Is there an unconscious bias towards the design of women’s footwear?

In order to cater to the burgeoning demand for female footwear, are brands skimping on quality?

In 2019, Vinay Kesari, a Bengaluru-based lawyer with expertise in technology law and policy, took to social media to share a candid yet thought-provoking thread regarding the disparity in durability between women’s and men’s shoes despite both often falling within a similar price range, which was then documented on digital publication Medium. In his post, Kesari openly acknowledged the stark contrast in quality. He described men’s shoes as “solid,” with substantial soles and padding, designed to endure the rigours of the real world. In contrast, he humorously quipped that the women’s shoes his wife purchased seemed more suited for walking on “fairy dust and unicorn farts,” highlighting the perceptible fragility in the construction of women’s footwear. This thread was a notable reflection on the subtle but impactful ways in which gender-based distinctions can manifest in everyday products, extending to something as seemingly straightforward as shoes.

Opening up the conversation

As of the latest numbers from Statista, the Indian footwear market boasts a substantial size, estimated at approximately US$23 billion. Notably, this market exhibits a commendable growth rate, with a CAGR of around seven per cent. What’s particularly striking is the impressive performance of the women’s footwear segment, which stands out as one of the fastest-growing categories, growing at an even higher CAGR of 11 per cent.

Despite this demand for female-geared footwear in India, do women end up paying a higher premium for shoes?

Nishant Kanodia, founder of homegrown shoe brand SKO, points out that the cost of women’s footwear is notably higher than that of men’s, but this discrepancy depends on the specific product. “The higher costs for women’s shoes are partly attributed to the variety available, including flats, platforms, block heels, wedges, and more. These styles are often handmade, and the level of artistry and skill required in their production is generally greater than what’s needed for men’s shoes and sandals,” he says. 

The discomfort tag

Chaiti Roy, a brand consultant based in Mumbai, has noticed a rather troubling trend in her shoe-shopping experiences over the years. Despite having accumulated at least 60 pairs of shoes, she reveals that her expenses on shoes exceed that of her husband. However, the disappointing aspect is that the shoes she purchases don’t tend to last long. “I pay a premium for shoes, averaging at least ₹ 2,000 per pair. But they don’t hold up well. Most of them become flimsy after just 4-5 wears, and the heels wear out too. My husband spends about the same on his shoes, but they last much longer. It’s frustrating,” she laments.

Amey Singh from New Delhi, whose family formerly ran a shoe manufacturing business called Xylo Manufacturing Ltd., observes that most women he knows tend to be more dissatisfied with their footwear than men, even though they may not necessarily prioritise comfort over functionality. According to him, this dissatisfaction can be attributed to ill-fitting proportions and other quality-related issues.

Singh’s statement matches the now popular “shrink it and pink it” phrase in the realm of product creation, particularly when it comes to designing products for women. This phrase encapsulates the prevailing practice of taking products originally designed for men and simply reducing their size while adding stereotypically feminine colours like pink. However, this approach often fails to consider the unique needs and preferences of women.

Is there a gender bias?

In the best-case scenario, this practice can be dismissive and patronising, reinforcing gender stereotypes. In the worst-case scenario, it can have serious consequences, especially when the shoe design doesn’t account for critical differences in anatomy or requirements, potentially leading to discomfort, inconvenience, or even safety hazards. This highlights the importance of designing products that genuinely cater to the diverse and distinct needs of all consumers, regardless of their gender.

A 2009 study conducted by the National Center for Biotechnology Information (NCBI) supports the idea that the choice of footwear can significantly impact foot health, particularly in women. The study found that women who had worn good-quality shoes in the past “were 67 per cent less likely to report hind-foot pain, after adjusting for age and weight." However, in men, the study did not identify a significant association between foot pain, regardless of location, and their choice of shoewear. This difference is possibly because fewer than two per cent of the men in the study were found to wear “bad” shoes.

Men’s footwear primarily revolves around flat styles such as formal brogues, oxfords, loafers, and sneakers. In this context, the risk factor is relatively lower compared to women’s high heels. With the latter, the stakes are higher. A manufacturer who compromises on quality or lacks sufficient quality control may use subpar materials and fail to meet the required standards for arch support and heel height in high-heeled shoes.

High heels demand a level of precision and attention to detail, especially concerning the arch of the foot. Several components play a crucial role in ensuring the safety and comfort of high-heeled footwear. For instance, a shank, which is a metal component, is placed at the arch of the shoe to provide support while walking. If the shank is not properly positioned, if the heel placement is incorrect, or if the arch’s height and shape do not align with the wearer’s foot, it can be harmful.

“It’s essential to recognise that people have varying arch types, including flat feet and high arches. As a result, individuals should be particularly conscious and discerning when purchasing high-heeled shoes to ensure that the footwear is comfortable and supportive. Ill-fitting or poorly designed high heels can have adverse effects on the wearer’s skeletal system and overall well-being,” says Singh. 

