Manish Malhotra’s association with Mijwan Welfare Society supports women chikankari artisans

The designer speaks about attempting to revive the craft of chikankari by empowering the rural women of India through his collections

Designer Manish Malhotra’s association with Mijwan Welfare Society (MWS), an NGO founded by the late Urdu poet Kaifi Azmi and now led by his daughter Shabana Azmi along with MWS member Namrata Goyal, dates back to 2012. He had adopted chikankari centres in rural Uttar Pradesh with the aim to empower women through employment and educate the girl child whilst preserving the craft of chikankari.

For a decade now, Malhotra has showcased a collection every year, handcrafted by a tight-knit community of women. It started with just 40 of them and has now grown to having over 600 women employed by the NGO. This year marked a special occasion for Malhotra, as he celebrated ten years of his association with MWS. The runway show, held at the Jio Convention Centre in Mumbai over the weekend, sought between tradition and innovation with flowing silhouettes, feathered corsets, crossover styles and exaggerated sleeves on lehengas and sherwanis, all exquisitely handcrafted and hand-embroidered.

We caught up with the designer to talk about this special collection and his decade-long journey with the foundation.

What is the inspiration behind this collection?

Chikankari embroidery’s core technique works well with most Indian silhouettes, from lehengas and sarees to gowns. There’s a constant innovation of the craft itself, as seen in our collections. This year's collection is a fusion involving different motifs and techniques. The embroidery is so intricate that it requires skilled hands and training, which we provide at Mijwan Welfare Society. This enables the women who work on the embroidery to carve their way forward and become independent through the earnings. Chikankari is an ancient craft preserved with constant efforts and initiatives, and hence is an investment in heritage. This very heritage was modernised and revived at our Mijwan Couture Show.

You have been associated with the Mijwan Welfare Society since a long time. How are you empowering women from villages through your designs and collection?

Ten years ago, I adopted the sewing and tailoring centre at Mijwan in a collaborative effort with Shabana Azmi and Namrata Goyal to support the artisans and revive chikankari. Through training, they learn new embroidering techniques that help them embroider on the base of silhouettes. Furthermore, the material went to the atelier and was revived by design to up its ante. Women from rural areas earn competitive remuneration out of handcrafting, through which they contribute towards their own lives, their families and educate their children too. Over the years, their craft has translated into the language of couture.

As you celebrate your 10th year with Mijwan, what makes this collection special from the previous ones?

The fact that we completed a decade-long alliance that has transformed lives and communities. From a group of 40 women ten years ago to over 600 today, they have earned a living and claimed their power in the patriarchal society. This year celebrates achievements with immense pride and prosperity.

What’s next in store for you?

The brand is growing, it is more structured now. We’re bringing additional changes and innovations, and expansion plans are underway as well. Wait till you see them!

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