How are India’s family-run fashion businesses staying relevant today?

Noteworthy names at the helm of centuries-old brands weigh in on how they tactfully tweak tradition

In recent times, we’ve frequently witnessed headlines highlighting the attempts of family-run fashion houses to keep up with cut-throat competition and cater to today’s consumer who is ready to lap up something new but is also aware and armed with questions. The efforts made by brands to stay ahead of the curve have ranged from routinely reimagining iconic styles (Fendi’s baguette bag has had more than a few makeovers) to looking outside the family for a fresh perspective (Raf Simons’ appointment as the co-creative director of Prada is only one such example). However, storied Italian brands aren’t the only ones in this race to stay relevant. Closer home, there are brands working on a formula that’s keeping them from stagnating. To learn more, we reached out to noteworthy names at the helm of centuries-old family businesses and here’s what we found.

Traditions with a twist

Alia Bhatt and South Korea’s first lady Kim Jung-sook are among the many names on Varanasi-based textile brand Ekaya's extensive client roster. This diverse and discerning following can be attributed to the brand’s ability to deftly put a twist on age-old traditions. The evidence is all over its Instagram page, which spotlights its latest offering. Ekaya’s new collection ‘Ambush’ reinterprets the ancient, wild life-inspired technique of Shikargah and also sees the sari find unlikely partners in bold, cropped blazers. The eagerness to experiment is not restricted to one collection but lies at the very core of the brand, which was founded by Palak Shah to breathe new life into her over 120-year-old family business.

However, is there such a thing as pushing the envelope too far? Are there certain traditions that are too sacred to be toyed and tampered with? “The challenge is, perhaps, to not bastardise traditions in the process of making them more adaptable to recent times. Some traditions are meant to be sustained. For example, I don’t think I would ever change the way a sari is draped. For me, it’s more about experimenting with a motif and the fabric texture. I also present the fabric in a new light and use it to create different silhouettes but the essence always remains,” says Shah who has previously used handwoven fabrics to create bespoke wedding gowns as well as a ready-to-wear line featuring separates such as co-ord sets, organza shirts and skirts.

For Roli Mehra, co-founder of Roliana, experimenting is about enhancing, not eroding, the essence. Her brand, an offshoot of the century-old Roshan Lal Sarees Group, approaches change through the lens of this learning. “We noticed that people refused to wear the heavy and cumbersome fabrics that Benarasi weaves were originally identified with. So we reached out to weavers to take stock of the weaves that people stopped wearing because they were difficult to drape, unflattering or prickly. We then began experimenting by blending pure fabrics,” says Mehra, sharing the starting point of a series of experiments. “We blended tussar with khadi georgette to make tussar georgette, which tackles the roughness of tussar and the transparency of georgette. We also mixed tissue and georgette to reduce the stiffness of tissue and the flimsiness of georgette. It was crazy, like working in a laboratory,” adds Mehra on the blends, which, in Roliana’s signature style, featured finishing touches in the form of florals hand-painted by their in-house artists.

Coming together

Handing over the reins of a family business to the next generation is one way to bring in newness. Another sure-fire way to keep fresh ideas flowing is via collaborations. Case in point: Ekaya's growing list of collaborators. The brand, since its inception, has teamed up with the likes of designers Masaba Gupta, Ashdeen, Archana Rao, Abraham & Thakore and Play Clan. “Every designer brings a new way of looking at Indian textiles and teaches us something new,” says Shah. Collaborations, according to Mehra, have the added advantage of uncovering the versatility of textiles. “Benarasi textiles have so many layers and nuances. I feel collaborations peel back those layers. Additionally, collaborations assist in cross promoting to the audience of both brands involved,” she adds, highlighting that the coming together of two names can be instrumental in acquainting a new audience with the brand.

Crafting a conscience

The measures taken by brands aren’t just about altering their aesthetic. It’s no secret that relevance today is heavily reliant on a readiness to take on responsibility. Advaya, the source of Deepika Padukone’s wedding sari and in-house label of 600-year-old legacy brand House of Angadi, has been lauded for its linen-blended Kanjeevarams. The final result, which took close to 18 months to devise, not only combats the weave’s archaic associations with not-so-subtle shine and a certain heaviness but also has a longer life span and is kinder to the environment. However, the responsibilities of businesses today go beyond the planet and extend to the people who make it what it is. Ekaya currently empowers over 10,000 weavers and is committed to both preserving and sharpening their skill sets. “Down the road, I see my brand elevating our weavers to actual textile engineers,” says Shah.

Brick by brick

Then there are the demands of the digital age, which often involve a wholehearted embracing of e-commerce. Brands are now acutely aware of the need to invest time, energy and resources in building robust platforms, which deliver their products to doorsteps at destinations across the globe. Yet, many are of the opinion that an in-store experience is as, if not more, important. “I do urge every customer to come to the store because the experience of buying handloom textiles physically can’t be matched,” says Shah, whose brand has a physical presence in four states. Mehra is aligned to this school of thought and her thinking is reflected in the interiors of Roliana stores, which strive to keep the old-world charm of Benares alive. “When you come to Roliana, you come for an experience that’s reminiscent of old shops in the narrow lanes of Benares, where textiles were displayed on mattresses covered in crisp white sheets,” she says.

In addition to a lack of the experiential factor, e-commerce brings with it pressures such as tight timelines and large volumes, both of which don’t sit well with brands that take pride in crafting one-of-a-kind pieces. “We are unable to cope with an instant shopping culture. We won’t be able to deliver a made-to-order sari to you instantly, it takes time and is a process. This usually makes people move to options that are quicker but that’s a price we’re willing to pay. We also cannot deliver a piece of textile to you in bulk, nor can we create the exact same piece for you again. There will always be a tweak in the weave or a change in the stroke a brush leaves behind and frankly that’s what makes it our own. Selling it like hotcakes is not the idea. Handwoven is slow, it’s deliberate, it’s flawed and uniquely yours,” says Mehra of the elements that will continue to forge the foundation of her business in the future.

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