Are we ready for the return of low-rise jeans?

We sought the help of stylists and designers to investigate whether low-rise jeans are welcome in our wardrobes again

For years now, I’ve re-watched episodes of Friends not just for the feel-good storylines but also for the relatable fashion that seems to resurface even decades after the show came to an end. I love that Rachel’s denim dungarees, Monica’s waistcoats and Phoebe’s colourful knits are all having a moment but the recent resurgence of one item that makes an appearance in the later seasons brings up mixed emotions. Low-rise jeans–which were a big hit both on-screen and off-screen in the early 2000s (everyone from Paris Hilton to Eva Longoria owned a pair)–are something that I wasn’t sad to see go out of style. As someone with a fuller lower body and the occasional food baby, I struggled to squeeze into the silhouette suited to much skinnier frames through my teenage years. So when mom jeans and boyfriend jeans were declared cool, I quickly befriended their high, flattering waistbands and never looked back, until recently when I noticed that my Instagram feed was awash with evidence of low-rise jeans staging a comeback. To better understand what's different about them this time around and the likely length of their reign, I reached out to industry insiders who had some very interesting insights to offer.

The highs and lows

Internationally, low-rise jeans already appear to have won the approval of countless celebrities and influencers. While Bella Hadid and Hailey Bieber are known to team classic blue versions with crop tops and sneakers for casual outings, Kim Kardashian has been seen turning to roomier, distressed pairs with bodysuits peeking out on her travels. For those taking notes and in favour of the fashion flashback, there’s no dearth of options to choose from–both heavyweight and high-street labels are increasingly serving up the style. The Spring/Summer 2022 shows of Missoni, Molly Goddard and MSGM saw models walk the ramp in ultra-low, almost floor-grazing jeans, and the silhouette seems to have trickled down into the collections of brands like Zara and H&M.

However, closer home, low-rise jeans have received a lukewarm response. Many local labels still can’t say with certainty that the trend will take off in India. “Everything old is new again and the return of low-rise jeans is exciting but the demand for them in India is not that high yet. Some people no longer see them as exclusive to thin bodies but there are still quite a few who aren’t confident enough to wear them. High-waisted jeans continue to be our bestsellers,” says Madina Kirpalani, co-founder of Off Duty, a brand from Mumbai that has a vast and varied collection of jeans.

Additti Jain of young New Delhi-based brand Iki Chic has similar learnings to share. “The comfort that high-rise jeans offer while also being stylish is something that people aren’t ready to give up. Our most popular styles are baggy boyfriend jeans, mom jeans and straight wide-legged jeans. Their success, in part, can be attributed to the diverse body types in India,” she explains.

The next leg

While reservations regarding the unrealistic body standards that low-rise jeans often represent are relevant when it comes to tighter, second-skin iterations, they don’t necessarily apply to today’s versions, which are markedly different from their predecessors. The styles doing the rounds now are visibly more voluminous and take lessons from the loungewear we’ve come to love during the pandemic. If you look up any of the aforementioned examples that are gaining popularity internationally, you'll be presented with images of oversized bottoms accompanied by features like elasticated waistbands and exaggerated hemlines which make them friendlier to different body types. “While earlier this was a midriff-baring trend restricted to a specific body type, today, the slouchy, wider-legged silhouettes are far more inclusive and wearable. You can also style them with a cardigan, a loose shirt or a blazer. This is a more conservative approach but it still gives a cool, nonchalant look,” says Aaina Mahajan, founder of MellowDrama–a brand that delivers dressed-up denim.

In addition to the latest avatars being more inclusive, adaptable and compatible with separates that go beyond a torso-baring top, there’s another factor that could fuel the rise of low-slung jeans in the future. “People are increasingly embracing their bodies. There is a growing sense of confidence and willingness to experiment,” says Mahajan. Stylist and fashion consultant Daniel Franklin attests to this shift in mindset that celebrates, rather than conceals, curves. “I feel in the past there was an idealised manner in which curvy bodies needed to be dressed. However, today, there is a greater emphasis on loving your curves and flaunting them too. Models like Paloma Elsesser and Jill Kortleve offer great examples of low-rise jeans action,” adds Franklin, who suggests homegrown brands Leh Studios and Polite Society for anyone looking to purchase a new pair. But for those who have now amassed enough reasons to test the waters but not take the plunge, there’s a simpler starting point. “I recommend buying a pair of old or second-hand jeans in a size bigger than yours and having it resized to sit right on the hip bone. Sarojini Nagar [in New Delhi] is my go-to,” says Franklin, leaving us with a cheap and cheerful DIY alternative that’s perfect for sceptical first-timers.

Also Read: The shocking environmental cost of making a pair of jeans

Also Read: Why co-ord sets are here to stay

Also Read: Meet the 20-year-olds selling on Instagram