It’s peak summer. Why are we choosing excess over comfort while dressing up?

Even with a heatwave in progress, high-octane fashion continues to populate our carts and closets. We asked experts to decode our growing desire to dress up

Once the party season comes to an end, more often than not, sightings of sparkle, shine and other dramatic details that tend to dominate our social media feeds during the months of December and January are few and far between. However, lately, even though we’re in the peak of summer, our appetite for excess doesn’t seem to have diminished. Instead of wholeheartedly embracing lightweight linens and pretty pastels, countless labels continue to offer party pieces, and consumers seem to be lapping them up.

A recent example of this trend is high-street giant H&M’s much-anticipated collaboration with French fashion house Mugler. The capsule collection, which had cut-outs, rhinestones, and a generous dose of mesh at its core, flew off the shelves not only because it democratised high fashion but also because it catered to our growing love for glamour. This evident demand for impactful occasion wear during a time that’s traditionally characterised by an easier, airier approach to fashion raises a few questions: Does our desire to dress up now last all year long? What’s contributing to this shift? Will it evolve or fizzle out? We get industry insiders to weigh in. 

The ‘more is more’ movement  

According to The State of Fashion 2023, a report co-published by the Business of Fashion and McKinsey & Company, our fondness for statement-making styles is unlikely to be short-lived, since occasion wear is expected to be one of the top three growth categories in 2023. The buying behaviours seen by labels closer home are in line with this prediction. “While there might be a slight uptick in sales for party wear during the holiday season, we’ve found that there is a steady demand for it throughout the year,” says Shweta Agarwal, co-founder of Āroka, a label known for its deftly draped satin dresses in jewel tones.

Amalie Othilia Brandi Mikkelsen of Delhi-based brand Malie shares similar insights. “We include festive styles in all of our collections. We’ve noticed that our clients tend to like occasion wear and this isn’t restricted to certain seasons,” says Brandi Mikkelsen, whose latest line-up, which dropped in April this year, features feathers, fringe and electric hues. Additionally, it’s important to note that these observations aren’t confined to clothes alone. Aisha Saraf Kothari, who has made several unabashedly glamorous labels from across the globe accessible to Indian audiences through her e-commerce platform AiSPi, explains that we’re also increasingly opting for drama when it comes to our accessories. “Some of our top-selling brands include Rosantica for its bejewelled designs, L’alingi for its colourful, crystal-encrusted micro clutches, and Marzook for its pill-shaped bags. These items are popular even after the party season.” 

The key contributors

While many might attribute what we’re witnessing to the COVID-19 pandemic–months spent in sweatpants made us yearn for the going-out gear we unwillingly retired to the back of our closets–our love for dressing up is also driven by a few other factors. “We’re living in an era of self-expression and self-acceptance. People are embracing their individuality through experimental fashion, which is one reason we’ve seen a consistent demand for our collections even outside the holiday season,” says Agarwal. And as we become unafraid to show up as the most authentic version of ourselves, we’re steadily shelving sartorial stereotypes. Just like sneakers found unlikely partners in lehengas, high-octane styles are also being worn in ways that are far from conventional.

“People are using their statement pieces beyond that one cocktail dinner. They’re pairing bold accessories with everything from traditional clothes to a simple pair of jeans,” says Saraf Kothari. But apart from these newfound uses, the allure of exuberant, larger-than-life fashion lies in its ability to buoy our spirits. “Dressing up is a form of self-love and a coping mechanism. When I don’t feel so great, I wear something fancy and it almost instantly uplifts my mood,” says Mumbai-based designer Rudraksh Dwivedi whose work is inspired by the extravagance and opulence of red-carpet attire. 

The staying power

As long as social media platforms exist, the inclination towards dressing up will probably persist. “Dressing up for the event itself is only part of the fun, the other part is dressing up to document the event on social media,” says Brandi Mikkelsen. Mohit Rai and Ridhi Bansal of maximalist label Itrh attest to this. “The more the reach of social media grows, the more our love for occasion wear will grow. The digital age makes people value art by exposing them to how much work goes into making something unique,” they add. However, actor and influencer Roshni Chopra highlights that fashion has the tendency to oscillate between extremes. For instance, the 1980s, frequently dubbed the decade of excess, was followed by a period where cargo pants and bucket hats reigned supreme. “Dressing up will remain a big trend for at least the next year but we never know what fashion throws our way after that,” concludes Chopra.

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