The 'Blue City' of Jodhpur may not look the same in the future—and it's all our fault

Increased unseasonal rainfall in Rajasthan over the past decade has spelt disaster for Jodhpur’s iconic blue homes

“The charm of Jodhpur lies in its old blue homes—that colour, the vibrancy, the intricate architecture in the doors and windows of the homes and buildings makes you feel like you’ve travelled back in time to a more regal period,” Sonia Gehlot, an architect and daughter of Rajasthan’s former chief minister Ashok Gehlot tells The Established.

Gehlot grew up in Jodhpur and often visits the city with her children while visiting  her family’s old heritage home. However that “charm” Jodhpur once had is now slowly vanishing, as people move away from tradition and are embracing the modern, says Gehlot. 

“For example, in Santorini [in Greece], all the homes are pristine white except for the doors which are sometimes painted blue. That kind of uniformity really helps sustain the aesthetic beauty of a city,” says Gehlot.

Jodhpur was founded by Rao Jodha of the Rathore clan who ruled the kingdom of Marwar in 1459 CE. The Mehrangarh Fort sits atop a rocky hill, overlooking the sprawl of the city. Jodha selected Jodhpur as his capital because of the security the hills offered—he could look upon invaders while using the winding roads to his advantage to defend his castle, says author and historian Rima Hooja.

More than tangible damage

Jodhpur is a city built around its fort. The first circle is the ‘old city’ built centuries ago. This is surrounded by the ‘new city’ consisting of modern architecture built as the city and its population expanded and new infrastructure—such as the airport—was introduced.

Although it is difficult to trace exactly when the homes of Jodhpur turned blue, its moniker of the ‘blue city’ is synonymous with the city’s cultural identity, says Hooja. “Previously it was indigo mixed in with the limestone wash that gave the structures their blue colour. But as the years went on, people started using more chemical blues to retain that classic look,” explains Hooja. 

Light glistens off the ultraviolet blue homes that line Jodhpur’s skyline from atop the iconic Mehrangarh Fort. However, it’s no longer the sea of blue it once was—greys, yellows, pinks, and browns are gradually beginning to stand out. 

Over the last decade, western Rajasthan has received increased, unseasonal and more widespread rainfall every year, according to the Indian Meteorological Department (IMD). In 2023, Rajasthan recorded its highest-ever 24-hour rainfall of 109 mm at its Sriganganagar station in the northern part of the state, and 239 mm at the Erinpura/Jawai Dam station, as per the IMD, partly due to cyclone Biparjoy, which devastated the state that year. The previous highest recorded instances of 24-hour rainfall at these stations were in 1938 and 1977 respectively.

“Higher rainfall, especially in western Rajasthan, has led to dwindling desert species, particularly birds,” says Rajasthan-based wildlife conservationist Bishnoi. He adds that  birds from regions with wetter climates are migrating here, and if the current trend of increased rainfall continues, there would be a significant disruption in the animal life found in the desert. 

Farmers also have to be wary of the increased rainfall. While people assume more rainfall would naturally be beneficial, in Rajasthan, that isn’t so. One of the main crops cultivated in Rajasthan is cumin or jeera. It grows only in arid climates, but higher humidity means that farmers in Rajasthan may not get their desired yield, causing them economic losses, says Bishnoi, whose family owns a cumin farm. 

Compelled to consider alternatives

“Earlier it rained only from July through September [in Rajasthan], but now almost every month of the year we’re receiving rain,” shares Govind Singh Bhati, a resident of Jodhpur who has been organising heritage walks in the old city for a decade.  

This increased rainfall has spelt disaster for Jodhpur’s iconic blue homes. “These homes are 200-300 years old and are made of sandstone, which is not compatible with water. More rainfall means more moisture, and that water damages these homes,” adds Bhati.

The homes were painted blue for a number of reasons. According to Bhati, blue homes signified Brahmin residences. In ancient times, these homes, which surrounded the king's fort, served as an added layer of protection from invaders because it was considered blasphemous to kill Brahmins, explains Bhati. 

