Are expensive wash-off products worth the investment?

Whether a cleanser or a shampoo—we wash it off anyway.  So should we be splurging on  exorbitantly priced rinsing products?

Haven’t we all saved some bucks to make that one luxury beauty purchase at some point in our lives? Unlike extravagant fashion or lifestyle products that are notorious for being aspirational, luxury beauty products always come with a layer of indulgence. However, not all luxury beauty products rank the same in terms of performance. Thus, while making such an investment, it becomes important to analyse the product’s multi-dimensionally—think ingredients, utility, efficacy, suitability and most importantly, whether you need it. We chat with industry experts to understand their take on overpriced wash-off products for the skin and hair, and whether they really outshine their drugstore alternatives.

How far can a wash-off product go?

From “pimple-clearing” and “brightening” face cleansers to “hydrating”, “volumizing” and “anti-dandruff” shampoos, there are a plethora of wash-off products for the skin, hair and body that claim to offer lasting benefits. However, it’s obvious to wonder how exactly a shampoo maintains the hair’s softness or how a cleanser alleviates acne and pigmentation; after all, they are rinsed off even before they can penetrate the skin or scalp.

“Face washes and shampoos cleanse the skin by removing oil and debris, leaving skin healthy and fresh. But they cannot do anything beyond that,” says Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Jaishree Sharad. “Some face washes with salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide do alter the skin’s pH and make it dry, thus, reducing oiliness. Some may also contain bleaching ingredients which make the skin look bright but only temporarily,” she adds.

Mini Sood Banerjee, marketing director of AMOREPACIFIC brands which include Sulwhasoo, believes that wash-off products such as cleansers and shampoos can provide benefits even if they are only in contact with the skin and hair for a short period of time. “A facial cleanser can help remove excess oil, dirt and make-up from the skin, resulting in more radiant-looking skin. A shampoo can help remove product build-up, oil and sweat from the scalp and hair, promoting healthier hair growth and scalp health. Additionally, many wash-off products are formulated with ingredients that can penetrate the skin and hair in a short period of time, delivering benefits beyond just surface cleansing. For example, a hair conditioner can contain ingredients that help smooth the hair cuticle, making hair easier to detangle and reduce breakage, even if the conditioner is rinsed out after only a minute or so,” she elaborates, placing the product’s formulation above its duration of exposure.

The drugstore versus luxury debate

We’ve all been made to believe that the higher you pay, the better the quality. According to Sood Banerjee, the price difference between expensive and drugstore wash-off products can be attributed to factors, such as brand reputation and the added costs attached to premium marketing and packaging. “The difference in the ingredients and formulations of these products may also play a role in justifying the price difference.”

Sharad, on the other hand, believes that the only major factor that differentiates luxury products from their drugstore counterparts is the price itself. “The ingredients used for the production of a cleanser or shampoos are not expensive. The price of a product is determined by the formulation, brand value, packaging, marketing and retailing of the product. The action of both kinds of wash-off products remains the same, in fact, most drugstore products are even US-FDA approved,” says the dermatologist.

Does an expensive product always spell maximised efficaciousness and thus, value for money? “Although drugstore products are less expensive, you essentially get what you pay for in terms of quality,” answers Dr Niketa Sonavane, Mumbai-based dermatologist. According to her, it also depends on one’s budget and requirements. “The formula is what distinguishes cheap and expensive cleansers,” believes Sonavane, echoing Sood Banerjee’s thoughts. “High-end skincare products involve higher-quality ingredients, more extensive research, better results and a more luxurious experience. These have gone through extensive research to deliver the best results. Besides this, the premium packaging also adds to the cost,” she informs. “You must complete your homework; a higher price doesn’t always imply that it is a luxury item or that it will produce better results.”

Do potent wash-off products equals higher ROI?

Be it iS Clinical’s Cleansing Complex, Tata Harper’s Regenerating Cleanser, La Mer’s Cleansing Foam or the hair wash products from rahua, Philip B or Briogeo, luxury beauty brands are famous for infusing that something extra in their formulations to make their products a cut above the rest. There could be a chemical exfoliant complex in a cleanser or a higher concentration of nourishing oils in shampoos, but does that make other products redundant?

“Using a wash-off product with actives does provide some amount of nourishment to skin and hair like unclogging pores and proper cleansing of skin without stripping off natural oils and making hair less frizzy. However, in such a short time, they provide less of the desired effect,” says Sharad, who believes that every product has its own property, utility and purpose.

According to Sood Banerjee, toners and serums can contain different active ingredients and formulations that complement the effects of a BHA-infused cleanser, for instance. “A toner can help balance the skin’s pH, prepare the skin for better absorption of subsequent skincare products, and provide additional hydration while a serum can contain a higher concentration of potent active ingredients providing targeted benefits to the skin,” she says, believing that an expensive cleanser (whether for skin or hair) is not a substitute for a well-rounded routine.

What’s best for you? 

All the experts come to the conclusion that the quality and efficiency of the formulation should be the foremost factor that influences your purchase decision. “According to me, expensive wash-off products are not always worth the investment. Drugstore products use cost-effective but effective ingredients and in lower concentration to keep the prices low and stay relevant in the competition,” shares Sharad. “Expensive wash-off products are valuable in the case of sensitive skin or for those with underlying skin conditions like acne, seborrhoea and pigmentation, where well-researched and more hard-working products must be used. In the case of hair, it’s advisable to splurge if a person is undergoing hair treatments like perming, straightening, smoothening, keratin or hair colour,” she adds.

Soma Sarkar, consulting dermatologist with Bioderma, says, “At times, a retinol or vitamin C active, in the right percentage, with the right vehicle, is going to be expensive as compared to the drug store equivalent. Take the example of peptides. The right peptides like octopeptide and tripeptides are drugs which are expensive and so will the products.” She recommends speaking to an expert, aesthetic physician or dermatologist who can prescribe the right product and educate you about your ideal day and night care routine. “More often than not, it’s the combination of drugstore and luxury products that works very well,” concludes Sarkar. 

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