Can India’s legacy designers keep up with Gen Z shoppers?

With the youth comprising a large percentage of India's population, veteran fashion designers are fast evolving to capture their attention

As India Couture Week wrapped up in New Delhi earlier this month, some of the key takeaways included silhouettes that were very much in tune with what the next generation of shoppers would lean towards. Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna closed their show with a silver embellished lehenga—rather, a flowy skirt with a thigh-high slit and a cut-out from the waist paired with a sparkling bralette and cape. Elsewhere, Rimzim Dadu reimagined a golden lehenga as a high-waisted skirt with a slit, pairing it with a golden bustier featuring an exaggerated leaf motif. Meanwhile, Rahul Mishra’s lehengas had pockets. When one thinks couture, it's hard to imagine such unconventional silhouettes—that too on a showstopper.  

The evolution of Indian wear has been a long time coming, given that, as of 2021, Gen Z and millennials make up 52 per cent of the country’s population compared to the global average of 47 per cent. Indian designers have been fast to act on roping in the next generation of shoppers. "The spirit of Gen Z has inspired the plot of my recent collections. Young shoppers today seek a blend of aesthetic style and self-expression. They crave modern spins on classics," says designer Manish Malhotra, who launched his namesake couture label in 2005. 

The Established attempts to understand how Indian luxury-wear designers are trying to target the next generation of shoppers.  

Bending the rules

"Something that I look for when shopping from any designer, including veteran Indian designers, is clothes that feel timeless and classic but still feel young—I am 25 and want to dress my age [and not look older]," says Aria Parikh, merchandiser at Ensemble. 

For Malhotra, his recent ‘Diffuse’ line is a tribute to Gen Z. “Their refusal to be boxed in, and their courage to bend the rules and rewrite norms, resonated deeply with me. I wanted to craft something that not just dresses but celebrates them, with its gender-fluid styles, conscious pricing and my signature embellishments," he explains. Malhotra's bridal couture show this summer showcased a black tuxedo-style kurta with pants, a white sari paired with an exaggerated ruffle bolero, and an iridescent taffeta balloon skirt. 

Beyond bridal wear

However, when it comes to couture, customers still want to remain true to the traditional elements and legacy designers continue to provide that. "Indian designers depend on the wedding season for a chunk of their business. As most of these brides are Gen Z, designers are catering to them by adding a twist to classic silhouettes. For example, while Tarun Tahiliani does heavy bridal wear, he has also been doing some cool jumpsuits and concept saris that appeal to younger women and their mothers too." says fashion entrepreneur Pernia Qureshi Gilani. 

Additionally, designers no longer create entire collections around the bride alone—the bridal party that includes family and close friends makes up a chunk of the buyers. "I think a lot of designers have now become smart about extending their collections to make sure that the bridesmaids, friends of the bride and other people attending also have options that are equally unique," adds Qureshi. 

 Best of both worlds

Younger labels are also finding more exciting ways to modernise Indian wear. "Many [of the] looks at couture week consisted of silhouettes that speak to a new generation of women; for instance, the tiny stylised blouses that cater to a younger audience," explains Parikh. 

Meanwhile, Delhi-based label Qbik's underwired bralette has found its way into the wardrobes of many fashion-forward youngsters. From influencers to celebrities,  the blouse became a hit on social media. "I think every designer, in some way or the other, is making collections that are inclusive enough, targetting the budget and styling expectations of Gen Z," says Vrinda Sachdev, co-founder of Qbik. 

With younger customers wanting to recycle garments, separates allow more versatile styling options. Designer Anamika Khanna’s line AK-OK comprising price-conscious garments and versatile pieces like lungi skirts, draped blazers, and silk kurtas and pants has proven to be a hit among the younger crowd. " Khanna's AK-OK is great for the Gen Z market. With deconstructed denim, shorts, skirts and other separates, it lends a streetwear vibe that is perfect for smaller occasions," adds Parikh.

"While dressing Gen Z, I've learned that the outfit must be comfortable, well-fitted and, most importantly, is true to their age," says Arpita Mehta, whose fresh take on Indian wear has garnered a customer base that includes actors Suhana Khan and Khushi Kapoor.  

Engaging marketing tactics

What has also evolved is how legacy designers market their products to the younger generation. From big-budget social media marketing campaigns to celebrity sightings, influencer collaborations and even product placement in TV shows, designers engage in multiple ways to capture the attention of the younger audience. For example, the much-talked-about second season of Made In Heaven had a special appearance by Sabyasachi Mukherjee in the first episode, with multiple scenes shot at his boutique. Furthermore, the episode had an entire shoot sequence as part of the bride's hen party—the bride and her friends were dressed in savvily-styled Sabyasachi ensembles.

"Marketing to this tech-savvy generation requires a fresh approach. Social media, for them, is a modern-day runway, so it's not only about selling an item [of clothing] but crafting an immersive experience. This understanding led us to fashion films, candid behind-the-scenes looks and genuinely engaging content," adds Malhotra. 

However, not all designers are able to effortlessly engage potential younger clientele. "While they cater to the Gen Z audience, their marketing needs to catch up. If you look at many designers' Instagram pages, it's an ode to the bride, but if you look at their lookbooks, there are so many non-bridal outfits. This needs to be communicated better," explains Parikh.

Ultimately, luxury Indian fashion, especially collections created by veteran designers, continues to be associated with weddings. And while designers are getting innovative with their garments, the reality is that they still need to maintain a classic appeal so that the garments can be worn multiple times or passed down. "I feel when it comes to legacy designers, they don't have to worry so much about 'shaking things up' in terms of design—Indian wear is pretty much always timeless. Additionally, I feel each designer that has built a legacy is also known for something specific," says entrepreneur Tania Shroff. 

Sabyasachi has been operating his brand since 1999, Manish Malhotra recently  celebrated 18 years of his label, and Tarun Tahiliani has been in the business since 1987. Cut to the present, and they are still among the most sought-after designers in the country by women of all ages—Gen Z girls and their mothers. It's clear they're headed in the right direction. 

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