Why are homegrown footwear brands in India on the rise?

We ask both seasoned and new players in the footwear industry to share their insights on its burgeoning growth

Dorothy and her ruby red shoes, Carrie Bradshaw and her crystal-encrusted Manolos, Cinderella and her glass slippers–the list could go on. Upon a closer look, you’ll find that we’re surrounded by several such stories where the protagonist’s shoes are remembered and referenced more than their clothes, proving that footwear has long played a leading, rather than supporting, role.

The burgeoning footwear industry in India stands as further proof. A recent study by database tracker Statista states that its revenue currently amounts to $9.35 billion and the market is expected to grow annually by 13.54 per cent. These numbers are also clear indicators that our options when it comes to footwear are no longer few and far between. Whether you’re looking for a pair of sturdy sneakers or sky-high stilettos, you’re choosing from not a handful but a host of homegrown labels. While we’re happy to be spoiled for choice, we’re also curious to know what’s causing this rapid rise.

The case for comfort

Most of the brands we spoke to stated that the Indian consumer seeks comfort the most whilst selecting a pair of shoes. It’s what we all want during long commutes, at an endless day in the office or while dancing the night away at a friend’s wedding. Brands are entering the market armed with this awareness. “Footwear is now more focused on comfort and [we are] innovating new soles keeping that in mind,” says Aradhana Minawala, co-founder of The Cai Store–an online brand with a large following for its pretty, pillowy styles.

Laksheeta Govil, founder of Fizzy Goblet, attests that keeping a close eye on the comfort factor is the key to success. “When we started out eight years ago, juttis had the reputation of being very hard with an uncomfortable sole. It took six months of research to create the most comfortable, pure leather juttis with double padding,” she says. Neha Kumthekar, co-founder of Oceedee, also has a similar story to share. “Our design and production team spend a great deal of time testing the product for fit and material before launching it on our website to ensure that the ergonomics of lasting comfort are considered,” says Kumthekar. Her bridge-to-luxury brand uses ethically sourced and cruelty-free leather to create brogues, boots and even heels that don’t compromise on comfort.

Affordability matters

Once comfort is checked off the list, one would assume that style would be the next and even adjacent priority. According to Afshan Virani, co-founder of vegan accessories brand Sole Stories, the balance the average Indian is looking for is a little different. “In my experience, from the perspective of a larger, mass audience, comfort alongside affordability is the sweet spot for India,” she says. Back in the day, if comfort was what you were after, your best bet would be something from a sportswear giant that would set you back by at least a few thousand rupees. Today, brands like The Cai Store offer plump, cloud-like soles for a fraction of the price (their shoes start at ₹999). Shenaz Tejani of Mumbai-based Bottomline–a go-to brand for fuss-free and pocket-friendly footwear–suggests that this is precisely what’s fuelling the rise of Indian footwear brands. “From sourcing materials to the craftsmanship, we meticulously track and check everything. So, in terms of quality, we’re no less than an international brand but our prices are quite reasonable. If you’re getting the same quality as an international brand at a better price, you are bound to make the switch,” she says.

Beauty in diversity

Another want that local brands are recognising is, funnily enough, best explained by drawing an analogy to food. Have you ever noticed that menus of popular food chains feature items tweaked to appeal to the Indian palate, one that’s known to enjoy a generous dose of spice? This love for flavour, spice and that extra something extends itself to footwear and young Indian brands are including this insight in their products. “Consumers here are not intimidated by bold colours and sparkling embellishments,” adds Govil whose much-loved juttis don’t shy away from either.

However, this in no way means that we, as a country, are predictable. Festive styles may have a firm footing in our wardrobe but we are also quick to test-run every trend from dad sneakers to floaters. This need for diversity drives demand and makes room for more players–it’s the reason why brands as varied as Fizzy Goblet and Kilchu can co-exist and thrive in India. “We are a population who love experimenting. We are open to change and ready to be surprised,” says Akanksha Rathore, the name behind Kilchu, a brand that cites a minimal Bauhaus collection as its bestseller.

Selling stories

There’s a lot of research around how shoes say a lot about their wearer and help us form first impressions. Flip-flops, for example, can be indicative of light-heartedness and a laidback agenda for the day. But today’s consumers want their shoes to offer more than a mere glimpse into their personality and plans. They want them to tell tales of their values, and brands like Virani’s Sole Stories bring that to the table.

“Sole Stories was always meant to be a brand that does more than just sell shoes. Right from its inception, it was about storytelling and connecting. It was important to share the stories of our karigars who worked so hard in lovingly hand-crafting each pair and the wonderful women who ended up making the pairs a part of their wardrobes,” says Virani, who reveals another layer to her products as she discusses her continuous and consistent efforts to use eco-friendly materials. “A big part of our ethos is researching and learning to work with alternate materials that prove to be sustainable and cruelty-free while maintaining our design philosophy,” she says.

The path ahead

Virani isn’t alone in this endeavour. Amar Preet Singh, co-founder of Neeman’s, explains that the Indian consumer’s appetite for eco-friendly experiments is increasing. His brand, which has cool yet conscious sneakers at its core, takes pride in introducing its audience to a new sustainable material with each collection. They’ve incorporated Merino wool, natural cotton, recycled plastic bottles and recycled tyres in their designs.

“In the initial months, it was not about creating brand awareness alone but also educating people about the importance of sustainable footwear. We communicated through various channels that we aren’t just another shoe company that’s entering the market but a brand that’s taking steps to curtail the pollution caused by the footwear industry. The feedback so far has been exceptional. Since the pandemic began, we have grown twenty times and have had repeats flowing in,” says Singh.

In addition to the use of eco-friendly materials, Singh credits Neeman’s growth to the ease of e-commerce, which benefits both sellers and consumers, as it does away with the constraints of physical spaces while catering to the convenience that so many of us have gotten accustomed to, after two years of turning to virtual shelves. “Instead of being in a crowded marketplace, we focused on making it easy for the customer to reach us. After the pandemic hit, many companies, including ours, are retaining the options of both online and offline platforms. Online buying of footwear is however here to stay, and its share will only increase,” says Singh, highlighting the way forward.

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