Why do Indians love shopping at trunk shows?

It’s exhibition season, and we delve into why the format is a favoured one among local shoppers

It’s that time of the year again, when it’s hard to make it through a week without at least one shopping exhibition invite slipping into your inbox. Your Instagram feed is probably bursting with these updates. I’m headed to one right after I finish writing this. From pop-ups at neighbourhood cafés to trunk shows curated by city tastemakers and large-scale, multi-designer extravaganzas, there is a format for every aesthetic, wallet and occasion. And it holds true across the country from Mumbai and New Delhi to Ludhiana and Ahmedabad.

Exhibitions are an inherently Indian concept—a retail format that we seem to love. “We have grown up with the concept of exhibitions, and are very comfortable with it. For starters, the element of discovery makes it a no-brainer for many. It’s also ideal for shoppers with an urgency to convert [their currency] or those looking to spend their cash,” says Aisha Kothari Saraf, founder of Aispi that brings undiscovered European brands to India via trunk shows.

When the country’s more popular exhibitions took form over a decade ago—the likes of Design One, Araaish or IMC Ladies Wing’s Women Entrepreneurs Exhibition—it was often to bring glamour to a philanthropic cause. “The driving idea behind Design One, which is part of Sahachari Foundation’s fund-raising initiatives, was to give back to society while also providing a platform to female entrepreneurs who were largely working from home at that time,” explains Karuna Rajan, who is part of the event’s organising committee. 

Ever since, the concept of exhibitions have continued to thrive–and evolve–across the country. While those such as Design One retain their unwavering popularity, there is also a rise in more intimate events with limited brands on offer. In a country like India, where the profile of a shopper is so dynamic and diverse, is one working better than the other? Are they attracting the same crowd? Will the formats compete or coexist? We investigate further. 

The culture of exhibitions 

When they first took shape, exhibitions typically attracted moneyed crowds, oftentimes housewives looking to spend their pocket money. “The audience has definitely evolved. The average person wants to be well turned out today. They want to be stylish for the plethora of events that dominate the Indian social and festive calendars,” says Rajan. “Rise in working women and their financial independence has also contributed to this change,” she adds.  

The draw was, and continues to be, variety. Design One, for instance, boasts up to 140 participants across genres like fashion, food, lifestyle and gifting under one roof, screened over a period of six months to ensure a worthy edit. This ensures there is something for everyone, across budgets. There is a trust factor involved as well; it makes the shopper confident of purchasing from new brands. “They are important for brand awareness and to gain credibility,” adds Kothari, who had an experiential booth at Bridal Asia’s Mumbai edition earlier this year.

The turn towards trunk shows  

The tide has been turning towards trunk shows of late, particularly smaller events with tighter edits. Internationally, trunk shows are very exclusive, invite-only events focused as much on the experience as they are on the product. The concept is being reimagined for the Indian audience today.

“We have retained the ethos of the concept and created a hybrid version for India,” says Saraf, who feels the formats that have worked best for them so far are experience-driven pop-ups at exciting restaurants, private events at upscale homes hosted by a society tastemaker or digital drops where consumers can sign up to interact with Aispi’s European designers online before making a purchase. These are models they have tested across cities including New Delhi, Indore, Mumbai, Hyderabad, Ludhiana and Kolkata in the last two years. The latter is definitely a hub for exhibitions, with popular events like Gauri Bajoria Ahuja’s Savoir Faire.

A popular new name on the scene includes style curator Chikky Goenka’s Styleograph edits where she brings big-ticket couturiers—names like Payal Singhal, Shantanu & Nikhil, Itrh, Torani and Rimzim Dadu—to the city in pairs or trios, or a selection of about 10 luxury pret labels. “The designers are chosen based on the theme of that particular show. I follow a brand’s growth to track the right time to present them to the city, and be the first one to bring them to Kolkata,” she explains. She also curates ‘Made in Bengal’ trunk shows that take local brands outside of their home city. Experience and exclusive access are central to both her offerings. “When people are spending big bucks on the kind of designers we bring them, the process needs to be enjoyable as well.” That’s what sets intimate trunk shows give them. 

Take Mumbai’s Living Room Story by Ashmi Bhansali and Sanaa Choksi, for instance, who have now roped in leading stylist Anaita Shroff Adajania to co-curate their edit. “We want to bring inaccessible names to the city in a very homely set-up. The idea is to be able to put together a head-to-toe look with our curation, and we are always around with styling advice,” Choksi tells us. 

Brands favour the model with standalone pop-ups at buzzing venues too. “It’s a great testing ground for a new neighbourhood or city, to engage with and educate customers, change brand perception and introduce the product to a parallel market,” says Nimish Shah, creative director of Bhaane, a contemporary clothing brand known to host several solo pop-ups across the country. “It works for brands like us as we get to achieve all of this without immediately investing big money in a permanent retail store,” he adds.

Is one more popular than the other?

Considering the market is so versatile, a one-size-fits-all approach isn’t the answer. So it follows that the multiple formats needn’t really compete with each other. Each is tailor-made for a different audience. “There is a lot of disposable income across age groups and strata of society in India. Exhibitions with a high footfall work with certain consumers as it democratises the shopping experience. It’s for those who just want the product, and find the engagement aspect to be intimidating,” feels Shah. For others, that is key. “It’s imperative that the designers be present at all our shows as our shoppers are looking for a personalised experience. It’s a big value-add,” Goenka reveals.

So while exhibitions work for a more cost-conscious, variety-seeking shopper, trunk shows tend to attract a more informed, design-oriented audience. “The feedback we often get from our consumers is that they find larger exhibitions overwhelming and confusing. They want fewer, more thought-through choices in an uncluttered space. They want to resonate with the brands as much as they want to with the overall vibe of the ambience being provided,” signs off Choksi. 

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