Another reason for the blue paint was perhaps a more practical one. Traditional Indian indigo mixed into the limestone used to build the homes repels sunlight as well as its ultraviolet effect—essential in a state that receives more than 300 days of natural sunlight. According to Bhati, the economics was also a factor, as it was one of the cheapest ways of painting one’s home.

However, while indigo is effective in repelling the sun’s rays, it cannot sustain when lashed with rain.

Nine generations of Chandrakala’s family have been living in Jodhpur’s Brahmpuri—one of the city’s oldest localities—in a home that’s about 350 years old. Now, the landscape around her is changing.

“Many old homes in this area have fallen down or have disintegrated because of lashing rain. No one lives in these homes anymore, so no one pays for their upkeep,” rues Chandrakala, adding that many people have moved to newer parts of the city or have left Jodhpur altogether.

This means that families like Chandrakala’s, who want to stick to their roots, have to spend money every year to maintain their homes.  

However, in the face of these concerns, several others are choosing to move away from the traditional blue and adopt modern materials such as oil paint or distemper and waterproof paint which last longer. This also means that people often end up ditching blue for other colours, uncoordinated with other homes in the neighbourhood. 

“When that happens we end up losing the charm of that old colour, that old blue…so I believe that there should be some regulations from the government,” says Gehlot.

According to Gehlot, glass buildings and other modern infrastructure inspired by buildings in Mumbai or in the United States have now started cropping up in Jodhpur. This is largely because a sense of reverence and regard for your own culture hasn’t been ingrained in the people of Jodhpur, or the country’s youth at large. “It is such an eyesore…I miss the feeling of landing in Jodhpur and feeling like one has entered into an old world,” adds Gehlot.

Fashion designer Raghavendra Rathore , the titular ‘Maharaja’ of Jodhpur agrees with Gehlot. “I feel that there needs to be a ministry of design which approves architectural changes; for example in Spain, culture is a very dominant aspect of anything that’s being built. Presently, in India, there’s no stipulation or guiding manual so people are free to do what they want. If somebody has a Zaha Hadid-inspired house, someone has a Dubai-inspired house, someone has a Bombay-inspired house, so I think that’s just the new India—we don’t really have a choice,” shares Rathore.

Falling prey to commercial development

According to Rathore, beyond environmental factors, the reason why Jodhpur’s landscape is fast changing is a purely monetary opportunity. Land sold to builders earns people crores, so they have no incentive to maintain and repair their old homes. Most land in the old city has been sold to developers who do not pay heed to the city’s original architectural heritage. Rathore says only a few homes remain untouched in the old city, ones that have been converted into guest houses or hotels. All other homes are “free for all”.

“If you have a plot in the centre of the city with a beautiful quaint haveli, what good is it? It can hardly accommodate two families. But if you knock that down—which is already being done in Jaipur—then you’ll have a shopping mall and a tall building; you’ll double, even quadruple your wealth,” he adds.

Gehlot feels that turning old homes into commercial properties is a good way of maintaining the city’s aesthetic identity. She points to the Raas haveli in Jodhpur which has been adapted into a luxury hotel. According to Bhati, beyond commercial concerns, without a real investment into examining the impact of climate change on the homes in Jodhpur and developing solutions, it would be nearly impossible to retain the city's cultural landscape. “Jodhpur is a perfect example of how a subject like climate change—which seems so abstract—is actually impacting our own local culture and civilisation. We need to start thinking about how we are going to adapt to this climate change so we can preserve our heritage for the coming generations,” says Bhati.

Hooja concurs, sharing that preserving India’s cultural history for the future is essential. “The palaces might be attracting us tourists today but tourists also want to know about the people who once lived here. Preserving the homes or the small workshops where local arts and craftsmanship can still be seen today is a key part,” she says. 

Rathore believes it is too late for a designer to comment as the damage has already been done. Gehlot, however, remains hopeful. “For those who haven’t been to Jodhpur, it is still a beautiful place. With vibrant colours in the attire of the people and the old markets, it is a cultural explosion. And when you look down from the Mehrangarh Fort you will still see blue homes—it still is the blue city,” concludes Gehlot. 

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