The bridge-to-luxury brand boom in India

Is the rise of BTL labels a case of catch ’em young?

That the Indian fashion industry is in a state of flux is not something that’s up for debate. After a wobbly run during the early days of the pandemic in 2020, homegrown brands have rethought their models to keep businesses afloat. Pret offshoots (yes, the flood of kaftans and co-ord sets) from labels that were once only limited to high-end clothing became the then tactic of choice. Next came the serious case of binge-shopping by the country’s two leading corporate houses, Reliance Brands Limited (RBL) and Aditya Birla Fashion & Retail Limited (ABFRL) pouring investments in leading designer labels to launch new lines and amp up their existing businesses. Cue: the bridge-to-luxury boom that we are now witnessing.

In the past few months, an increasing number of designers have announced their bridge-to-luxury lines. Simply put, these are “accessible luxury” brands that serve as a pathway for customers to buy into premium brands as a result of lowered price points. “Bridge-to-luxury brands are a segway for consumers who want to go up the ladder of the luxury world,” explains Anamika Khanna, whose bridge-to-luxury brand AK-OK, launched in 2019, entered into a 60-40 partnership with RBL last December. “Clothing and style are becoming a source of identity for younger Gen-Z consumers. Expression, freedom to choose the way you live, and who you want to be is the new zeitgeist. The BTL segment plays an important role here,” adds Khanna. For Tina Tahiliani, CEO of popular multi-designer store Ensemble, the premise (and thereby the reason for its boom) is simple: “Bridge-to-luxury has come up now than ever before as it makes the brand accessible to the masses, catering to a larger audience who wants to own a piece of luxury.”

The timing is definitely right to tap into a market that is only poised to grow. According to Euromonitor International, India's luxury goods market will be worth $8.5 billion this year, compared to last year’s $6 billion figure. As per another report by Retail Dive, India’s elite class is expected to grow from currently 10 million households to 26 million by 2025. Additionally, the overall average household income is expected to multiply by 1.7 times by 2025 too. “There is a market for everybody and everything. It is naïve to think that luxury will not dip its toes into other parts of the fashion stratosphere. This is a segment we are personally looking to have a lot of fun with in the coming years,” says couturier JJ Valaya who launched his BTL line JJV this March.

Who’s betting on bridge-to-luxury?

While increasing disposable income, growing awareness among shoppers, the influence of Gen-Z consumers, and a spurt in digital shopping are key growth factors, it’s the corporatisation of Indian fashion that has a significant role to play. It’s the natural step for corporate giants tapping into brands to target young, digitally-savvy consumers, and “ease them into couture,” as Manish Malhotra says of his bridge-to-luxury brand Diffuse, launched after Reliance Industries picked up 40 per cent stake in his company. “I had created some limited-edition abstract prints a while ago, mainly for the younger clients. They loved it so much that I thought of introducing an entire segment. From a business point of view, we had to keep the price point conscious since we are now catering to a younger demographic,” explains the designer.

Designer duo Shantanu and Nikhil Mehra were one of the early players in the space, when they launched their bridge-to-luxury celebration wear brand S&N in 2020, following their strategicjoint venture with ABFRL in 2019. Today, the label, aimed at millennials looking to celebrate every milestone in life, boasts four stores across India, and four more in the making. “The fact that Indian fashion is getting heavily corporatised makes the BTL approach more valuable in terms of both scale and marketability,” says Nikhil Mehra. “Corporate entities such as ABFRL encourage a powerful demand-supply chain which has the potential to boost the business strategy of a design house. Brand extensions from couturiers such as ourselves ensures funnelling of the business from just luxury to bridge-to-luxury,” adds Shantnu Mehra.

All about the timing

According to Valaya, it’s only logical for couture houses to enter this segment once their core business is well established. “I have wanted, for a long time, that my brand be a part of people’s celebrations of every kind, not just weddings. So it was important to create a lighter, more accessible line which one could just pack for travels or wear beyond for multiple occasions. The thought was: could I bring the same philosophy but in a cooler form to a line which is easier and more buzzing?” says the designer. “But the past two years have been a roller-coaster ride for everybody. The consumer was there but the market was not, which is the reason it is happening now.”

The pent-up demand from the pandemic-induced lockdowns is working in favour of these newfound bridge-to-luxury brands, according to Tahiliani. “The market is growing tremendously. Moreover, the past two years gave designers the time to assess their offerings and explore affordable ranges that honestly have the potential to be more creatively satisfying than bridal wear,” she says. Khanna maintains that the growth spurt is only a response to how the market, and the world around us, is changing. “The middle class is growing, with more disposable income. What was aspirational and hard to get once, is now much more available and within reach. Additionally, social media has levelled the playing field—everyone is aware of what is happening around the world and tastes are constantly evolving,” adds Khanna.

Thinking beyond weddings

So what exactly are these labels offering? Think everything from occasion wear and accessories to street wear and elevated everyday wear. How much will it set you back by? Price tags can range anywhere from ₹ 8,000 to a lakh, depending on the brand. S&N has neo-modern shirts, jackets, draped kurtas to bundis and bandhgalas for men, and sari gowns, draped skirts, cowl trousers and corset tops for women, alongside accessories for both. For Khanna, it’s everyday pieces that capitalise on her signature drapes and co-ord sets, but in the form of prints which incorporate her now-coveted AK-OK logo. At JJV, you can buy sustainable shirts, jackets, breeches, Nehru jackets, saris, kaftans, maxi dresses and tunics made from eco-conscious filament yarn Tensil Luxe.

Diffuse, which is very consciously targeting a young audience, lays stress on “year-round wearables”. The line is majorly made of separates that one can mix and match. “There are many prints and eclectic gender-fluid editions of sweatshirts and zipper jackets,” explains Malhotra.

The smell of success

While it may still be early to say with precision how lucrative the move has been for brands, there is no denying the appeal of the idea. Why does it work? Khanna, Malhotra, and the Mehras all attest that it boils down, in a big way, to versatility and usability. The segment offers consumers designer clothing which needn’t be limited to one-time wears (as is often the case with traditional occasion wear); definitely a more compelling reason to drop money on these pieces.

“A fashion connoisseur’s approach towards consumption has taken a more emotional shift, one which is now more centred around accessibility, durability and sustainability,” explains Shantanu. “Unless it's the person who is getting married, most people are looking for products which can be worn and re-worn even a few years down the line.” Tahiliani, too, feels that the business viability of this category is strong because the re-wear value is high. “A luxury pret piece can be styled up or down to fit into a very wide range of occasions depending on the way one styles it.”

The consumers are definitely not complaining. It’s a win-win for brands as well, who not only get to offer their existing patrons a new product, but also go after a new demographic altogether. As Valaya rightly puts it: “JJV was something I always wanted to do because it opens up a completely different market for us besides the existing Valaya clients. It includes almost anybody who wants a slice of Valaya to be a part of their celebrations and life, not just weddings.”

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