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Neharika Manjani profile imageNeharika Manjani

Suits have garnered a sizable female fan following. The Established discusses why their success is unlikely to be short-lived.

Why suits are likely to continue to reign over  women’s wardrobes

Suits have amassed a sizable female fan following. We discuss why their success is unlikely to be short-lived

If you attempt to find evidence of women wearing pantsuits in the early 1900s, your search will fetch you a fairly conclusive set of names. Back then, only a handful of female celebrities—Marlene Dietrich and Katharine Hepburn, to name a few—were seen trading in dresses for tailored separates, receiving applause for their sartorial choices being pathbreaking.

Today, however, such sightings are no longer rare, and the same amount of surprise doesn’t characterise the reactions they elicit. Once viewed as workwear for men, suits are commonly spotted on women as they walk down the aisle or attend prestigious red-carpet events. What has prompted this shift in perspective? And is it likely to last long? We asked fashion insiders with a soft spot for suiting and designers making space for the silhouette in their collections to weigh in.  

The sources 

The speed with which suits cement their presence in the closets of countless women has a lot to do with the growing number of options and accessibility. In the past, mainly storied fashion houses such as Saint Laurent and Chanel served up sought-after versions of silhouettes for women. Now, new, unexpected players have entered the game, with many homegrown names stocking exciting and authentic takes on suits. The pieces in Hyderabad-based designer Archana Rao’s collections are proof. “The suits I design are an extension of my brand’s aesthetic. They veer towards a pastel palette, are crafted using fluid fabrics and frequently feature embroidered details that add a whimsical element,” says Rao, who cites a powder pink iteration with 3D flowers as her favourite.

“You can’t go wrong with suits from Zara. They’ve been using stunning jewel tones lately,” says fashion influencer Karma Dhingra

“You can’t go wrong with suits from Zara. They’ve been using stunning jewel tones lately,” says fashion influencer Karma Dhingra

Hyderabad-based designer Archana Rao's suits veer towards a pastel palette using fluid fabrics and  feature embroidered details for a whimsical element

Hyderabad-based designer Archana Rao's suits veer towards a pastel palette using fluid fabrics and feature embroidered details for a whimsical element

In addition to local labels, high-street brands also incorporate various suits in their offerings. “You can’t go wrong with suits from Zara. They’ve been using stunning jewel tones lately,” says fashion influencer Karma Dhingra whose Instagram page is peppered with images that establish a strong preference for power dressing. 

 “We made our suits with lightweight satin, an easy fabric that translates seamlessly from day to night. To up the fun quotient, we’ve also added bold, statement prints as opposed to the small prints or safe stripes that you typically see,” says Saaksha Bhat, one half of the duo behind label Saaksha & Kinni

“We made our suits with lightweight satin, an easy fabric that translates seamlessly from day to night. To up the fun quotient, we’ve also added bold, statement prints as opposed to the small prints or safe stripes that you typically see,” says Saaksha Bhat, one half of the duo behind label Saaksha & Kinni

Blurring boundaries

The abundance of choice isn’t the only reason behind the rapid rise of suits. Recently, shoppers, particularly Gen Zers, have demonstrated an appetite for fashion that defies archaic rules, and suits fit this requirement perfectly. The renditions we’re witnessing today not only work hard towards erasing gender in clothing but also prove that the decades-old style, largely associated with professional settings, doesn’t need to be confined. Just like sneakers got multiple makeovers, suits, too, are being reimagined in ways that make them relevant outside an office setting. 

In the line-ups of several labels, especially those closer home, tailored styles are less rigid—slouch is favoured over structure—and delivered with a generous dose of glamour. Mumbai-based label Mishé, for example, offers a deconstructed, statement-making spin on suits. “We saw a gap in the Indian market for suits that could be worn at parties or non-professional events and we wanted to create the kind that made women feel powerful and stylish at the same time. We’ve used cuts that differ from conventional suits. In one of our designs, we’ve added several strings of pearls instead of buttons on the blazer,” says the label’s co-founder Bhumika Ahluwalia. Lavanya Aneja of Lea Clothing Co adopts a similar approach that embraces drama. “For suits, we love working with vibrant shades like sapphire and burgundy, and elevating them with pearls and feathers. Also, we bring glamour to such styles with signature boned corsetry,” she says.

Apart from attention-grabbing detailing, the fashion-forward facelift that suits are receiving involves some crucial swaps. Fluid, sumptuous fabrics are replacing stiff tweeds and playful prints are ousting pinstripes. Saaksha Bhat, one half of the duo behind label Saaksha & Kinni, attests to this. “This season, we made our suits with lightweight satin, an easy fabric that translates seamlessly from day to night. To up the fun quotient, we’ve also added bold, statement prints as opposed to the small prints or safe stripes that you typically see,” says Bhat, highlighting the elements that have helped suits evolve into an ensemble that feels at home almost everywhere. 

Potential allies 

Apart from their ability to adapt to varied occasions and locations, the appeal of suits is upped by a few other factors. For instance, the possibilities when it comes to styling are endless. While Bhat recommends pairing the blazer with a bustier or a bralette, Dhingra subscribes to a barely-there strategy. “I prefer it when the focus is on the suit entirely, and the easiest way to do this is to team it with a bodysuit that isn’t too visible or go completely bare with the help of some double-sided tape,” she says. Moreover, it’s important to note that the key components of a suit are just as impactful alone as they are together. Spend time studying how street-style influencers play around with the pieces that make up a suit, and you’ll see that they can befriend almost any basic.

Lea Clothing Co's suits are in vibrant shades like sapphire and burgundy elevated  with pearls,  feathers and  boned corsetry

Lea Clothing Co's suits are in vibrant shades like sapphire and burgundy elevated with pearls,  feathers and boned corsetry

 Bhumika Ahluwalia of Mumbai-based label Mishé saw a gap in the Indian market for suits that could be worn at parties or non-professional events

Bhumika Ahluwalia of Mumbai-based label Mishé saw a gap in the Indian market for suits that could be worn at parties or non-professional events

Rao elaborates on the ever-evolving list of allies. “A well-fitted blazer elevates a simple slip dress, and tailored trousers go with everything from a classic white shirt to a corset. A suit, as a whole or split up, comes with so much potential, which is why it will never go out of style,” says Rao, explaining that a silhouette with values like versatility and wearability at its core is likely to enjoy a lengthy reign.

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