Does the GenNext showcase at FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week still hold relevance?

Launched in 2006, the GenNext component continues to be considered a prestigious launchpad to introduce new Indian designers to the world

What do Rahul Mishra, Masaba Gupta, Aneeth Arora, Kallol Datta, Nachiket Barve, Ruchika Sachdeva, Ujjawal Dubey and Kunal Rawal have in common? The designers all made their runway debuts with GenNext at Lakmé Fashion Week since the design talent discovery platform was launched back in 2006. Thirty-two seasons later, 275 designers have kickstarted their journeys through the programme. The current batch of GenNext at the upcoming FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week 2023 includes labels KoyToy, Hiro, KoAi and Rudraksh Dwivedi. 

Seventeen years later, what is it that continues to lend GenNext a sense of relevance? “It is still a huge platform to propel any business into the limelight. It’s fashion’s equivalent of overnight stardom for designers,” feels Aparna Badlani, consulting creative director at multi-designer chain Aza. “GenNext brands are noticed more because industry insiders know they have been through the grind to come out very refined,” adds Badlani, who has also been on the GenNext jury in the past. 

Designer Nachiket Barve, who graduated from its third batch (alongside designers like Rawal and Arora) in 2007, continues to attend every season of the show if he’s in the city. “Being a part of this show brings legitimacy. You get to meet buyers, the press and important stakeholders, all under one roof. And I received all of it when I launched my label,” he says.

Cracking the GenNext Code 

What exactly does the selection and mentorship process entail? Anil Khosla, CEO of the International Institute of Fashion Design (INIFD)—which presents the coveted GenNext showcase—explains that designers are judged on the parameters of quality, design, innovation, marketability, originality, wearability and their ability to legitimately take their business to the next level. The finalists then gain access to an intensive and personalised mentorship programme for close to two months with the best in the business.

“It’s not just about one collection. The show is, in fact, a small part of the bigger picture here,” says industry veteran and GenNext mentor Sabina Chopra. From creative inputs to commercial viability and business strategy, a lot of one-on-one knowledge is imparted as a part of the designers’ upskilling process. All of this, alongside masterclasses by industry experts. Think about everything from traditional PR, media management, digital and influencer marketing, celebrity sourcing and more. “It’s about widening your experience of inhabiting the fashion world, which is not necessarily an easy industry to survive in,” adds Chopra.

When Barve made the cut for GenNext, it was in a very different world, one without social media. “Today, you can discover brands on your phone. Back then, even press channels were limited. So GenNext gave one’s career trajectory a boost, which could otherwise take years to establish,” he thinks back, adding that he managed to snag rack space in three stores as a result of the show, and it also got him his first client—Sonam Kapoor Ahuja. “It was national recognition without having to do multiple rounds of multiple stores,” he says. 

While the element of discovery prompts designers to apply even today, the platform—and industry—have evolved a great deal. “We’ve picked newbies and fresh graduates in the past. But the criteria have been tweaked over the years. We want applicants to have about three years of experience when they come to us. This is not a blank slate or a graduating class collection. We are helping brands make their debut in the very serious B2B world. It’s about the business of fashion,” says Chopra. 

What’s in it for me?

Kunaal Kyhaan, who presents Koytoy’s ‘Maharaja by the Bay’ collection this season, feels he’s taking back key industry insights—audience experience of his show being a major one—which could have taken a decade to master had he continued to work independently. Anugrah Chandra of KoAi attests to having honed clarity of vision of his designs while also realising the value of a strong marketing and PR strategy to create the right amount of buzz.

Somya Goyal, who launched her eponymous label in 2019, made her runway debut with GenNext last October, and worked closely with Chopra to understand pricing, brand identity and representation of her label outside India. The GenNext roadshow organised right after—taking the brands to key cities via pop-ups at leading stores—provided her great exposure too, she says. Goyal’s advice is to pick the right season for your brand. “If you’re not based in the city of the showcase, travelling with your team is an expense you will need to bear. But it’s a cost that did open gates for us.”    

The way forward 

Ask Chopra how the programme can evolve, and she talks about wanting to put a greater focus on the business component of education. “I also want brands to understand that not everyone will like your clothes. But they should be able to recognise it. Finding your authentic voice is an important lesson we are imparting. Your work changes once you hone in on it,” she explains. Chopra and Badlani both hope to fill the void of a noteworthy occasion wear designer in the coming batches. “Is adding a twist to the anarkali the only way to stand out in Indian clothes? I don’t buy into that. Every season, I want an Indian wear brand, but we haven’t found an exciting one yet,” adds Chopra. 

Badlani feels the GenNext designers who make it in the long run versus those who don’t are the ones who understand the dynamics of running a business rather than just floating a product out in an already cluttered sea. “It’s important to grow gradually. Take it a step at a time instead of trying to be everywhere at once. The latter will only lead to burnout and we’ve seen far too many labels succumb to that.”

Also Read: Meet the new generation of designers changing the Indian fashion industry

Also Read: 7 Bangladeshi designers who are making a mark in the world of fashion

Also Read: Why Indian designers are getting into bed with corporates