Down to the brass tacks

Lucknow-based shoe designer Aeshaa Gupta, who has previously worked with Bata India Ltd. as well as with one of the leading Indian women’s shoe export houses - Leiner shoes Pvt. Ltd., Noida, for their homegrown (women’s) shoe brand Vanilla Moon, acknowledges this prejudice. For Gupta, during her undergraduate course in shoe design at FDDI Noida, it became clear that there’s a prevailing bias towards focusing on men’s designs and footwear, while women’s footwear often receives less attention and expertise in education and training.

“This discrepancy in emphasis on men’s and women’s footwear may be attributed to a historical bias that undervalues or sidelines women’s fashion and design. If the education and training in the field of shoemaking do not adequately cover the diverse and specific needs of women’s footwear, it can hinder the development of the industry in the country,” she says.

The technicalities

When it comes to the technical aspects of manufacturing women’s shoes, Gupta says it’s not overly intricate. However, the primary reason for the limited prominence of women’s shoe designers, particularly in regions like Agra and Kanpur, can be traced back to the deeply ingrained patriarchy within society. The shoemaking industry predominantly revolves around leather, which has historically been associated with masculinity rather than femininity. Moreover, she adds, the labour force in these factories is predominantly male, further contributing to the male-dominated nature of the industry. 

“A woman entering such a factory or ‘karkhana’ may experience a sense of discomfort, almost as if she were an unwelcome guest. Many women who feel uncomfortable in such an environment may opt not to pursue careers in this field, leading to a noticeable absence of female representation. In fact, if only men are primarily involved in operating the industry, they often lack the fashion-oriented perspective necessary for diversifying the market,” says Gupta. 

The only notable difference between both styles lies in the time required for manufacturing, Gupta tells The Established. The exception arises when producing heels, as this involves an additional, highly technical procedure. “In the context of Indian brands that manufacture heels, it’s important to note that they predominantly use common shoe lasts,” she says, adding that understanding the concept of “lasts” in shoemaking is integral to our discussion. Lasts are essentially the core of the matter at hand. When crafting a shoe, it must conform to the shape of our feet. To achieve this, a shoe must be built around a model or replica of an anatomical foot. Originally, lasts were constructed from wood or metal, but today, they are typically made from plastic.

“These plastic lasts serve as moulds, resembling the shape of a foot, and the shoe’s outer covering, whether it’s fabric or leather, is wrapped around them. This wrapping process involves various techniques, including cementing and stitching, and there are numerous other construction methods,” she says. 

Now, as the karigars work with these replicas of our feet, it’s crucial to comprehend that the shape of the last dictates the shoe’s characteristics. The roundness or pointedness of the toe, along with the chosen heel height, profoundly influences the final product. In the case of flat-soled shoes, the process is relatively straightforward, with a sole attached to the bottom. However, when crafting heels, the complexity increases in proportion to the heel’s height. The last must accommodate the desired heel height, and the attachment is secured with nails, necessitating specialised machinery. It’s worth noting that the quality of this attachment is critical, as poor-quality work results in rejection.

“This complexity and the need for specific equipment deter many from entering the field of women’s shoe manufacturing. Additionally, there is a substantial investment required, especially for those opting to produce high heels, which are less commonly worn in India. Many individuals prefer safer options like platforms or wedge heels due to their lower complexity, but these choices involve higher investment costs. The wide array of shapes in women’s shoes adds to the overall expenses,” explains Gupta.

Pricing shoes

When establishing pricing strategies for women’s footwear, Neha Kumthekar, co-founder and managing director at Oceedee, says two key factors influence their decision. “Firstly, ensuring that the unit economics are favourable is paramount. Secondly, the complexity of the design plays a significant role. Over time, we’ve discovered that designing a collection with approximately 80 per cent of commercially viable styles—such as mules, sliders, and classic block heels—is key to maximising revenue per collection,” she says. The remaining 20 per cent allows for experimentation with new colours, unique details, or more intricate patterns like gladiator sandals, which may appeal to niche markets. As the collection progresses, the price range extends from low to high, accommodating more complex and higher-end designs.

In terms of the economy and inflation, the brand’s procurement strategy is mindful of being a made-to-order business. “We carefully plan material procurement to avoid excess inventory and excessive waste. Data analysis has been instrumental in this aspect, helping us to make strategic decisions to ensure profitability,” she says.

Kumthekar admits that the choice of material, be it leather or fabric, is a pivotal factor in determining footwear costs for men and women variants. In particular, for women’s leather shoes, the cost varies depending on the shoe style. For instance, closed-toe shoes typically require less leather compared to designs like mules, evening shoes, or strappy sandals, which consume more material due to their intricate designs. In contrast, men’s shoes, with their predominantly standardised silhouettes like loafers, tend to use a consistent amount of material within their category.

“Sizing also exerts a significant influence. To illustrate, if we consider a standard men’s size as the baseline, such as a 43, women’s sizes are generally smaller. Consequently, the material usage increases with the larger sizes, leading to cost considerations. Men’s shoe production often involves more consistent material usage both in terms of style and sizing, which affects the overall cost dynamics,” she says, adding that the scenario, therefore, is more challenging for women on average when it comes to purchasing footwear. 

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