As homegrown labels aim to go global, we find out if Hollywood stars are important to their growth graph
It’s true that nothing sells like celebrity status does. Fashion, in particular, has courted movie stars for decades—racing to be seen on the It-girl (or guy) of the moment, in a bid to take their brand to the celebrity’s millions of followers. In India—a market that continues to be heavily influenced by Bollywood—‘celebrity spottings’ are key for fashion labels, whether established or emerging.
With the blurring of borders around the world, designers are looking to expand their footprint without being dictated by geography. So what happens when a homegrown brand is spotted on a celebrity of international repute? Such as when designer Gaurav Gupta’s couture creations are worn by the likes of Cardi B, Meghan Thee Stallion, Pixie Lott and Liza Koshy, all these in the last few months alone. Olivia Rodrigo wore earrings designed by Outhouse to the MTV Awards earlier this month. Misho’s jewellery has been seen on almost every celebrity from Kendall Jenner and Dua Lipa to Lady Gaga. The Anita Dongre dress worn by Kate Middleton during her India tour in 2016 made headlines and was an instant sellout. Being seen on a renowned global figure is a surefire conversation-starter—for instance, when Sarah Jessica Parker wore a Falguni Shane Peacock lehenga on the last season of And Just Like That, it garnered the brand (which has also been worn by Beyoncé, Paris Hilton and Jennifer Lopez in the past) eyeballs, even if the outfit and episode in question did spark ample debate. But it also leads one to wonder about the goal here—is it just another PR exercise? Is it a sales-driven strategy? Are the brands trying to create value to enter an international market? Or is it all of the above?
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Gaurav Gupta’s creations are worn by many international celebrities, including actress and television host Liza Koshy
American singer Olivia Rodrigo wore earrings designed by Outhouse to the MTV Awards earlier this month
The culture context
For Gupta, it first boils down to being part of a defining moment in pop culture by aligning with the right celebrities. “We are a statement-making, culturalist brand. So we look at these as cultural collaborations, and go really deep into the celebrity’s style. It’s a process—we are given a brief following which we send our proposal and sketches before making the final pieces,” he shares. The gown for Cardi B’s No Love video was custom-made in three weeks using their indigenous sculpting technique, which the rapper’s stylist Kollin Carter saw on a dress and hence chose.
“IF YOU ARE THE ONLY INDIAN BRAND ON A RED CARPET THAT’S OTHERWISE A SEA OF OTHER INTERNATIONAL LEGACY BRANDS, EVERYONE IS BOUND TO NOTICE YOU. IT LEADS TO GREATER RECALL VALUE IN THE MINDS OF RETAILERS, PERSONAL SHOPPERS AND STYLISTS"
Gaurav Gupta
According to Kaabia Grewal, co-founder of Outhouse, it often signals the next organic step in a brand’s journey. “If you’ve been in your home market long enough, there is a need to seek newness. You’ve probably done enough shows, events and celebrity associations in one market. So identifying what’s next is the only way to expand your horizons,” she explains. Aisha Rawji, CEO and founder of Los Angeles-based Kynah and Kiska Studios—stylist Debra McGuire has sourced Indian outfits for the cast of upcoming Jennifer Aniston-starrer Murder Mystery 2 from Kynah—attests to the clout and mainstream media mileage it lends a brand. “But when the outfit in question is a traditional Indian one, it also helps bring another viewpoint on how these designs can be styled or worn,” she says. “It shows the versatility of Indian garments outside of traditional South Asian events. It can be tricky territory as it can also raise questions about cultural appropriation, so it needs to be done right,” Rawji adds.
Going global
If a brand’s ambitions include conquering multiple spots on the world map, celebrities are one pillar of a strategy that also includes international stockists and presence. Some designers work with PR and marketing agencies in key fashion capitals including New York, Los Angeles and London, who place the brand at the right events on the right celebrities. Others may have direct connections with a stylist, and others yet are serendipitously discovered through social media. “Being able to expand your client base is a fringe benefit. There is a lot more discovery from different parts of the world,” says Gupta. Not just by shoppers, but by merchandisers and buyers too. “If you are the only Indian brand on a red carpet that’s otherwise a sea of other international legacy brands, everyone is bound to notice you. It leads to greater recall value in the minds of retailers, personal shoppers and stylists,” he carries on.
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American rapper Megan Thee Stallion wore a couture dress by Gaurav Gupta at this year's Oscar red carpet
Are orders quick to follow? “We are a couture brand, so you might not sell the outfit tomorrow, but there are always a lot of inquiries. It also helps us understand (and create) demand in the United States or Europe, and we can curate strategic trunk shows and pop-ups accordingly,” Gupta reveals. Grewal, though, cites immediate add-to-cart responses in several cases. “We had a lot of sales on the earrings worn by Olivia Rodrigo that very day. When Beyoncé wore our Birdwing duster earrings, there were a lot of international orders on it,” she adds. “But India is very local celebrity-driven. A Deepika Padukone or Priyanka Chopra will have more impact on sales here than Beyoncé will!”
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British singer-songwriter Niall Horan was spotted in an embroidered shirt by Harago
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Jaipur-based menswear label Harago's embroidered shorts worn by Harry Styles
The end game
The goal, it appears, is much larger than selling out a particular item. Brand building ultimately takes precedence. “If you’re looking to build an international market, you need to think long-term,” says Harsh Agarwal of Jaipur-based menswear label Harago, which has been worn by musicians Harry Styles and Niall Horan, and members of K-pop band Nu'est, among others. Once Harago started stocking with major international luxury retailers (they are on Matches Fashion, Ssense and Le Monde De Shc), they saw direct purchases from celebrities and their personal shoppers. “So we’ve not always had promotional photos to share on social media to drive sales. But where it does help is building up your brand’s value and global appeal, even if it does not always reflect in sales.” Grewal agrees,“It boils down to the credibility international celebrities bring to your brand. There is an inclination to know your brand better when you then reach out to new stores or stylists.” But she also points out the importance of having a strategy in place, once you do begin this rollout. Consistency is key, according to her. “If you really want to create a ripple effect, it’s important to streamline your logistics and availability before you approach celebrities. Have an online marketplace or the right stockists to cater to any demand. Update your clients and amplify the sighting for maximum mileage from the sighting, and not just via social media.”
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