of the scientific basis of Ayurveda and its efficacy means that people might not realise that long-term use will give better results. On the other hand, chemically-driven products are heavily promoted on social media,” says Vivek Sahni, founder and chairman of Kama Ayurveda. “Ayurvedic formulations are time-tested, having been used for centuries. While beauty routines need to evolve with new lifestyles and trends, some time-honoured, traditional ingredients like aloe vera and costus still enhance natural beauty. According to Ayurveda, many skin issues can be addressed using ingredients and herbs found in our natural ecosystem. Most people in India are attracted to the immediate and visible results that chemical actives can provide for specific skin issues like acne and pigmentation.”

“INCREASED LEVELS OF REACTIVE OXYGEN SPECIES (ROS) IN URBAN ENVIRONMENTS ARE A RECENT DEVELOPMENT THAT ANCIENT TEXTS DIDN'T ACCOUNT FOR, NECESSITATING CONTEMPORARY SOLUTIONS”

Prachi Bhandari

In concurrence with Sahni, Sethi affirms, “The increase in awareness of skin concerns and ingredients has led people to increasingly embrace chemical actives. This shift is primarily driven by the fact that these ingredients actually work. People are drawn to the quick and visible results that chemical actives can provide, especially for common issues like acne and hyperpigmentation.” However, Sahni also argues, “Modern science often uses products that are naturally found in nature and then creates them with a chemical base. What Ayurveda does is that it uses nature-derived ingredients and not chemical ones. Ayurveda is experiencing a notable evolution, particularly within the beauty industry, with a growing emphasis on ingredient-led product positioning.”

Can Ayurveda substitute everything else on your shelf?

“The short answer is no,” says Sethi. “While Ayurvedic beauty has its advantages, it certainly cannot compare to chemical actives and modern beauty products as chemical actives are necessary for targeted treatments like acne, severe hyperpigmentation and advanced anti-ageing, where Ayurvedic ingredients may fall short.” Along the same lines, Sharad explains, “Actives are precisely formulated to deliver a stable product that is both safe and effective, with a lot of research backing them. They also align with the pH of the skin. Moreover, certain skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis, and acne require actives of the correct strength to be brought under control. While Ayurvedic products may be sufficient for some individuals with mild conditions, they cannot replace actives altogether.”

“Ayurveda and chemical actives make a great mix because they balance each other’s strengths,” shares the influencer-turned-entrepreneur Diipa Khosla. Image: Pexels

“Ayurveda and chemical actives make a great mix because they balance each other’s strengths,” shares the influencer-turned-entrepreneur Diipa Khosla. Image: Pexels

“I think there is a place for both chemical actives and Ayurvedic agents, as long as ingredient quality is very high and correct formulating techniques are used,” expresses DeHaven. Diipa Khosla, who bottles a fusion of both philosophies in the products of her beauty line, indē Wild, opines that it isn’t an either-or situation. “Ayurveda and chemical actives make a great mix because they balance each other’s strengths,” shares the influencer-turned-entrepreneur. “Ayurveda offers natural, holistic benefits that nurture and heal the skin gently, while chemical actives provide powerful, targeted solutions for specific skin issues. Together, they deliver quick results without compromising on long-term skin health.” Sharad also votes in favour of the hybrid approach. “Combining actives with Ayurvedic products can increase the effectiveness of the product. For example, combining kojic acid with curcumin (turmeric) can be beneficial for hyperpigmentation. These combinations can also tackle multiple skin issues holistically. However, it is essential to consider the stability of the product, its potential to cause irritation, and the proper use of preservatives.” 

“Ayurvedic beauty certainly cannot compare to chemical actives  as they are necessary for targeted treatments like acne, severe hyperpigmentation and advanced anti-ageing, where Ayurvedic ingredients may fall short,” says Dr Kiran Sethi. Image: Instagram.com/aminu.life

“Ayurvedic beauty certainly cannot compare to chemical actives as they are necessary for targeted treatments like acne, severe hyperpigmentation and advanced anti-ageing, where Ayurvedic ingredients may fall short,” says Dr Kiran Sethi. Image: Instagram.com/aminu.life

Combining actives with Ayurvedic products can increase the effectiveness of the product, informs Dr Jaishree Sharad. Image: Instagram.com/indewild

Combining actives with Ayurvedic products can increase the effectiveness of the product, informs Dr Jaishree Sharad. Image: Instagram.com/indewild

Keep it simple

Explaining why it might be hard to completely ignore chemical actives, Prachi Bhandari, co-founder at Aminu, says, “While Ayurveda offers holistic benefits, it doesn’t always address specific, modern-day skin concerns. For instance, increased levels of reactive oxygen species (ROS) in urban environments are a recent development that ancient texts didn't account for, necessitating contemporary solutions.” Sethi furthers, “I am not entirely against Ayurvedic products, but at the same time if you have a chemical active doing the job, you don’t need to overcomplicate it by also adding some Ayurveda. There’s a belief that chemicals are harsh and Ayurveda is natural, and therefore they will balance each other out. That is not true. Many Ayurvedic formulations can cause complications you wouldn’t expect. Instead, keep it simple. If you have well-behaved skin, and an Ayurvedic face wash is working for you, use it. However, if you start to notice acne, then a chemical spot treatment might need to be added to the mix.” 

“I THINK THERE IS A PLACE FOR BOTH CHEMICAL ACTIVES AND AYURVEDIC AGENTS, AS LONG AS INGREDIENT QUALITY IS VERY HIGH AND CORRECT FORMULATING TECHNIQUES ARE USED”

Dr Charlene DeHaven

“The task here isn’t to distinguish between ‘chemical’ and ‘Ayurveda’. Instead, it’s about your skin concerns and what treatment works for them. Just because it isn’t Ayurveda, doesn’t mean it’s bad for you, and just because it’s Ayurveda, does not mean it will do wonders for you,” concludes Sethi. 

Also Read: Why it’s about time Ayurveda catered to the new-age beauty consumer

Also Read: 8 Ayurveda-inspired face masks to detoxify and brighten your skin

Also Read: Does the combination of Western actives and Ayurvedic ingredients really help Indian skin?


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