The queer influence on everyday wardrobes

Of late, fashion is the queerest it has ever been both online and on the runways. But does it find space in wardrobes?

In the Gen Z-fostered age of acceptance, self-expression takes centre stage, bleeding into sartorial codes. With no shortage of flamboyant style icons in mainstream media, à la Harry Styles or Ranveer Singh, luxury fashion houses like Gucci and Fendi are leaning towards an androgynous design language. Moreover, with social media providing a platform for the numerous queer voices in fashion, the lines have begun to blur. 

“Queer fashion is having its moment because currently it’s become trendy to accept all genders and sexualities,” says stylist Akshay Tyagi. “Television shows like Euphoria and Pose have allowed people to be more comfortable in owning their sexualities as well.” While pop culture has been essential in pushing the LGBTQIA+ agenda, queerness is inextricably linked to fashion. “Queer culture and fashion are interlinked because queer people appreciate fashion the most, especially the kind of fashion that we’re seeing now,” says Sushiru, who uses fashion as a tool for self-expression in everyday life and through their drag queen persona, Dame Imfala.

Fashion, however, has a disparity problem. People have always looked at the often theatrical fashion on runways and wondered who wears it. A similar disconnect has risen with queer fashion, where runway styles don’t necessarily translate into everyday wear. “What you see on social media is controlled and specifically curated,” says Tyagi. “The reality is different; you have to be confident to dress however you want without fearing shame.”

The disparity often stems from a lack of proper normalisation in the Indian fashion context. “Bigger brands or designer brands, which call themselves the flag bearers of Indian couture, need to start normalising things beyond just roping in a gender non-conforming person for a shoot,” says Ronak Choudhary, creative director at Roch Studio. “There must be inclusivity on the runways, campaigns and when hiring staff too. In a global context, there has been progress, but hate crimes have also increased, and it’s weird to think that there is a spotlight being ‘enjoyed’ by the queer community in fashion when there is no genuine support to back that up,” adds Choudhary.

The social media connect

The COVID-19 pandemic solidified our dependence on social media, drastically altering our interactions as we switched to online spaces that naturally encourage self-expression and uniqueness. Standing out is crucial to a viral moment, and the relative safety of the virtual landscape has allowed queerness in fashion to flourish through both queer and cishet creators.

“Queer people are more susceptible to bullying, increasingly becoming victims of hate crimes. Being in their own space, creating content and expressing themselves through social media is better than exposing themselves sartorially to the world,” says Choudhary. While pushing boundaries seems more effortless in the more intimate setting of a phone screen, Tyagi believes social media only creates an illusion of a safe space. “There is a lot of online hate. The same people who are acerbic in real life will not hesitate to use tech to spew hate. So while there is a sense of safety in expressing yourself in your bubble, it also leaves you vulnerable to unnecessary commentary,” he says. 

A tricky balance 

Runways, social media, movies and TV shows offer a vantage point of disconnected safety where non-conformity, blurred gender codes and exuberant queerness are accepted. Campy frills and bows are seen as praiseworthy. At the same time, the badges of 'gayness' are rejected in real life, subjecting community members to ridicule at best and violent aggression at worst.

With more fluid and provocative fashion being normalised outside queer spaces, what does it mean for the community members who use fashion to express themselves and own their sexuality? It depends on intention, says Sushiru. "Sure, people use queer fashion as a statement, and queer-baiting is a big conversation, but this has been going on for a while now. For example, celebrities like Madonna or Lady Gaga are known as queer icons without being a part of the community, but they also extend support to the community. I dislike it when some people adopt queer fashion but don't actively stand up for LGBTQIA+ rights. That's when I feel like our space is being encroached upon."

There is also something to say about normalising stepping out of heteronormative boxes. “That fashion is rethinking gender codes that have historically governed how men or women dress is a good thing,” says Shweta Shiware, a columnist with Mid-day and The Voice of Fashion, who identifies as queer.

The transition 

How can this shift to a more fluid fashion, as seen on the runways and on screen, translate to everyday wardrobes? Brands and designers can play a crucial role. “A lot of brands obviously want to appreciate and incorporate whatever they have to offer in their brand image, but they’re also scared of how their audience will view them,” says Sushiru. “They’re willing to use everything we wear, but they don’t want to cast queer people for the same campaigns, which I find worrisome.” The answer is easy, according to them. “Hire from the queer community,” they echo repeatedly.

Choudhary agrees, “Bigger brands with a larger influence and clout can normalise queer fashion beyond the runways. Be vocal for the community, and don’t indulge in tokenism. Hire multiple models, have queer people work in your stores, and give them jobs. Queer people are most susceptible to losing their jobs because of their sexuality.”

There’s also something to be said about not fetishising queer fashion by focusing on people’s identities beyond their sexuality. For Tyagi, the styling process doesn’t differ for his queer or cishet clients. “To me, people are people,” he says. “I go with the body types, tastes and facts of this matter. Whatever you’re comfortable with, as long as it suits you and it doesn’t seem like you’re forcing it or trying too hard, works best.”

Brands and creators need to underscore the importance of embracing identity in a step towards normalising queer fashion for everyday life. “The whole point of being on the spectrum is about the freedom to colour outside the box,” says Shiware. “Queer self-expression in clothing is about the refusal of [hetero]normativity, straightness and the gender binary. This significant detail escapes most fashion brands when they stick the entire community into neat labels of genderless or androgynous fashion. Instead, I’d suggest brands adopt a broader, inclusive approach that goes beyond gender neutrality and create clothes that include size, disability and sustainable values.”

In the end, however, it’s all about having fun with fashion, whether you use it to express yourself or dress into who you want to be. As long as you’re comfortable in your skin and the clothes you choose to wear, queer or not.

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