How have the wardrobes of NRIs evolved in recent times?

The Non-Resident Indians that we’ve been seeing on screen of late incorporate some of the coolest Indian labels into their wardrobes with ease. Is this an accurate representation of their style in real life?  

Fans of Never Have I Ever will be able to give you many reasons why they love the coming-of-age comedy. Their lists will often include the carefully curated closet of Dr. Nalini Vishwakumar–dermatologist and protagonist Devi Vishwakumar’s strict, immigrant mother. In the recent third season of the show, Nalini, who is played by actor Poorna Jagannathan, is seen in beautiful brocade dresses from Raw Mango, pleated button-downs from Bodice, elegant saris from Anita Dongre and chic kurtas from Ikai by Ragini Ahuja. She effortlessly wears a cool crop of Indian labels not just for occasions but also for everyday activities and this gives rise to a few questions: Is what we see on screen an accurate representation of what Indians abroad dress like? Has the role that the country’s designers play in the wardrobes of non-resident Indians (NRIs) changed? If yes, what can this evolution be attributed to? We asked NRIs from the fashion industry– those who helped procure Nalini’s much-talked-about outfits and other noteworthy names–for their thoughts.

The early influences

Before we dive into the current sartorial choices of NRIs, it is important to understand what shaped their style in the past. In Never Have I Ever, there are a few scattered flashbacks where Nalini is spotted in conventional Indian silhouettes which are markedly different from her outfits today. This not only represents a gradual transition but also, in a way, acknowledges that NRIs previously veered towards more traditional Indian fashion, a preference that was driven by several, very valid factors.

London-born, Dubai-based journalist Sujata Assomull explains that Bollywood, for NRIs, was one of the earliest fashion influences. “Traditionally, it was Bollywood that gave us access, and films like Hum Aapke Hai Koun (1994) were references for how to dress. I distinctly remember the purple sari which Madhuri Dixit wore [in the film]. People would go to Southall and try to emulate it themselves,” she says.

Deeya Khemlani, one of the three stylish sisters behind influencer-loved label Izaak Azanei, shares similar insights. “Films can be an extremely powerful tool in opening up a category of style to an international audience. For instance, director Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s films typically showcased the more traditional pieces and that can be really impactful for the NRI audience,” she adds. 

If it wasn’t Bollywood movies, NRIs, back in the day, would turn to magazines for references. But the publications that were popular then didn’t have too much to offer in terms of fashion. “There weren’t any fashion magazines. You were looking at Filmfare or Stardust which had references from films, and even when Indian fashion magazines started coming up they initially focused on international fashion. It wasn’t until a lot later that India had fashion week and contemporary design gained momentum,” says Assomull. This limited exposure coupled with an initial lack of contemporary clothing from the country’s designers is what led NRIs to associate fashion from India with traditional occasion-wear alone. 

High exposure 

If you look closely, you’ll find that this perception is changing because the sources of inspiration that NRIs have are no longer few and far between. One does not have to plan frequent trips to India–or even flip through the pages of magazines–to know which trends are picking up pace in the country. “Like anywhere else, the rise of social media has changed how Indians in North America shop for Indian fashion. We now have access to thousands of different outfits and can see what’s in style at any given point of time,” says Natasha Walia of Toronto-based Live The Collective, a personal shopping and styling service, which showcases a strong mix of Indian designers on its website and Instagram account. 

Other than the efforts made by brands and business owners, influencers and celebrities with an NRI following are also creating awareness about a different category of Indian labels internationally. Actor Neetu Kapoor, for example, is familiarising an older audience with fashion from India that’s so much more than just saris and lehengas. “My mother’s generation looks to Neetu Kapoor for inspiration and that’s happened because of Kapoor’s social media. Through her, they are seeing that they can dress in fusion wear and it can be a part of their everyday life,” says Assomull.

Additionally, OTT platforms are emerging as an extremely influential medium. According to Payal Parija, the Dallas-based co-founder of popular fashion blog High Heel Confidential, the content we consume there allows for a diverse, less-dated depiction of how NRIs dress. “What is amazing is that through shows like Never Have I Ever or movies like Wedding Season (2022), we are getting to see different Indian labels on screen instead of just generic designs,” she says. Sarina Siddhanti, one half of the duo behind Riya Collective, the platform which sourced many of the looks seen on Nalini, attests to this. “We only know what we see. Growing up, our parents left India with an image of what Indian clothing is and when we went back for trips we continued buying those things. Today, Nalini showcases that Indian clothing is so different from what we all grew up thinking of it as. The more that we can show that, the more people get inspired,” she says, highlighting that while Nalini might not represent what NRIs wear in reality just yet, she is instrumental in exposing them to the plethora of possibilities that Indian labels present. 

All access 

However, a shift isn’t prompted by exposure alone; access is just as important. Most major cities across the globe are now home to multi-designer stores that stock Indian labels (Pernia’s Pop-Up Shop in London, Studio East6 in Chicago and Sanskrit in Hong Kong, to name a few) or have pop-ups coming to them, for instance, the recently concluded Dhoom Dhaam Trunk Show brought varied designers from India to Dubai. In addition to these physical spaces, many Indian e-commerce websites have started delivering internationally. There are personalised platforms too, such as Siddhanti’s Riya Collective, which work hard towards offering their clients hassle-free access. “It has a lot to do with accessibility. Even if you do discover a brand on Instagram, it might be difficult to get the piece of clothing in your hand through a shopping or payment method that you trust. At Riya Collective, we help customers solve this pain point about how to acquire the clothing,” explains Siddhanti.  

The current state of affairs   

The evident increase in terms of access and exposure is driving up demand for Indian labels in other areas of an NRI’s life, which go beyond festivals and weddings. “In the United States, I see a huge demand for clothing that feels less traditional. We have customers that we’re styling for red carpet events who have been restricted to American designers from Bloomingdale’s in the past but are now excited to showcase their culture and heritage through the designers that we can make available to them,” says Siddhanti. However, while NRIs are opening up to the idea of non-traditional Indian labels for important events, they still haven’t been able to wholeheartedly embrace them in their daily lives. Inconsistent sizing, says Assomull, is one key deterrent. “The issue is that the sizing isn’t consistent within one designer. If it was, NRIs would find it easier to buy Indian labels,” she says.

Another common problem is the price point. Contemporary styles from Indian designers frequently carry hefty price tags and some NRIs haven’t warmed up to investing in them yet. “NRIs are more aware of Indian labels but mostly spend money on the ones that offer occasion-wear. If someone can get a top from an American label for 60 dollars, they won’t pay a whole lot more for that from an Indian label. We have yet to see Indian names that offer contemporary, everyday clothing make headway here,” says Parija, shedding light on the fact that Indian labels might need to do more to find a firm footing in an NRI’s everyday wardrobe, which already has a slew of affordable international brands competing for space.

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